No problem, this post is getting excessively long! My goal is to try to run a 5th gear WOT to redline on the dyno (if temperatures/etc stay nice) so I can get pretty much the closest to max load i'll see while daily driving it around in 3rd and 4th at WOT (or at the strip). So all in all, I'm hoping 3rd and 4th will be lower, probably in the 11:1 area. I've got no problems right now with it at 11.5:1 in 4th, so I don't see much need to adjust that out any more. We'll see come dyno day.

 

Personally I think you're going about that the wrong way... and it's asking for a poped motor either in tunning or shortly thereafter. The highest load is preciesly where you don't want a AFR over 12.

At the very most you should be tunning for high 11's.

Driving on the street with the uncertainties of gas and your high comp motor... I just think 12 is asking for trouble.

Just my $.02

 

Very cool. I always like seeing other's turbo NA pictures to see what they did better/worse then me, and their version of things...Sounds like you're pretty happy. Gotta' love that instant spool, eh? There's just something cool about getting full boost revving in neutral. So much for anti-lag.

 

I did quite a bit worse than you, a lot less time was involved so quite a bit is in the 'rigged' category, specifically all the couplers/etc used in the IC piping (which I plan to get cleaned up). As far as my exhaust is concerned, I brought it in and had my brother's friend make me a 2.5" downpipe which is pretty smooth in design. I also don't like all the 3-2" couples I had to use, I'm hoping to get a metal elbow for the N/a TB to remove that section. All in all it's working great except for the damn clutch issues. Did you do anything with your timing, or just left it alone? I'm at dead stock with mine.

 

My timing was actually several degrees advance from stock. Under boost my car was being drowned in fuel, which kept detonation under control at the expense of a little power. I'm now going to the Microtech for full control of everything...of course, the engine is bridgeported, so that's probably a necessity.

 

the only thing i wish I could've done differently was to maybe have the turbo sit about 2 inches forward more, either by having the pipes cut at an angle like that or etc, I think it would've gave me a hell of a lot more room to fit everything in. Oh well, I used your page for almost all of the information. Mounting that thing surely was a pain in the ***, had to hold it in place, slide the bolts through the manifold, put the nuts on them, then go around trying to fit a 17mm into those spots was a nightmare. Well worth it though! What ACT clutch are you going with? (from your 6 month report)

 

Mounting the turbo...Talk about a nightmare! I had to custom make my own stubby wrench, then tighten with a hammer and drift...

As for clutches, I am no longer going with the ACT. There is a local company that can make custom "special" clutches for any application. They supply local race teams, and prices significantly under the "name brands". So I'm getting one of theirs...Whatever they recommend is what I will go with.

 

Cool

I think I want to turbo my N/A now.

My prime concern is gas mileage. I get 18-21 miles per gallon regularly, no joke, I have no idea how.

What kind of gas mileage do you get aaron/sonic?

thx

 

well my t2 gets about 7-9MPG -alex

 

I was getting 29mpg with the sport before, I'm down to around 20 or so now as far as I can guesstimate.

 

This is a wicked thread, how long did this take you? any estimate in hours?

 

That's the sort of pig-rich mixtures the factory uses. With decent intercooling and a proper cold air intake (missing here) 12:1 is a good number that'll make more power safely and use less gas.

 

Because of the S-AFC, my car got better mileage off-boost then it did in NA form. I was pulling (about) 26MPG highway. I don't do mileage calculations with the RX-7, so that's an estimate...

Now, with the S4 and it's 1/4 range TPS, you can have an issue. If you have your high throttle map on the S-AFC set to fuel for boost, and you are cruising at above 1/4 throttle (according to the TPS), you will be WAY rich...This can be solved by upgrading to an S5 throttle, or referenceing the S-AFC to boost instead (a very neat trick).

In the city, mileage sucked because I couldn't say off boost.

 

10.5 is conservitive. 11's are fine too.

Maybe i'm just use to FD guys, but I wouldn't run 12's.

Just my opinion.

 

id stay in the 11s, not that i know a-whole-lot about tuning. VERY nice job ont he conversion.

One thing I would like you to go into more detail is the pressure oil source. I see that it is on the oil filter stand (fromt eh looks), care to elaborate? Another is your water sources, where to and from? Thanks!!

 

damn, everyone post enough....?!!

sonicrat congrats dude. Good luck with it. Thats nice u have a WB02. I dont know if they have a website but try a company called "Flowline" for any custom braided steel lines. Their pretty cheap and real helpful.
If you cant find anything, im sure there's someone local. Try the phone book for hydrolic shops or refridgerator places. Oh, and i love the homedepot couples u have connecting the intercooler pipe to the TB. Nice.

-Ryan

 

The most convenient water source is the line that goes to the throttle body.

 

Thats exactly what i was thinking, hell even comes with its own return. The last thing i need to figure is the pressurized oil source. I have a spare oil cooler i was thinking about taping like yourself. But the way sonic did his seems kind of nice too. I want it to be cooled. My return is going to the oil pan, or if i can get one of those nifty TII front covers......

My setup is going to be with a TII block, S4N/A rotors, S4 Turbo and manifold, S4 TII intake manifold(jspec if it matters), S4 TII IC (yeah yeah i know they SUCK )

Thanks
Charles

 

You could just drill/tap the front cover with the oil pan removed and find a hose big enough to work as the drain and then bolt in a barb that size. As for the oil feed, I obtained that from the atkins website for the supercharges, just drilled and tapped the OIL pedistal. I'll explain better in a little bit.

 

I was thinking about the oil feed and came up with an idea. Racing Beat has an adapter that goes under the oil filter so that installation of oil pressure and temperature gauges is easy. Basically it is a block that has holes that are threaded for the temperature and pressure gauge senders to screw into, here it is.




Now, I am only using a oil temperature gauge currently with this adapter, so the 2nd hole that is in it for the 2nd gauge I just plugged with a brass plumbing plug from Home Depot. I was thinking, if you put some kind of adapter on there that has a nipple coming out, you could run that over to the turbo for an easy way to supply oil, couldnt you? Then all you really have to worry about (for oil) is a return. This would make it so no drilling is required for the sending, just a thought

 

yeah that would work awsome just a lil $$

 

Yah that's true, but I already have it for my oil temp gauge. Plus, if you're going to go turbo and want an oil temp or oil pressure gauge (one) this would be a nice little adapter.

 

yea def, rat i was just wondering what your manifold design was, did you weld it up yourself or mod one? also does your fmic have entry and exit along the left side or did you run pipe to the right side?

 

I ran a pipe accross. I was going to go through the drivers side area, but I was in a hurry and didn't have time for anybody to change the IC around. I made the manifold myself, same as aaron's, two RB flanges with pipe welded inbetween to make it 2.5" total. Yes, using a oil pedistal will work, I didn't have one, so I couldn't do that.

 

SonicRat, What did you do just drill and tap the oil filter stand? Thanks