Titanium Rat

I did a search but found nothing that could help.

My 87 runs ok AFTER she warms up,,,,,,and idles ok at 900. When i am driving and push in the clutch while slowing down to get ready to stop it will die (rpms fall slowly but end up passing my idle speed and just drop to zero). That is at higher speeds (25 on up) and in any condition.

I usually just push in the clutch and use brakes to slow car down to come to a stop ,,,,,now if i down shift from 5th, to 4th,3rd 2nd to first and keep her in gear till i roll to a stop then right before i stop hit the clutch in the car wont stall,,,it will just drop rpms down to 500-600 but keeps running, then the rpms will slowly rise back to 900. Ive been through my repair manual trying to trouble shoot this all day. I can test run the car up and down the driveway in first and it wont happen,,,,,,,,just when im out on the road

what CAN cause this????

here are some things i do know and have checked or noticed

the clutch is disengaging like it should

after cars warms there is a bad hesitation around 3500

i have good compression 94 front 96 back

tps is set at 1000ohms (at idle), when plunger is pushed in it goes to 0 ohms smoothly

cant find any vac leaks

i have good fuel pressure

car idles Great after warm-up

good strong spark (the timing is at factory specs)
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here is some other info that might help some of you diagnose this


on a cold start engine starts for a second then dies it does this 3-4 times before it will start and stay running,,,after starting it will pulsate between 1500 and 1700,,,,,you cant give the car gas till it warms a little or it will cut off,,,,,,and last but least it runs very rich at startup.
( i just put there problems here to help diagnose my main problem,,,not expecting anwers to these)
thanks
Brent

WAYNE88N/A

TPS shouldn't go to zero, IIRC...I quit testing mine using resistance readings a long time ago, a sure-fire way to test the TPS system is to put a meter (on voltage) on the TPS input pin at the ECU, and take her for a drive...You'll see the whole range of voltage inputs, from WOT (about 3.7v) to idling down, or pedal lift (about 1v)...You can also do this check with the car in the driveway, key on (not running), by slowly pushing & releasing the peddle...Not only does this check out your TPS with juice flowing through it, but also checks out the entire wiring run to the ECU...

Sounds like you need to test out your BAC system too, but if you're idling at 900, it might not even be "kicking in" yet...

Also sounds like maybe your rear rotor housing ground needs to be looked at & cleaned up (the hesitation part, anyway). This is the main ground for your ECU, and if it's dirty/corroded, it's going to affect your performance...Gotta pull the UIM to really get to it...

Titanium Rat

ok,,,thanks wayne,,,,,ill try that stuff today,,see if that helps. then post reply

Titanium Rat

tested the tps at the connector plug (5 inches from sensor) put the red prong on the 3rd terminal (not parallel to the other 2) and the black prong on the right terminal (if your looking at the plug in the direction with the 3rd terminal on bottom and the other two on top)
i got 1 volt on idle and 2.5 at wide open throttle. when i adjusted that (about 2.5 turns from where i had it adjusted the ohm way) it made the rpms climb,,,,so i had to adjust the idle down.

that helped my problem with the bad hesitation (doesnt hesitate anymore) and helped a little with the cluch/stall problem,,,but she is still stalling,,,,,,,,,where is this ecu

even better what is a ecu,,,,,,,,,did a search but no one ever said what it stood for.
thanks for getting rid of my hesitation wayne!!!!!!!!!!

also whats a uim???

WAYNE88N/A

Sorry about that, man...The ECU is your "computer" that runs your ignition & fuel delivery, among other things. It's located under the carpet at the passenger foot area. Don't know which wires you were reading at the TPS plug there, but 2.5 is kinda low for WOT...The 1 volt at idle is more important at this point, however, so adjust it keeping this in mind...

UIM is upper intake manifold, which must be removed to access that ground at the rear rotor housing (unless you're ET and have long fingers). If your hesitation is fixed, don't worry about the ground for now, just keep it in mind...

If you have a Haynes or the factory service manual, check out your BAC system now for the stalling problems...Did you get your idle below 900?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

The TPS should go from 1k ohm to about 5.5kohm at most (WOT). Check your BAC or clean it for the stalling issue.

WAYNE88N/A

Just so you don't get confused, Titanium, Sonic's giving you resistance numbers, and I was giving you voltages...