Here is a list of my problems.
1. Bogging when i step on the pedal.
2. My car constantly reads cold.(engine stays cold, doesn't warm up)
3. My whole car rattles when i drive.
4. Rough idle (jumpy)

need help asap

 

Sounds like you've got more than one thing going on there. Have you looked under the hood yet?

 

without knowing more we can only guess.

1. im not sre never had that problem someone else will chime in.

2.same as one but i guess. broken t-stat?

3. check all your bolts you might just have some loose bolts and nuts flying around.(im optemistic arnt i LOL)

4.vac leak, or TPS problem

 

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=50&co=1&vi=1. See if this helps.

 

Check you fuelfilter
check your timing
check compression

i dont know about the temperature problem though.

 

1) Bogging when you step on the pedal could be caused by vacuum leak, bad tps, bad maf, clogged fuel filter, injectors not working properly, bad grounds, there are a number of issues that could cause this.

2) It sounds like a thermostat problem. It could either be the tstat needs to be replaced, or the wiring is jacked up. It's important to have this fixed asap so your you can tell whether or not you are going to overheat. Being that your car is a 1990, it is an S5. The S5 temp gauge sucks, so you're better off getting an aftermarket one that is much more reliable.

3 and 4 are contributed to the problem you're having in number one. The engine bucks around when any of the aforementioned problems occur. You should also check your motor mounts, tranny mounts, and diff mounts while you're at it.

 

first of all, what mods you got on?

 

the temp problem could be a thermostat jammed open, or a bad temp sensor
as for the bogging/ bad idle, it could be a bad maf or a tps sensor

 

or you just need to adjust the TPS

 

have you diagnosed these issues at fc3spro's problems and symptoms? i am noticing the low post....

 

im gonna have these problems checked out and see if we can figure this out. =]

 

My car doesn't even start now... does it mean its blown?

 

check the compression

 

i have just noticed that when i try to start the car white smoke comes out of the exhaust. from what i read this means i have a blown seal right?

 

You really need to provide more information. I'm just getting into this tread and man, I've got so many ways to tell you to run right now..... I really want to help but we really need more info to direct you in the right direction. What started, what got worse, what have you checked so far, etc.

 

you need to provide more info and alot of the info people gave you is BS!
And yes your car is probably blown if it dosent start.

 

Sounds like your in the same boat as me!
Blown rotary in a FC body.

Look into the V8 swap kit, www.grannysspeedshop.com

Thats what I'm doing, I cant get a straight answer for any of my questions about the rotary, so I'll swap in a more dependable engine, and one that I know how to work on.

 

Definitely need more information, also search on how to do a compression test and do one if you can or look at ordering the stuff so you can do. If you see your numbers are good, people can slowly start narrowing down the list.

Hope everything works out in your favor.

~Colin



Going to hi-jack the thread for a second to respond to this.

I can understand wanting a motor you know how to work on, but their are a crap load of people that know a rotary engine like you most likely know v8s. They may not always be the joe blow around the corner that owns a shop or work out of their garage, but they do exist and can answer almost any question you throw at them. Just like any other engine learning them is frustrating but rewarding and fun.

The rotary is a reliable engine, a lot of the people that blow theirs would have destroyed a comparable sized piston engine under the same circumstances, I.E high boost applications, no maintenance, etc etc.

It just really irks me when people say things like that. I like V8 engines and I even thought about buying a T2 shell to put one in to help teach my wife how to work on cars. Plus it would be a fun car to drive around. However, I'm not going to go into other peoples threads advocating that their engine sucks and the support/follow for the engine is lacking so go to *insert engine name/code here*.

 

I heard that. What is the deal. I didn't know how to work on my RX when I bought it. Bought the FSM, which you don't even need to buy now, and learned how to work on it. Rotary is way easier to work on than a V8. Less moving parts and such a reliable design now. I never thought I could do a rebuild on mine. It was amazingly easy and rewarding.

But lets stick to the main reason for this thread, get us more info so we can give the proper fix.

 

I didnt mean to say I did not like Rotary engines, all I meant was I would rather have a V8 in there.
No sensors, hardly any wiring, easy maintenance, parts are easy to find, cheap to buy, upgrades and performance parts are not limited to a few companies.

I have the 13b rotary on the floor in my garage, and I am thinking about dismantling it completly, then I will know a little about them. I might junk it after I am done tearing it down, but then again I might also rebuild it , or sell it as scrap.

Either way sorry if I made anyone mad, but I think the V8 will also give a lot more power for the type of driving I plan for this car.

 

The very first thing to do in a case like this is check the coolant temp some other way.
A running engine- especially when standing still (no airflow)- produces a lot of heat and typical failure mode is to run too hot, not too cold.

If you have a S4, the water temp gauge normally indicates @1/4 to 1/3 when fully warmed up...if you're not aware of this, it may just appear to be running "cold".

Feel the upper rad hose, the radiator core and the oil cooler- if the engine is running and they are all cold, you have something seriously weird going on.

Does your heater put out hot air?

 

sry i've been busy... the FC has a mind of its own.... it starts when it wants to start. sry not into that V8 thing. its a mazda and has to stay a mazda rotary FTW. It seems like the second rotar is blown. taht what i concluded.. all i need is a rebuild or a swap for TII... can anyone recommand a place in socal 91748 area???

 

You're lucky, there's tons of shops in socal:

Lucky 7
Mazdatrix
Tripoint
Neptune Speed
Rotory Reliability and Racing
JRX
Integrated Performance
Rotory Shack

Just to name a few...