need help
05-01-07, 10:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio
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need help
me and a buddy have been working on his 86 rx7 ...
it WAS a GTU, but it now has full T2 drivetrain minus the engine and ECU/wiring harness.
when the car last ran it had the stock motor in it, and it badly blew a coolant seal and the motor went shortly after that... so we followed the haynes manual and rebuilt a T2 engine we picked up from a buddy with all new seals and whatnot... wasn't too bad...
here's a few mods that have been done to the setup... the rebuilt engine has a Racing Beat header on it, straight thru exhaust with no cat/silencer. it is a 4-port engine (turbo) with n/a rotors. we got porting templates from atkins.. the intake was bridge ported and the exhaust was race ported.
the engine's OMP was disabled and unhooked, and we're running a synthetic 2-stroke oil 40:1 premix in the fuel tank.
and here's where the problems start.
now, minus us not having the throttle cable hooked up, that shouldn't keep the engine from starting. short of hooking up a compression gauge up to the motor and checking it, by my ear, the motor has very good even compression with good loud thumps coming out the tailpipe. i had heard from a friend to put a small amount of atf fluid into the trailing hole of each rotor housing just to help with the last little bit of compression, since the motor has yet to run. we bought brand new spark plugs and the wires are hooked correctly to the according coilpacks and we have a good hot spark, we are getting PLENTY of fuel... you can smell it if you crank the car for more than 5-10 seconds.
but you can crank and crank and crank it, and it never even tries to start, not even so much as a sputter. i'm very confused.
now i know the n/a engines were 6 port. the motor we put together is a 4-port with according intake manifold, and the n/a air meter, plus the emissions delete kit (can't remember where he ordered it from) which basically consists of a few block-off plates, and us plugging extra vaccuum hoses.
i'm not exactly sure if we're using the right ECU, or what the deal is.... i'd have to pull the carpet back and check the number on it, because i know mazda used several different variations in that car....
is it not starting because it was incorrectly ported ? did we time it wrong ? we followed the instructions EXACTLY as the book stated and it went together all too smooth.
so we're stuck between a rock and a hard place trying to figure out why this thing won't even attempt to start.
i'm dying to hear this ported 13b scream down the road with the RB header and straight exhaust.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIEATED!!!
thanks
Jacob
it WAS a GTU, but it now has full T2 drivetrain minus the engine and ECU/wiring harness.
when the car last ran it had the stock motor in it, and it badly blew a coolant seal and the motor went shortly after that... so we followed the haynes manual and rebuilt a T2 engine we picked up from a buddy with all new seals and whatnot... wasn't too bad...
here's a few mods that have been done to the setup... the rebuilt engine has a Racing Beat header on it, straight thru exhaust with no cat/silencer. it is a 4-port engine (turbo) with n/a rotors. we got porting templates from atkins.. the intake was bridge ported and the exhaust was race ported.
the engine's OMP was disabled and unhooked, and we're running a synthetic 2-stroke oil 40:1 premix in the fuel tank.
and here's where the problems start.
now, minus us not having the throttle cable hooked up, that shouldn't keep the engine from starting. short of hooking up a compression gauge up to the motor and checking it, by my ear, the motor has very good even compression with good loud thumps coming out the tailpipe. i had heard from a friend to put a small amount of atf fluid into the trailing hole of each rotor housing just to help with the last little bit of compression, since the motor has yet to run. we bought brand new spark plugs and the wires are hooked correctly to the according coilpacks and we have a good hot spark, we are getting PLENTY of fuel... you can smell it if you crank the car for more than 5-10 seconds.
but you can crank and crank and crank it, and it never even tries to start, not even so much as a sputter. i'm very confused.
now i know the n/a engines were 6 port. the motor we put together is a 4-port with according intake manifold, and the n/a air meter, plus the emissions delete kit (can't remember where he ordered it from) which basically consists of a few block-off plates, and us plugging extra vaccuum hoses.
i'm not exactly sure if we're using the right ECU, or what the deal is.... i'd have to pull the carpet back and check the number on it, because i know mazda used several different variations in that car....
is it not starting because it was incorrectly ported ? did we time it wrong ? we followed the instructions EXACTLY as the book stated and it went together all too smooth.
so we're stuck between a rock and a hard place trying to figure out why this thing won't even attempt to start.
i'm dying to hear this ported 13b scream down the road with the RB header and straight exhaust.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIEATED!!!
thanks
Jacob
05-01-07, 11:41 PM
#2
Make sure you stabbed the CAS correctly. The dot on the gear lines up with the ridge on the CAS housing. Make sure the yellow mark on the front pulley lines up with the pin. Also you can't use the n/a pressure sensor....big difference in calibration. You should also be using the correct t2 ECU. The n/a airflow sensor is calibrated differently than t2. Check for spark and that the plug wires are routed correctly. Double check grounds.