Rotory Nut

All right everyone, I have a question and some background info. I have looked through the archive and can not seem to find my answer. 1st the question in case you can answer it before reading further. Can I try the ATF trick on an engine that has not been ran in a long while? The history is this, I have an 86' 13B NA. The body has 100k on it and the 13b 160k. I bought this car with a seized motor. I bought another one that had been rolled for the engine. I drove this one in the shop! I swapped motors and got it to run but had to keep the either to it. A year went by and I got to it again to find a bad fuel pump. Still couldn't get it stated on its own. Another year went by, then I found a leak in the fuel line to the top injectors. I replaced this line lost interest. Another 2 years went by before I got on it again. This time I noticed another bad fuel pump and whn I replace it I sucked the old fuel out and replaced with good new fuel. Then I noticed only one plug getting wet. Found bad injectors and replaced with another set. Tried them on the outside of the manifold - everything looked good. Tried starting and only got less than 3 secs of running before it shut down. I burn't the starter tring futile attempts. Now 6 months later I have replaced the starter. I am down to my last 2 7's. One 1st gen with a bad motor and this second gen. I stripped all the parts I can think of. I thought of the AFM but I can't even get it started. Checked and rechecked all vacum lines. It stutters like it wants to start but I can't just seem to get it there. I think it has been sitting so long the seals are locked in their position losing compression. I want to try the ATF trick but am scared it may cause me other diagnostic touble. I do have a fuel cut out switch installed. Any ideas what to look for? It seems to hit off of starting fluid but I hate this stuff. I did change oil already.

Rotory Nut

ok just for kicks I pulled off the uim air inlet hose and had my son try starting while I applied the ether. It kicks like it wants to start but no start. I need to get a new can and charge the batt. I have a gut feeling that if I can get it running to where it warms up it will be fine. I am going to pull the plugs and replace them. Also i think i will pull the uim and pull all the injectors again and test them manually by holding them in place while my sone tries to start to make sure that nothing from the fuel tank has clogged them. How do you tell which injector goes in the upper craddles and which ones go to the lower ones? any advice?

Rotory Nut

Ok- now i found that the fuel pump went bad from sittin-installed new. Kicks alot and got it to run for 30 sec. Wont stay running, even bypassed the afm with the jumper. It just feels like it is flooding too quick. Any help"?

jenkin

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar problem with my 86 na after an engine swap and it turned out to be a bad MAF. My understanding is that it was sensing no air, so it wasnt allowing any fuel (or spark). If you have wet plugs, I guess this isnt your problem, but the bad MAF kicked my butt for a year. And..... I have found that when the starter wont work, pull starting will get the engine going if there is any chance that it will fire. I finally had to get my car to someone with a $4000 snap-on diagnostic computer to finally figure out wtf was going on... if you have another rx7 that runs, swap the MAF into your non-runner, or, i guess if you disconnect it, it'll revert to limp mode.. good luck