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That's a power (i.e., high current) transistor. While you're at it, I would recommend replacing that electrolytic capacitor too since they tend to leak as they age. So, apparently something in your headlight circuit was drawing excess current, which caused that transistor to melt. A problem that I once had was that the connections at the headlights became corroded, and caused my switch and the wires mating to the headlights to burn-up due to high current draw. I would recommend cleaning your headlight terminals before testing the switch.
That's a power (i.e., high current) transistor. While you're at it, I would recommend replacing that electrolytic capacitor too since they tend to leak as they age. So, apparently something in your headlight circuit was drawing excess current, which caused that transistor to melt. A problem that I once had was that the connections at the headlights became corroded, and caused my switch and the wires mating to the headlights to burn-up due to high current draw. I would recommend cleaning your headlight terminals before testing the switch.
Yeah when I pieced my car back together I forgot to connect the ground on the front harness. I believe that to be the culprit and have fixed it. Also one of the copper tracks was broken (see below, not sure what it went to). Thats also been repaired. I ordered 2 B1155 transistors so we'll see what happens. Thanks for the help.
Also, would you mind pointing out the capacitor you recommend changing (C1, C2, C3?)? Thanks. I think your talking about C4 the black one.
EDIT: After doing a google search, I see you're talking about C4, the only "electrolytic" capacitor on the board. ;-)
Last edited by FührerTüner; Oct 10, 2018 at 09:25 AM.
Yes, C4 is the only electrolytic cap that I can see on that PCB. Oh, electrolytic caps are polarized (i.e., + and - sides) so make sure you put the replacement in the right way.
Yes, C4 is the only electrolytic cap that I can see on that PCB. Oh, electrolytic caps are polarized (i.e., + and - sides) so make sure you put the replacement in the right way.
I'm glad there's a bunch of folks on the forum that are cracking in to these old systems and figuring out how they work. Parts swapping won't last us much longer. If we get enough of these posts, might be worth organizing them in a folder.
Also, my $0.02 is I would definitely check all the diodes. A couple diodes went bad in my fan amp and it kept burning out the blower transistor.
Last edited by professionalpyroman; Oct 10, 2018 at 11:36 AM.
I'm glad there's a bunch of folks on the forum that are cracking in to these old systems and figuring out how they work. Parts swapping won't last us much longer. If we get enough of these posts, might be worth organizing them in a folder.
