rs_1101

basic principal.. my dads an oldschool style musclecar dude and he was telling me the theory about how water injection works for n/a cars. the idea of course is that the water evaporates and cools intake temps, and as it expands, it also increases pressure in the combustion chamber...

so would i want to mount water injection before or after the intake air temp sensor?

would i be better off trying methanol/water injection?

Syonyk

The general consensus around here was that it wouldn't be worth a whole lot on a NA, but I'm not sure if it's been tried.

Give it a shot, let us know. I'd imagine putting it before the intake air temp sensor would be most effective, so it would see the lowered intake temperatures, but there's a lot of hot metal between that sensor and the actual intake... so it might not matter terribly much.

-=Russ=-

rs_1101

well.. im not sure for two reasons (as to spray placement) if you place spray above the IATS (or whatever its called) itll see lowered temps and adjust timing accordingly, but im wondering if the added water would mess with fuel mixtures, according to air density.? it shouldnt right?
all ive been told is that water/methanol means the difference between feeling your car pull hard, and getting your head smacked against the headrest.

my idea was to have a main switch for the system, and to have a momentary switch under the gas pedal or something. can anyone recomend any parts that would accomodate this?

anyone with any experiences of the nature?

Icemark

You would be better off using a vac switch, so that when the intake vac was lower than 2 inchs then it injected.

Switches on the throttle are too much of a worry if they stuck. Vac based, you would never have to worry about a stuck throttle or throttle switch.

add in a thermo switch so that it only injects warm and your set to start playing... but before you do that:

It has been my experience with non turbos that water injection is pretty much a waste of time. The main use for water injection on a piston motor is to reduce knocking when the timing is sufficently advanced to provide more HP. On a non turbo rotary, knocking is almost non existant as they run richer, the higher RPM they run at. This is the opposite of a Turbo Rotary and most conventional Piston motors (not including Miller Cycle piston motors).

Top off using Methanol and you are running even richer on a non turbo... probably the worst thing you can do for increasing HP.

rs_1101

thats kinda what i thought, as my dad was referring to carb motors. perhaps this would be a good mod to use with safc?