My New FC
08-26-07, 05:00 PM
#1
Rotary n00b
Thread Starter
My New FC
Hi, my name's Rudy Kohn and I just bought a 1987 Turbo II!
It has about 130000 miles on it, and is bone stock, except the radio.
I'm new to rotary engines, and new to turbochargers... so... yeah. Maybe a little overeager.
I went down to San Antonio, and took a look at it yesterday, and everything seemed just fine. The turbos spooled all right, no smoke, everything seemed to work. I took it for a short test drive, had no problems. Gears were silent and smooth. No warning lights, brakes and clutch work.
I told the guy I wanted to buy it, and went back today. Again, no obvious problems, everything seems alright.
However, after I got it out on the freeway for about 20 minutes or so, I started noticing a few things that didn't happen yesterday. First: the "ADD COOLANT" light and buzzer turned on intermittently. The temperature was fine, though, so I slowed down and checked the coolant. The level was fine. I added more, just in case.
When I turned the car off, I had been driving on the freeway for about half an hour, basically at constant speed ~70 mph. I forgot to wait before turning it off
! I had trouble starting it back up, and ended up doing a clutch drop start, which worked alright.
Now, the boost meter doesn't show any boost! Yet, I still feel like the car is pushing harder when I press down on the gas, like the turbo is still working, but the meter stays rock-bottom or goes up to about -50 mm Hg (about 3/4 of the way between "idle" (-200) and zero).
The car still runs without smoking, etc. The idle may be a bit low. When I started the car in neutral, it went up only to ~1.5 krpm instead of 3, but the engine was still warm... it did start up, though.
I guess I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic... does anybody know any good rotary mechanics in the Austin area?
Is it possible that the boost meter went bad? How about the coolant level sensor?
Also, it seems to have a tendency to grind going into 1st gear, even when stopped (it didn't do this at all when I tested it yesterday
). The shifter seems to be a short throw shifter, I can feel the lever working when I shift. The clutch works fine, but the pedal may be a bit "floaty" or "mushy." Air in the system, perhaps?
Does anybody have any other tips for a self-admitted rotary newbie?
I'll spend some time looking for FSM's, too. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rudy
It has about 130000 miles on it, and is bone stock, except the radio.
I'm new to rotary engines, and new to turbochargers... so... yeah. Maybe a little overeager.
I went down to San Antonio, and took a look at it yesterday, and everything seemed just fine. The turbos spooled all right, no smoke, everything seemed to work. I took it for a short test drive, had no problems. Gears were silent and smooth. No warning lights, brakes and clutch work.
I told the guy I wanted to buy it, and went back today. Again, no obvious problems, everything seems alright.
However, after I got it out on the freeway for about 20 minutes or so, I started noticing a few things that didn't happen yesterday. First: the "ADD COOLANT" light and buzzer turned on intermittently. The temperature was fine, though, so I slowed down and checked the coolant. The level was fine. I added more, just in case.
When I turned the car off, I had been driving on the freeway for about half an hour, basically at constant speed ~70 mph. I forgot to wait before turning it off
! I had trouble starting it back up, and ended up doing a clutch drop start, which worked alright.Now, the boost meter doesn't show any boost! Yet, I still feel like the car is pushing harder when I press down on the gas, like the turbo is still working, but the meter stays rock-bottom or goes up to about -50 mm Hg (about 3/4 of the way between "idle" (-200) and zero).
The car still runs without smoking, etc. The idle may be a bit low. When I started the car in neutral, it went up only to ~1.5 krpm instead of 3, but the engine was still warm... it did start up, though.
I guess I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic... does anybody know any good rotary mechanics in the Austin area?
Is it possible that the boost meter went bad? How about the coolant level sensor?
Also, it seems to have a tendency to grind going into 1st gear, even when stopped (it didn't do this at all when I tested it yesterday
). The shifter seems to be a short throw shifter, I can feel the lever working when I shift. The clutch works fine, but the pedal may be a bit "floaty" or "mushy." Air in the system, perhaps?Does anybody have any other tips for a self-admitted rotary newbie?
I'll spend some time looking for FSM's, too. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rudy
08-26-07, 05:30 PM
#2
Jpk3200
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
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First of all, congratulations on your new RX-7.
I'm willing to bet that the intermittent add coolant light and buzzer is caused by air bubbles in the system. You will have to burp the system properly.
I'm sure it's pretty hot in Austin, so I wouldn't expect it to put out a ton of boost in the heat. It's a pretty big difference for my '90 turbo if it's a cold (like < 50 degrees) day. The hot air may be heatsoaking the intercooler, which of course doesn't help. That's the problem with the TMIC is that it doesn't get a lot of air when sitting in traffic.
The cold start thing you were talking about should start up to 3k when cold, and probably lower if the engine is warm, but I never start my car in neutral. Something about seeing my engine rev up on it's own scares me.
