2ndgenrx

I have a 88 tll with 20,000 miles on the engine. Every time I put the clutch in to come to a stop the rpm's drop very rapid and the car stalls. Once the car is stopped and I start it, it will idle around 850 but it is a rough idle, it bounces back and forth between 750 and 1000 rpms. Any one have any ideas what is wrong with my car?

Thanks

2ndgenrx

Thank you 87rx, how much would a S-AFC cost and would i have to do more mods to run it?

loofeeTurboII

u can find S-AFCII for around $200-300+ on e-bay..
or $350 in a shop...then FCD will be a good idea..

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

How about you fix it correctly, instead if band-aiding it by buying an SAFC.



Check your TPS first, then do a tune up.

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

yea, i have the exact same problem, im trying to figure it out now. Ill let you know what the problem was when i fix it.

Sammytom

Is it hard to start after it dies? If the idle is bouncing it most likly the TPS. I have the same problem. Mine dies and it floods and it takes a few cranks to get it running again. Ive narrowed it down to a leaking injector. mine also idles high on and off.

Sammytom

I like your sig, when it says everything is fine and nothing is broken. doesnt sound to be true after that statement.

2ndgenrx

"Is it hard to start after it dies?"

No it usually starts right up. Im gonna check my TPS when it stops raining.

Brad89RX7

I've been working on the same problem. I first changed
my O2 sensor, which was the original. They should be
changed every 60,000 miles. My Idle would jump up and
down & car stall when ever I was breaking, Expecially in
hot humid weather. A new O2 sensor helped but didn't
cure the stalling. I cherked my TPS and found it was bad.
I replaced the TPS and noticed a big difference in acceleration and car only stalls now when cold.

I tried adjusting the idle up but that caused the car to
run rich and foul plugs. The idle will not adjust up over
700 rpm and still dips to about 500 rpm when breaking
or applying other loads like lights, but it comes back very
quickly. I'm going to check my input devices one by one
this week-end, hopefully find something. I'm beging to
think my ECU might be bad, my Engine light comes on
from time to time.

If you have to buy a new TPS, check out my "thread" with
subject " how much my TPS cost".

Brad89RX7

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

check vacume leak and try to adjust around with the screws

DAN CARWIN

87rx7ghey, I really wish u would not make STUPID *** suggestion like that one, his car should run fine with out going and buying a SAFC. it could be a vacuum leak, chedck to see if the intercooler hoses are tight. a rx7 should run PERFECT on stock equpment, so no need to buy aftermarket ****.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT MESS WITH THE IDLE SCREWS until you have verified the rest of the systems are working properly! To do so is to just invite problems.

My suggestion would be to check the TPS and clean/test the BAC valve.

BlackIceGuitar

Sounds like what happend to me.
It was a combination of the TPS and a vaccum leak.
Be sure to check everyhing, before replasing anything.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

No doubt TPS and vacuum leaks could cause problems, but as was stated above, that BAC valve can cause a great deal of idle and performance problems.

87RXGhey7

damn, Im just giving suggestions that actually work. But the real problem is most likely a leak inbetween your afm and throttle body.

JPA

I have the same problem on my 88 vert, seems to have gotten better, but it is in the shop right now for plugs, wires and checking of the 02 sensor (and a ps rack rebuild, but I digress)

Seems to be worse the hotter it is out (S FL) and I think it happens with or without A/C on...

Other than that, car idles nicely, starts up great and idles high when cold, and has never flooded on me.

Rizla+

Bad grounds ?