My turbo ii is over heating
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: South Florida
My turbo ii is over heating
I have a 88 base model rx7 with turbo II s5 drive line it keeps over heating and i cant find out what it is i have a very strong ele fan but it is still over heating and every time i stop it over flows and leaves a pool of boiling water on the ground i need help bad please help me out thanks guys
U.S. Army Recon 93-04
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 428
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From: Seminole,Fl
I have a 88 base model rx7 with turbo II s5 drive line it keeps over heating and i cant find out what it is i have a very strong ele fan but it is still over heating and every time i stop it over flows and leaves a pool of boiling water on the ground i need help bad please help me out thanks guys
I have a 88 base model rx7 with turbo II s5 drive line it keeps over heating and i cant find out what it is i have a very strong ele fan but it is still over heating and every time i stop it over flows and leaves a pool of boiling water on the ground i need help bad please help me out thanks guysCharter member of the "Go big or go home" club, eh?
It is possible that he has blown coolant seals- although there's no mention of billowing smoke from the tailpipe- but it's more logical (and far cheaper) to look at the cooling subsystem first. Besides, any work to the cooling would still be valid if the engine needed work anyway.
@OP:
You make no mention of the general condition of the car...how long have you had it and what do know about the state of the components?
With drastic results such as yours, I'd be inclined to go through the whole cooling loop since bleeding is a general PITA (not to mention the rising cost of antifreeze makes it a non-trivial expense anymore).
Replace the thermostat, hoses, pressure cap, belt and waterpump.
Rad too, unless you're certain it's in good shape.
This take no prisoners approach may seem like a contradiction to my opening statements but it's actually maximizing your time and effort.
The whole project is an easy afternoon's work and once you're done, you're done and there's no question about the health of the loop.
Might as well get it over with before winter sets in...the irony of watching your car boil over while you freeze your *** off will be totally lost on you.
SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
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From: Jacksonville, FL
So, he has a cooling system problem and your first recommendation is to rebuild the engine?
Charter member of the "Go big or go home" club, eh?
It is possible that he has blown coolant seals- although there's no mention of billowing smoke from the tailpipe- but it's more logical (and far cheaper) to look at the cooling subsystem first. Besides, any work to the cooling would still be valid if the engine needed work anyway.
@OP:
You make no mention of the general condition of the car...how long have you had it and what do know about the state of the components?
With drastic results such as yours, I'd be inclined to go through the whole cooling loop since bleeding is a general PITA (not to mention the rising cost of antifreeze makes it a non-trivial expense anymore).
Replace the thermostat, hoses, pressure cap, belt and waterpump.
Rad too, unless you're certain it's in good shape.
This take no prisoners approach may seem like a contradiction to my opening statements but it's actually maximizing your time and effort.
The whole project is an easy afternoon's work and once you're done, you're done and there's no question about the health of the loop.
Might as well get it over with before winter sets in...the irony of watching your car boil over while you freeze your *** off will be totally lost on you.
Charter member of the "Go big or go home" club, eh?
It is possible that he has blown coolant seals- although there's no mention of billowing smoke from the tailpipe- but it's more logical (and far cheaper) to look at the cooling subsystem first. Besides, any work to the cooling would still be valid if the engine needed work anyway.
@OP:
You make no mention of the general condition of the car...how long have you had it and what do know about the state of the components?
With drastic results such as yours, I'd be inclined to go through the whole cooling loop since bleeding is a general PITA (not to mention the rising cost of antifreeze makes it a non-trivial expense anymore).
Replace the thermostat, hoses, pressure cap, belt and waterpump.
Rad too, unless you're certain it's in good shape.
This take no prisoners approach may seem like a contradiction to my opening statements but it's actually maximizing your time and effort.
The whole project is an easy afternoon's work and once you're done, you're done and there's no question about the health of the loop.
Might as well get it over with before winter sets in...the irony of watching your car boil over while you freeze your *** off will be totally lost on you.
U.S. Army Recon 93-04
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Seminole,Fl
I am speaking from experience here. I have never seen an overheated Turbo S5 that didn't need rebuilt. I am sure your coolant system is way under par, hence your overheating. If it is just coolant seals, thats a rebuild to in my book. Why pull the enigne out and not rebuild it, is beyond me..
Besides this I live In Florida too and its been over 96 degrees for a week or two, I am almost 100% sure you toasted the engine.
Just trying to be real. You going to have to rebuild the coolant system anyways after you rebuild, or your new engine will blow too.
Besides this I live In Florida too and its been over 96 degrees for a week or two, I am almost 100% sure you toasted the engine.
Just trying to be real. You going to have to rebuild the coolant system anyways after you rebuild, or your new engine will blow too.
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I am speaking from experience here. I have never seen an overheated Turbo S5 that didn't need rebuilt. I am sure your coolant system is way under par, hence your overheating. If it is just coolant seals, thats a rebuild to in my book. Why pull the enigne out and not rebuild it, is beyond me..
Besides this I live In Florida too and its been over 96 degrees for a week or two, I am almost 100% sure you toasted the engine.
Just trying to be real. You going to have to rebuild the coolant system anyways after you rebuild, or your new engine will blow too.
Besides this I live In Florida too and its been over 96 degrees for a week or two, I am almost 100% sure you toasted the engine.
Just trying to be real. You going to have to rebuild the coolant system anyways after you rebuild, or your new engine will blow too.
What exactly constitutes "rebuilding the coolant system anyways?"
to the OP:
Check that your water pump is not leaking water out of the weep hole, this is a small hole behind the pulley on the pump. If water is leaking from that, then your water pump has failed and needs to be replaced
Check that your thermostat is functioning properly
Check that your radiator cap is sealing and the gasket is in good condition (this is easily overlooked and indeed claimed the life of my last T2)
Check that you have bled all the air out of the coolant system
Finally, get an aftermarket water temp guage in that thing because the s5 temp guage is a P.O.S. and can not be trusted.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: South Florida
sounds good and my motor only has 45000 miles on it it only boils some times but most of the time it just dumps water out of the catch can and it is not like boiling but i will lookin in to the parts
U.S. Army Recon 93-04
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Seminole,Fl
It dumps water all the time, but only boils it sometimes...what?? Its not boiling all the time? It dumps cold coolant?
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