My oil guage reads anywhere from 100 to 110 opened the oil cap stayed the same could the sender be bad you think it's an 86 na base.

 

Mine is toasted as are many peoples. They get clogged and stick. Mine sticks at about 30 pounds. freaked me out.

 

I've never heard of a "clogged" sending unit, in fact, I can't see how that could happen.
The sending unit could be bad but I doubt it's because it's clogged.

 

So you opened the cap that you suspected was holding back 100psi of hot oil?

It could have a higher pressure regulator from another 13b. Or broken sender.

 

Does it always stay at this reading regardless of whether you are idling or driving? If so, then make sure the sending wire is not accidentaly grounded or the condenser wire related to the gauge itself is not grounded.

 

Like Satch asked, does the gauge ever show a lower (or higher) reading? Does it stay at 100 psi with the key in the 'ON' position, but w/ the engine off?

This is what I was thinking . I'm glad the crankcase doesn't pressurize to 100 psi.

 

Sometimes it reads in between 30 and 60 at start up then from 100 to 110 and there isn't any smoke from to much crank case pressure or anything the car itself only had 59839 miles on it so not sure what the problem would be lol

 

[QUOTE=rotaryguy481;11426720]Sometimes it reads in between 30 and 60 at start up then from 100 to 110 and there isn't any smoke from to much crank case pressure or anything the car itself only had 59839 miles on it so not sure what the problem would be lol[/QUOTe
Crank case?

 

[QUOTE=marclong;11426859]My bad rotor housing pressure lol or whatever it is lol

 

sry from bringing this up but i have a oil sensor problem aswell. the gauge shows a little under the first line, 2 psi i guess on 2.5k rpm. when i push the pedal to rpms over 4 it hesitates a little and rises under the next level and then slowly drops. is the sensor bad or the stock gauge? no buzzer
89 t2 with n/a rotors. driven about 300 km after rebuild. temp. was about -5 celsius