I'm not sure what you mean about the shifter, but it should be a little notchy.
Take a look here for a lot of useful info.
http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/newowner.htm
I'm willing to bet that the intermittent add coolant light and buzzer is caused by air bubbles in the system. You will have to burp the system properly.
I'm sure it's pretty hot in Austin, so I wouldn't expect it to put out a ton of boost in the heat. It's a pretty big difference for my '90 turbo if it's a cold (like < 50 degrees) day. The hot air may be heatsoaking the intercooler, which of course doesn't help. That's the problem with the TMIC is that it doesn't get a lot of air when sitting in traffic.
The cold start thing you were talking about should start up to 3k when cold, and probably lower if the engine is warm, but I never start my car in neutral. Something about seeing my engine rev up on it's own scares me.
I'm not sure what you mean about the shifter, but it should be a little notchy.
Take a look here for a lot of useful info.
http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/newowner.htm
08-26-07, 05:32 PM
#3
First off, I'll give you as good a response as I can, because you've committed yourself to reading the FSM.
Secondly, I HIGHLY recommend reading the Frequently Asked Questions sticky at the top of the 2nd gen section.
As for the coolant issues, you're going to need to bleed your coolant system. While the engine is COMPLETELY cold, open the topmost coolant system cap. See if you can squeeze any bubbles out of the nearby hoses. Run the car for somewhere between 10 and 30 seconds, with the cap off, and see if any bubbles appear. Hopefully, you'll find some bubbles, and be able to add coolant and solve your problem. If that doesn't work, make sure your coolant sensor is good. I believe you just need to touch it to a ground to do that, but I'm not 100% sure.
Your start-up at 1.5k while the engine is warm is normal, As is the 3k cold start. Nothing to worry about there.
Secondly, I HIGHLY recommend reading the Frequently Asked Questions sticky at the top of the 2nd gen section.
As for the coolant issues, you're going to need to bleed your coolant system. While the engine is COMPLETELY cold, open the topmost coolant system cap. See if you can squeeze any bubbles out of the nearby hoses. Run the car for somewhere between 10 and 30 seconds, with the cap off, and see if any bubbles appear. Hopefully, you'll find some bubbles, and be able to add coolant and solve your problem. If that doesn't work, make sure your coolant sensor is good. I believe you just need to touch it to a ground to do that, but I'm not 100% sure.
Your start-up at 1.5k while the engine is warm is normal, As is the 3k cold start. Nothing to worry about there.
08-26-07, 06:06 PM
#4
When I bought my 87 TII it had a coolant leak. It would drip coolant from under the UIM. It would then find its way to the exhaust and burn up. Thus not leaving coolant on the ground.
Do you smell coolant after driving?
If not then there could be air in the system.
Have you done a compression check?
I would gut the first pre cat!! If it hasn't already fallen apart.
You will find that this site has all the answers you'll need.
Welcome to the club.
Do you smell coolant after driving?
If not then there could be air in the system.
Have you done a compression check?
I would gut the first pre cat!! If it hasn't already fallen apart.
You will find that this site has all the answers you'll need.
Welcome to the club.
10-30-07, 02:53 PM
#5
Rotary n00b
Thread Starter
update...
Alright, a bit of thread necromancy, but since it's my thread, I hope it's okay.
I hadn't been able to do much to the 7 for the last couple months, but I've just gotten back from MZM International (Austin, TX), so I have some information.
First: it failed emissions. By like a factor of five. HC and CO both way over limit.
So, I thought I'd take it in to somebody who knows rotaries and read here that MZM knows their stuff. I took it in last week for a general overlook.
The coolant problem was air in the system. I bled it. No more coolant problem.
The compression is 90 PSI front rotor, 95 PSI back, so not great, but not blown yet.
I don't have any way to really get under it here at my apartment, so they're going to do a few things (to the tune of ~$2k!!
)...
Plugs, fluids, etc.
Turbo inlet pipe needs replacing, as does blow-off valve hose.
O2 sensor may be replaced.
Fuel filter.
They want to replace the hub bearing assembly (another $2k with labor), too, but I told them to hold off.
And I may also need to replace the cats, if it doesn't pass after I do this stuff.
So, I guess we'll see what happens. If I can't get it legal here, I may have to sell it. I just can't afford to drop this much into it, let alone keep doing so.
Couple of odd things: they said use 93 octane.
also they said use 10W-30 for better emissions.
I guess I've learned a valuable lesson: it might be best to avoid rotaries until I have a garage to work on them!
Rudy
I hadn't been able to do much to the 7 for the last couple months, but I've just gotten back from MZM International (Austin, TX), so I have some information.
First: it failed emissions. By like a factor of five. HC and CO both way over limit.
So, I thought I'd take it in to somebody who knows rotaries and read here that MZM knows their stuff. I took it in last week for a general overlook.
The coolant problem was air in the system. I bled it. No more coolant problem.
