What is needed to bolt a NA transmission on a TII motor?
Do i need to switch the flywheel and all ?

 

Its not advisable, but possible. The N/A tranny will have more difficulty handling that extra power.

You will need an n/a flywheel, clutch, presuure plate, driveshaft, diff and halfshafts.
there is some info out there that an Auto driveshaft will fit between a TII tranny and N/A diff, so it may also work backwards with a n/a tranny and TII diff. I just cant confrm that.
-a

 

search next time....and I have not comfirmed that the N/A AUTOMATIC Drive Shaft WILL mate the TII tranny with an N/A rear end...

 

All you need is a TII motor. The NA flywheel, tranny and clutch bolt right on. For those making under 300 lb ft of torque, the NA tranny will hold up just fine in a TII swap. Torque, not horsepower kills driveline parts.

As long as you don't regularly launch or drag race it will hold up just fine. Those are the real stresses to a transmission, driveline shock.

 

I am doing this with my (heavier than a coupe) convertible, have for over a year now. You WILL need a very strong clutch, the stocker does not have the holding capacity for the extra power. Everything else should be just fine, provided you do not abuse the car.

 

Its just a temporary change over...
Because my TII trany make some weird noise, and i want to check it out.

The NA drivetrain will be there only for like 2mouth...

 

Kevin, as a side note my Centerforce Dual Friction and RB aluminum flywheel are holding 13psi without a sweat

 

The CF dual friction I had lasted all of 500 miles...the first time I dumped it to do a standing burnout for a Z friend of mine who was behind me, after about 5 seconds, I looked around looking for the tire smoke and realized they weren't spinning That was all she wrote...

Now this ACT 6 puck and EXTREME PP is a different matter altogether. I dont think the weight of a dumptruck could make it slip.

 

That's because you're not supposed to do that

 

CF Dual Friction clutches SUCK.
The organic side is no better than a stock clutch and the feramic pucks fly off.Both my TII engine and a buddies STOCK D16 Civic killed CF/DF clutches in a year or so.He lost a puck and the vibration wasted his input shaft bearing.Mine completely blew out the disc's soft side on a 1-2 shift,not abusing it,just driving hard.
The RB S/S clutch disc has a much better feel,still slips well and is Kevlar instead of organic.Has held up well since I sold my too grabby, OS Giken, The CF/DF pressure plate seems OK,so I kept it with the RB disc.

 

Aren't you supose to break in the clutch for at least 500 mi? Maybe you shouldn't have been dumping it before it broke in.

 

Break in shmake in No drivetrain abuse and any decent clutch upgrade will support a TII swap with mild mods.

 

...

 

 

i got 300 passes on my Centerforce DF but it is on a n/a