Raymr

After replacing most of the vac hoses on my '88 N/A, the idle speed went way down. I followed the instructions in the manual for TP adjustment, and didn't touch anything else. The BAC seems to compensate when I turn the A/C on. But even when I turn the idle screw on top almost all the way out, I can't get it above 700 or so. While driving, I sometimes have to blip the throttle a little to get going, altho it hasn't stalled out on me yet. 850 would be nice. Any suggestions?

asherwood

Not sure if this applies to the 88's, as mine is a '91.

But there is a basic setting that will give you a point from where the idle should start from. For the '91 when the throttle body is at a temperature of 77F there should be a clearance between the primary butterfly valve and the wall of the TB of 0.016-0.020". This will basically set the primaries part way open, I'm sure that if this is incorrectly set then achieving the right idle might be difficult.

For the '88 there is a copy of the Factory Service Manual online, you can try these locations:

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...nical_info.htm

or: http://www.fc3s.org/

look under 'how to's' and then 'manuals'

good luck

HAILERS

I agree with ASHERWOOD. But I'm on a tear about what happens when you lose the ground signal from the NEUTRAL SWITCH. That switch is located on the transmission, I'm not talking about clutch pedals. If this ground is lost to the ECU, and your sitting there idling, you will lose a couple of hundred rpm at idle. I've done this on my car. Disconnected the neutral sw, and the rpms drop a couple hundred. This phenomenem can also be caused by a deteriorating neutral sw putting out a high resistance. That said, you can also jack up the rpm at idle, on a 86-88, by turning the throttle stop screw against the throttle lever. Very small screw with a 8mm jamnut on it. Forward part of the throttle body. Just above the tps about two inches. It'll crack the primary throttle plate a touch more to the open position.