My ports, My ports
#27
Rotary Motoring
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So, I guess the level of detail on the porting is about what you would expect for the price and the builder's reputation/business niche; build an engine that runs well for as cheap as possible.
If you want it perfect you have to learn to do it yourself or pay someone well reputed a whole lot of money and pray they live up to their reputation.
The coolant leak issue is another issue and one you will have to take up with the builder. It can be very hard to find as if it is not something obvious like a pinched coolant seal it can be something sneaky like porosity in the sidehousing casting in the seal groove.
One thing you can do in the future if your engine has a minor internal coolant leak and is spend the money to convert to Evans NPG+ and run it at zero pressure. You can catch and re-use the coolant when you decide to rebuild. This is especially useful for 3rd gen owners who pick up a car cheap with the common coolant seal issue.
If you want it perfect you have to learn to do it yourself or pay someone well reputed a whole lot of money and pray they live up to their reputation.
The coolant leak issue is another issue and one you will have to take up with the builder. It can be very hard to find as if it is not something obvious like a pinched coolant seal it can be something sneaky like porosity in the sidehousing casting in the seal groove.
One thing you can do in the future if your engine has a minor internal coolant leak and is spend the money to convert to Evans NPG+ and run it at zero pressure. You can catch and re-use the coolant when you decide to rebuild. This is especially useful for 3rd gen owners who pick up a car cheap with the common coolant seal issue.
#28
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
If you want it perfect you have to learn to do it yourself or pay someone well reputed a whole lot of money and pray they live up to their reputation.
One question to the thread starter though, was this a rebuild where:
1) Here's my old engine, port it & throw in a rebuild kit
2) Here's my old engine, port it if it needs an iron or something find a used one
or
3) Here's my old engine, port it and make it new
Just curious because it would seem to me that from a standpoint of shop owner, I do what the customer asks - I advise them if they're making bad choices - but I do what they ask. Just curious what was asked.
#31
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by prjct87rx7
and you should take a polishing tip. and go over them i can still see every mark where your tool traveled..
There has been a discussion in the 3rd gen forum about the benefit or non-benefit of poilishing either the outside or inside of an intake manifold.
General conclusion about inside intake polishing is that it's bettter to not smoothen things out totally in favor of keeping the swirl and turbulence in the intake chamber for better air/fuel mixture.
I have seen many portings by now and some remain relatively rough at the surface, others are mirror smooth and shiny.
What's the deal for the intake ports themselves?
I'm a rough surface believer when it comes to this.
#32
Sharp Claws
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i normally leave a small degree of roughness in the pimary port runners, not only to help promote air/fuel mixing but because it's hard to find a bit long enough to polish in there.
the pics are a little fuzzy still but if it wasn't burning oil or eating side seals and produced good power then that is all you need to worry about.
the pics are a little fuzzy still but if it wasn't burning oil or eating side seals and produced good power then that is all you need to worry about.
#33
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I've never really understood why so many people insist on polishing the ports. Fuel sticks to a polished surface much easier than a rough surface. There is minimal to no gain to be had by polishing and added turbulence is never a bad thing when it comes to the intake side.
#34
Sharp Claws
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Originally Posted by rarson
I've never really understood why so many people insist on polishing the ports. Fuel sticks to a polished surface much easier than a rough surface. There is minimal to no gain to be had by polishing and added turbulence is never a bad thing when it comes to the intake side.
that depends on what kind of power you want to make, i am a firm believer that rough ports will create better torque while polished ports will create more top end power which is why i do both a rough primary to help low end torque and a polished secondary to promote better top end flow/power.
#36
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Originally Posted by Karack
that depends on what kind of power you want to make, i am a firm believer that rough ports will create better torque while polished ports will create more top end power which is why i do both a rough primary to help low end torque and a polished secondary to promote better top end flow/power.
Thats kinda what I was going for. I used an 80 grit sanding wheel on the primary ports, and 120 on the secondary. After looking I noticed more carbon on one of my rotors than the other. I can see where one of the ports goes into the oil ring area but not a whole lot, mabe 1-2 MM. I only noticed smoke when I was in the higher rpms. No smoke at Idle though.
Is their any thing I have to do to new rotor housings before I use them? I am going to try to port them. I have the RB templet and I have read a few different peoples thoughts on exhaust ports.
I will try to get some better pictures. Is their any thing that you would reccoment I do to them.
Last edited by samperry007; 07-11-06 at 10:36 AM.
#39
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Originally Posted by samperry007
Is their any thing I have to do to new rotor housings before I use them? I am going to try to port them. I have the RB templet and I have read a few different peoples thoughts on exhaust ports.
#40
FC since 99
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For a REALLY SWEET port job, check my signature. LOL!
That is what I found after I blew a rebuild with 6000 miles on it! Well that and a WHOLE lot more crap.
Getting a new engine built by Turblown.net (1Revvin7). Once he ports it, I'll post some pics.
and
This may hold true, but it's just like any other engine. Why would you tear it apart and only replace what IMMEDIETLY needs fixing. If your going for power, even slightly more, the WHOLE engine has to be able to support the desired power.
In short, no matter if its piston or rotary or a hamster wheel attached to a rubber band, to do it right is gonna cost.
That is what I found after I blew a rebuild with 6000 miles on it! Well that and a WHOLE lot more crap.
Getting a new engine built by Turblown.net (1Revvin7). Once he ports it, I'll post some pics.
and
If you want it perfect you have to learn to do it yourself or pay someone well reputed a whole lot of money and pray they live up to their reputation.
In short, no matter if its piston or rotary or a hamster wheel attached to a rubber band, to do it right is gonna cost.
#42
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Exhaust ports
Here are some pictures of one of my exhaust ports. What needs to be changed or fixed? The picture with the pencil mark is of the Rb templet as you can see I decided to do it differently. Also it's my first time.
Last edited by samperry007; 12-21-07 at 10:10 PM.
#45
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I have not finished them yet. I am wanting to know if I am heading in the right direction, Basic port stuff. I will make every even and smooth when I finish them.
#48
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Originally Posted by drago86
On the first ports posted the primaries are definatly into the oil seal track. This may cause smoking.
I will post some pictures of both of the exhaust ports later.
What would it do If you went more up with the port?
#49
you get alot of overlap from the exhaust being open at the same time as the intake and you end up sucking in exhaust gas as well as intake air, aka bad. I wouldn't reccomend it
#50
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Thank you! So more down = more high rpm HP an the cost of torque.
Here are some pictures of both exhaust ports.
Also does anybody know what the numbers on the side of my rotor housing is? Its only on one.
Here are some pictures of both exhaust ports.
Also does anybody know what the numbers on the side of my rotor housing is? Its only on one.
Last edited by samperry007; 12-21-07 at 10:10 PM.