TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

LOL. I do take the rings off when I'm working with a running engine. Pretty safe since it's not running and the main breaker's off

Sooo...

1st pic ) Temp gauge? (oil, water, fart?)
2nd ) Knock Sensor.... I don't sees no stinkin' knock sensor (is that so I can hear the officer, pulling me over, knocking on the window?); where is it?
3rd ) Trans neutral or oil-pan level?
Xtra ) Wire from #1 to here?

Since the OPSU is in the last pic, I may as well ask: Where's the grounding for that? My gauge is PEGGED wide open, even when no power is going to it.

I CAN take better pics, if it'll help.

@jjcobm: I'll figure something out... Maybe extra (and much needed) Karma from the Rotary gods?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

The OPSU is grounded through itself. If you disconnect the wire to the OPSU, your gauge should be dead, not pegged. Something is wrong there.

#3: There should be two wires on that plug, its a two plug wire. It should be oval correct? Trans Neutral switch. You are missing a wire on that plug.

#2: knock sensor, never seen one, but should be located above the spark plugs on one of the housings. Only for turbo engine.

#1: i am sure he means coolant temp gauge as that is the only one you have that measures temp am I not right? Seems odd it would be for that since you took the picture in a different area, it would plug into #4 if it is.

Yes, I need karma.... i am in rotary hell this year...

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Here're some new pics, for verification (same vantage-point, driver's side):

#3. Oval plug, one wire and the spot for the other wire has a little black plug in it:


#2. Gotcha... This IS an S5Tii harness, so no surprise, there. Any ECU issues, without it?

#1. Here're two pics from the same vantage-point, over the rear coil. (Notice the location of the IAT, in both pics). The first is #1 (look upper right of pic... Sucker doesn't look like it'll reach to the other end...


and the second is #4 (The plug in question is at the apex of the black hose that makes a 'C,' around the oil filter). Nope! No WAY it'll reach!:


Any other pics needed to help helping me?

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Ran a wire from #1 to 4. We'll see how that works out.

As well, I'm inclined to go with K-Tune's suggestion on #3.

When I took the pics, above, I found that the oil-level sensor was severed, in the harness; hence no adjoining plug, to attach.... Will rectify, today.

Maybe this can help my psychotic oil-pressure gauge.

HAILERS2

You really, really need to give the wire colors in the plugs you mention. IF you'll look at the free online FSM wiring diagrams they show what the wire colors are for each sensor and how many wires in each plug.

A Black/Red wire means to me it has something to do with subzero sensor in the pan.

The color of the wire going to the water temperature sensor is yellow/white.

The plug in your hand has what colors for the wires? Looks more like the plug to the air bypass valve on the back of the intake. But there's no way to tell cause the colors are not easily seen.

Air Intake Temp sensor already has a plug on it so?????

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Which colors would you like me to clarify? I tried to post everything with the proper color(s), but if I missed one, lemme know.

As far as the oil pan goes, I don't have ANYTHING connected to the pan, since I just found out (while running 4G for the battery relocation) that the loom, to it, is hacked off. Could this little bugger go to that or what? Maybe oil-level signal?

IAT/AIT sensor was just for location reference; not to be meant that I was looking for the connection, to it.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

BTW: All pics posted in this thread are found HERE.

HAILERS2

The color of the wire(s) in the plug you have your hand on. The second picture from the top in this thread.

HAILERS2

Oil level sensor has a two socket plug with but one R/L wire in it. Like the free online fsm shows.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

That's the one!

I mentioned, when I posted it, that that plug/ wire was red and SOMETHING (as well as apologizing that I couldn't discern the color due to lighting and location.)

Now all I need to do is splice that into the bare-ended one and that's that.

I certainly agree with looking in the FSM, but not knowing where to start is kind of a hobbling point.

Next Episode:

Decoding the oddities of the front wiper motor and system!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

This car is a NA shell & keg w/ S5 turbo parts which the previous owner obviously didn't know what they were doing.

I'd seriously recommend removing the harness and sitting down with the FSM and multimeter and pinning out every possibly connector and labeling them.
Are you even sure it's a S5 USDM TII harness? or was it in the car before you got it?

The first pic instantly tells you something isn't oem. The boost sensor is tied to the motor itself instead of fender.

I personally never follow wire color on the fc harnesses for non primary wiring(injectors).
I ended up having reversed wires on my tps due to following color codes versus the multimeter.

I still wonder how this thing is going to stay together after you get the other stuff figured out.
It's high comp rotors and I don't think a stock S5 ecu will deal with it.

Haltech would be a good solution to this issue

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Well, everything that's been said has been said before, including the [Hal/Micro]tech point.

The only thing about the Boost Reference Sensor is it's mounting location. It still follows the same function and harness wiring, as normal.

It is an S5 NA keg w/ S5 Tii bits (harness, ECU, injectors, CAS, etc - not pump, though; That's a Walbro 255), and, minus the S4 Tii front cover, it's pretty straight forward. The compression of the rotors is irrelevant to the ECU, since the NA ecu doesn't get effected by them, and neither will the Tii, which is currently wired in.

The point of this thread is helping to identify what SHOULD be connected.

I know that this was a project before I got it (with everything you see included/ already assembled) and continues to be such.


Hailers: With the lucky irony, I have 2 more oil pans, complete with said sensors... Only one has the connector, which unbolted, and cleaned up... But there's no WAY that the old one can come out, while it's in the car. FTM, I just in-lined it to the clip-side so it would get reference. I'll change it out, in short time.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

How is the S5 TII ecu which is mapped for 9.0 going to handle the higher 9.7 NA rotors?
Higher compression means higher combustion temperatures with a chance of detonation.

Higher octane is used to help combat this. What gas will you run since the TII ecu is for 91?
Another way is adding more fuel and retarding the timing to help cool the combustion/prevent detonation.

I suppose you could mechanically add more fuel via upping fuel pressure so the injectors are no longer 550's but some odd number higher.

I still consider this move very foolish after all the work you're putting in.
At the very least get an Rtek to change timing or bump fuel.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

If you are running high compression rotors (9.7), do not use the S5 TII ECU. I guarantee you, as well as i am sure the others who have blown their 6-port turbo engines will too, that you won't have a running engine for very long. At the minimum use the stock s5 n/a ecu (assuming no turbo is bolted, otherwise you must go at least r-tek).

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

I know, guys. I'm not planning on doing a ****-TON with this car... Just something to do, for a bit.

As far as fuel, goes, I RARELY have ever run anything LESS than C16 in any of the 5 RX7s I've owned... A couple got the 119 - 130 octane treatment.

Yes, I plan on putting some tuning something-or-rather on it, but deliberating on which, be it RTek, Hal- or MicroTech...

That'll come in due time, I suppose.

FC3S.org has a thread on turboing a n NA 6-port using the Tii harness, ecu, etc. The link's in the FAQ, but their site's down for maintenance, ATM