Ok i have an 88 na rx7 , it's not been running right lately. It seems anytime i press the gas fast, the engine hesitates/bogs down, almost as if its backfiring because its not getting enough of something.

I disconnected the tps and the car wont even run at all, it starts bogging out and running even worse then just dies out. I checked the connectors on the tps and they are all corroded , but even with the corrosion on it , it still runs when connected...but why won't it run at all when disconnected ? I've run the car before with my tps disconnected and it ran fine, so whatever the problem is , disconnecting the tps made the problem much worse.

What the hell is going on ?

 

Clean the contacts on the TPS plug thoroughly, plug it back in & set it. Testing / set info here: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1

The easiest way to set the TPS it to allow the engine to reach operating temp, switch it off, then turn the key to 'ON'. Use a multimeter to backprobe the "A" terminal of the TPS plug & connect the other side to the negative battery terminal. Turn the adjustment screw until the multimeter reads 1.0v.

If it still runs poorly, or the TPS fails the resistance tests in the write up I linked to, replace it with a good used one. Trying to run the car without a TPS is not the best solution.

 

Does the car idle fine? Without pressing the gas?

Is that your car in your avatar? I see you did the "ghetto" warm air intake. Sometime when you just let it drag like that, the airflow sensor gets slightly unplugged. Make sure that connection is in there well. Also, check your pressure sensor plug. That may be unplugged. Make sure the vacuum tube going to the unit is good. No holes, etc. The sensor is located on the strut tower, on the side with the air flow sensor.

Then, pull your plugs out, and see how they look. Any covered in gas? Oil? Coolant?

You should be able to idle w/o the TPS. You can techincally drive without it too, but under load, like trying to go up a hill, the car will start to buck, and want to die.

Hmmm, any more information about your car? Those are the only things i can think of right now.

 

My car has alot of the cheap mods done, it has the throttle body mod, the 5/6 ports removed, the cold start system removed and all the emissions system removed including the air pump. The engine is streetported and has a full exhaust 2.5" with straight pipe (no cat).

I havent taken out the plugs yet, but last time i checked they looked pretty bad as far as carbon goes from what i remembered.

I think my engine may have bad coolant seals due to being overheated when I first put the rebuilt engine in (didnt realize my clutch fan was bad).

The car will idle fine without pressing the gas , but when you first start the car it doesn't really like to hold idle, infact i have to rev the car from keeping it from stalling out until it warms up....but... the brake booster on the car is probably bad, and I don't know if that could be causing the problem , or contributing to it...as it stands my car is sitting in the driveway, its been sitting there for a while, dont really trust driving it until all the problems have been fixed.

I run the car with the tps connected, as soon as i disconnect it while the car is running, its starts running completely terrible (bogging until it dies , which is very quickly), and if i reconnect it before it dies, it will idle back up to normal...so whatever the problem is , disconnecting my throttle position sensor is making it worse, and the tps seems to be a bandaid for whatever the problem is.

 

I see from your avatar that the flapper in the AFM is pointing down. That will make the car run rich.

 

When was the last time you checked compression?

I have to admit, I am slightly out of ideas for right now. I would start testing. I have also done the TB mod, emissions removal, etc. But, I don't have to let the car warm up. It will idle solid at 650 even cold.

My first thought would be a vacuum leak, which could be in the brake booster. try pressurizing the system and checking for leaks.

Also, like Aaron said, the flapper door facing down isn't good. Try and keep it level.

I think if you had good compression, and no leaks, it should do just fine. I don't know a lot about the ECU, and when it reads the TPS. I have heard of people keeping it disconnected, but that sounds like a really bad idea.

 

I've actually put the afm in the correct position a while back, picture is just outdated.

After I get a good look at the car and replace the brake booster , I'll inform you how things go.

 

I've never checked compression but I've always had a problem with getting the car to idle initially when i start it up, it could have always had a bad brake booster for all i know...also I have the BAC Valve removed, which I have heard can cause idling problems.