My new s4 n/a project
I think it's really about driving style. You could do a relatively cheap turbo swap in comparison to the 3k plus for the ls1/t56 but it will still hover around the 220hp mark. If they were both even you could argue either way about the strengths and weaknesses but it's really all about preference and driving style. If you want a car has a powerplant that not alot of others have, stick with the rotary. If you don't care the v8 is a better option. If you will be spending alot of your time in the car in the powerband, you could stay with the rotary and compete with the ls1 all day. It's all about preference.
I finally finished up the premix mod, so I can knock that off my long list of **** to fix. I thought it would be helpful to post some pics because I did alot of reading but saw very few pictures.
Before I started...

The pump and lines


The sealers needed are in this picture. For those just doing the mod, you will also need some vacuum caps and four 10mm-1.25 bolts. I had to grind some down so that I could be sure they didn't interfere with the apex seals.

The plugged holes. Sorry for the nasty block.

And the blockoff plate from pineapple racing

The removed spider lines, injectors, and pump.

I also removed the power steering brace and the a/c compressor because it isn't going to be used and it makes the bay look a little cleaner.

Last but not least.. the new steering wheel I stole off ebay.

I'm still trying to source the shift **** and some broken interior pieces (the AAS switchboard, and the two window switches) and I am about to buy some oem injectors off ebay because the ones I pulled off the car are different resistances. I have three high impedance and one low impedance. See below.
If anyone has these parts, please let me know. I will post some more pics when I finish doing the dirty work on the shotty interior.
Before I started...

The pump and lines


The sealers needed are in this picture. For those just doing the mod, you will also need some vacuum caps and four 10mm-1.25 bolts. I had to grind some down so that I could be sure they didn't interfere with the apex seals.

The plugged holes. Sorry for the nasty block.

And the blockoff plate from pineapple racing

The removed spider lines, injectors, and pump.

I also removed the power steering brace and the a/c compressor because it isn't going to be used and it makes the bay look a little cleaner.

Last but not least.. the new steering wheel I stole off ebay.

I'm still trying to source the shift **** and some broken interior pieces (the AAS switchboard, and the two window switches) and I am about to buy some oem injectors off ebay because the ones I pulled off the car are different resistances. I have three high impedance and one low impedance. See below.
If anyone has these parts, please let me know. I will post some more pics when I finish doing the dirty work on the shotty interior.
It was funny, the guy I got it from told me it ran and when we got there he said it wasn't getting fuel on the rear rotor. I guess running two different kinds of injectors had something to do with it. When he did try to start it, there was alot of backfiring and it wouldn't turn over. He said it was probably out of gas because he had driven it for several miles with the needle at E. We'll see what happens when I put that first few gallons of premix in when the injectors get back from witchhunter.
BTW, how's your car coming?
I started the car today.
Right now is when the harness nightmares are starting to hit me. I couldn't get the car to start at all until I gave a red wire power that apparently went to the coil. When it started it sounded like ****, so I'm thinking the other green wire might need to have power too. I'm also trying to find out what this hose is supposed to go to because it was leaking coolant everywhere when the car was running.
|The one in the middle that goes out of sight behind the purple vacuum lines.
Right now is when the harness nightmares are starting to hit me. I couldn't get the car to start at all until I gave a red wire power that apparently went to the coil. When it started it sounded like ****, so I'm thinking the other green wire might need to have power too. I'm also trying to find out what this hose is supposed to go to because it was leaking coolant everywhere when the car was running.
|The one in the middle that goes out of sight behind the purple vacuum lines.
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I'm trying to avoid starting another "my car starts then dies" thread but it may be unavoidable. The car used to start and die about 4 seconds after but I jumpered the fuel pump socket and now it does this. There are no major vacuum leaks that I can find but that doesn't mean there isn't one. The car runs relatively norma,l as you can hear in the video after it gets good and running. I just don't understand why it's dying like this. I give it gas when it starts but when it stalls the throttle has no effect.
Any ideas?
I'm trying to avoid starting another "my car starts then dies" thread but it may be unavoidable. The car used to start and die about 4 seconds after but I jumpered the fuel pump socket and now it does this. There are no major vacuum leaks that I can find but that doesn't mean there isn't one. The car runs relatively norma,l as you can hear in the video after it gets good and running. I just don't understand why it's dying like this. I give it gas when it starts but when it stalls the throttle has no effect.
Any ideas?
Ty.
I have the car running flawlessly now. After I got the injectors back all shiny and brand new looking, I replaced the afm, coolant temp sensor, and the pulsation damper. The car fired right up and runs like a champ. I need to get new tires because the current ones are 6 years old. I also connected the temperature gauge and now everything about the car mechanically couldn't be better.
Video to follow.
I have the car running flawlessly now. After I got the injectors back all shiny and brand new looking, I replaced the afm, coolant temp sensor, and the pulsation damper. The car fired right up and runs like a champ. I need to get new tires because the current ones are 6 years old. I also connected the temperature gauge and now everything about the car mechanically couldn't be better.
Video to follow.
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