Parastie

Is it hard to grind out the exhaust diffuser?

ddub

Of course you can do that with a stock computer, all it is is a combined aux/secondary port My 6port is now essentially a 4 haha

Only revved to 4k so far, well 4100 once

850 miles so far on break-in, yes I've been in it a while, but my commute to school isn't very far (about 40-50 miles a day total there/back), I don't have a job to drive to right now, and I'm very busy with school trying to get into the Business program so I don't have a lot of free time to just put miles on my car.

Still no going over 4k rpms for me, gotta get to 1500 miles before I can do that =|

I have an s4.


Now that I look at integras port and a different picture/angle I have of my secondary plates, it looks like I went just as far as he did up and down with the ports, only difference is mine is combined and his still has the divider. Hmmm, interesting. Because when looking at the ports before reassembly there was a little more to be had on the aux side of the ports. His primary ports are definitely larger than mine from the pictures I've seen of them.

ddub

Hard? Wouldn't necessarily say that, just time consuming

If you're going to do it take great caution. Because it takes so long to grind it out, the the diffuser can turn red hot while the carbide bit is grinding against it for prolonged periods. Every time I saw this happening I took it off for a few seconds to let it cool down, but one time I didn't and a chunk came off and hit me in the arm, burned a bit

Also, you can get sparks sometimes while doing it, definitely where protective goggles while doing any porting. You don't wanna get metal shavings in your eyes, trust me

IaMtHeRuThLeSs1

that makes 2 of us.

casio

BDC did a writeup on nopistons about taking out exhaust diffusers. i think he got to wear he could get one out in 30 seconds to a minute. i know i'm telling you late, but you may want to find that writeup. may come in handy when you re-tear the engine down.

ddub

He might've used a torch to do it. This works very very well and goes very very fast, but it leaves the inside kind of messy where the diffuser was cut with a slight bump. Of course that would then be ground down to make the sleeve completely smooth. I didn't however have a torch and wanted it to be cleaner/smoother inside so I opted to grind it out.

Don't have to worry about getting any diffusers out anymore, next time I port the exhaust the whole sleeve will come out and I'll be race porting it

casio

naw, it wasnt a torch. damnit man, search!! JK... uhg, i would go find it, but... uhg... it was a simple method using a screw.

ddub

Oh, you're talking about removing the sleeve, not the diffuser. The diffuser is part of the sleeve, and yes I've read that. Lots of people opt to simply remove the N/A sleeve with the diffuser in it and put in a TII one without the diffuser. Much different

casio

damnit, man! how dare you contradict me!
haha, yea, cause he has good n/a housings and bad T2 housings. no grinding, just replacing. i dont know what all it consists of, just trying to make my useless self useful.

Parastie

I would think that'd be harder to find T2 sleeves then just grinding out the NA diffuser. I also don't have the money for it.

UneekRJ

you dont necessarily need all that to pop flames...mine was stock NA, except for k&n filter, racing beat headers, and apexi n1 exhaust...straight all the way back...i was popping 6 foot flames on a good night. and the night my engine blew i threw up an 8 footer...kinda sucked

casio

well, depends. my friend rebuilds engines. he had a couple of stacks of housings (it was rediculous). i think the count was 20-30, but i dont remember. i dont know how many were good, bad, or for 'grenade motors.' but the sleeves could be used and they're at his disposal. so if a T2 sleeve is needed and the n/a housing is available, the switch can be made.

88IntegraLS

I think it's safe to say that Ddub's exhaust port is bigger than mine. I was lazy and just swapped in TII sleeves instead of grinding out the diffusers.

ddub

It is easier, plus you're right, it costs money to get the sleeves rather than just grinding them out

ddub

Yah mine goes down a little bit further and up a very tiny bit, not *too* much bigger

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hehe, you're making that sound a bit easy. It's not too bad if you lay the car up for awhile and take alot of time to tinker..

You need all sorts of parts, including new custom headers to accomedate the 5th and 6th ports and still mount a turbo, new UIM assembly, oil lines, coolant lines, and then you have the exhaust, which would be a blast.

After that, you have to remember to tweak fuel delivery and slap on all the electronics needed to tame the beast. It does sound like one hell of a winter project though.....

ddub

First, turbos have exhaust manifolds and downpipes, not headers. Second, please don't post misinformation when you don't know what you're talking about.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Your original post was:

The wording makes it very confusing. Correct, the vacuum in the engine has no effect on the port sleeves.

Years ago, a science teacher told me that if I think of "suction" (which really doesn't exist) in terms of vacuum and pressure filling that vacuum, the whole process is easier to understand.

Generally, whereever airflow is concerned, smoother is better. So even if you are reducing port size slightly, the smoother transition results in more air into the engine.

Well that's true, and one of the reasons why turbo 6 port engines tend to make much more power then a stock ported TII engine...HOWEVER, we still have that abrupt 90 degree change in direction, and that metal "lip". If Pineapple's claims are true, that those sleeves will result in a 4-5 HP gain, then this turbulence must be significant and distruptive.

I'm not worried about it. To a conversation, I bring much needed sarcasm. Without meeting me, it's hard to know that I am nearly always making a joke of somthing, and "ribbing" someone when necessary...

Anyway, I certainly agree that in a turbo application, the sleeves are a big restriction. But only because they reduce the volume of the runner. The port hole in the sleeve is nearly as large as the port, so I can't see that it would pose any significant restriction. And the sleeve itself helps to smooth out the "lip" and transition at the end of the runner.

Now, if you have ports like this, things are different:



I was temped to post pictures of my PP 12A housings, but that would be 1st gen.

totallimmortal

If your motor is in good shape and your a good driver then you should be able to get near a 14 with some easy cheap mods like I did, full exhaust, don't use a cat just 2.5 inch pipe from the header back to racing beat cat back(if your low on money you could just run 2.5 or 2.25 straight back to any muffler you choose but it will be loud). An Intake, and not just a cone filter, make a heat sheild or some war for the intake to get cooler air than in the engine bay. Get good tires and Launch near redline or at least really high like 6000 depending on how traction is at your track. port your trottle body and even intake manifolds a bit, Now i'm not saying that anyone who does these things will run a 14 just that they worked for my in my 86 base model with 115000 miles on it

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Aaron when is tat engine going to run. I want to rip you off and copy your port that looks gr8.