The compression is 90 PSI front rotor, 95 PSI back, so not great, but not blown yet.
I don't have any way to really get under it here at my apartment, so they're going to do a few things (to the tune of ~$2k!!
)...Plugs, fluids, etc.
Turbo inlet pipe needs replacing, as does blow-off valve hose.
O2 sensor may be replaced.
Fuel filter.
They want to replace the hub bearing assembly (another $2k with labor), too, but I told them to hold off.
And I may also need to replace the cats, if it doesn't pass after I do this stuff.
So, I guess we'll see what happens. If I can't get it legal here, I may have to sell it. I just can't afford to drop this much into it, let alone keep doing so.
Couple of odd things: they said use 93 octane.
also they said use 10W-30 for better emissions.
I guess I've learned a valuable lesson: it might be best to avoid rotaries until I have a garage to work on them!
Rudy
10-30-07, 05:12 PM
#7
Rotary n00b
Thread Starter
Hmmm... you think it's too much? I guess you could be right.
I looked around at various threads here for a good rotary guy here in Austin, and I kept seeing these guys come up, with much positive feedback. Was that wrong? Does anybody have anything to say about MZM?
Does anybody know of somebody else in Austin who knows their way around rotaries? I'd hate to bring it somewhere and have somebody screw it up. Has anyone had specific problems with a non-rotary mechanic messing things up?
(To be honest, I'd much rather do the work myself, but don't have anywhere to do it.)
re-rx7, unfortunately, I've already signed on the dotted line for this set of repairs. Moreover, it may end up a bit less than I stated. The work to be done was a bit more than what I listed too (including a few hundred for several hours of thorough inspection), but I may PM you to ask a few questions. If I'm not happy with what I get out of it, I'll definitely look somewhere else. They do a lot of performance stuff, and it looks like they have a lot of clients. We'll see what happens. Their prices, when itemized, seemed reasonable--for example, they quoted me for a few parts I had independently priced, and the prices were pretty close.
Oh well, que sera sera for now...
I looked around at various threads here for a good rotary guy here in Austin, and I kept seeing these guys come up, with much positive feedback. Was that wrong? Does anybody have anything to say about MZM?
Does anybody know of somebody else in Austin who knows their way around rotaries? I'd hate to bring it somewhere and have somebody screw it up. Has anyone had specific problems with a non-rotary mechanic messing things up?
(To be honest, I'd much rather do the work myself, but don't have anywhere to do it.)
re-rx7, unfortunately, I've already signed on the dotted line for this set of repairs. Moreover, it may end up a bit less than I stated. The work to be done was a bit more than what I listed too (including a few hundred for several hours of thorough inspection), but I may PM you to ask a few questions. If I'm not happy with what I get out of it, I'll definitely look somewhere else. They do a lot of performance stuff, and it looks like they have a lot of clients. We'll see what happens. Their prices, when itemized, seemed reasonable--for example, they quoted me for a few parts I had independently priced, and the prices were pretty close.
Oh well, que sera sera for now...
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10-31-07, 12:11 AM
#10
Hi, my name's Rudy Kohn and I just bought a 1987 Turbo II!
It has about 130000 miles on it, and is bone stock, except the radio.
I'm new to rotary engines, and new to turbochargers... so... yeah. Maybe a little overeager.
I went down to San Antonio, and took a look at it yesterday, and everything seemed just fine. The turbos spooled all right, no smoke, everything seemed to work. I took it for a short test drive, had no problems. Gears were silent and smooth. No warning lights, brakes and clutch work.
I told the guy I wanted to buy it, and went back today. Again, no obvious problems, everything seems alright.
However, after I got it out on the freeway for about 20 minutes or so, I started noticing a few things that didn't happen yesterday. First: the "ADD COOLANT" light and buzzer turned on intermittently. The temperature was fine, though, so I slowed down and checked the coolant. The level was fine. I added more, just in case.
When I turned the car off, I had been driving on the freeway for about half an hour, basically at constant speed ~70 mph. I forgot to wait before turning it off ! I had trouble starting it back up, and ended up doing a clutch drop start, which worked alright.
Now, the boost meter doesn't show any boost! Yet, I still feel like the car is pushing harder when I press down on the gas, like the turbo is still working, but the meter stays rock-bottom or goes up to about -50 mm Hg (about 3/4 of the way between "idle" (-200) and zero).
The car still runs without smoking, etc. The idle may be a bit low. When I started the car in neutral, it went up only to ~1.5 krpm instead of 3, but the engine was still warm... it did start up, though.
I guess I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic... does anybody know any good rotary mechanics in the Austin area?
Is it possible that the boost meter went bad? How about the coolant level sensor?
Also, it seems to have a tendency to grind going into 1st gear, even when stopped (it didn't do this at all when I tested it yesterday ). The shifter seems to be a short throw shifter, I can feel the lever working when I shift. The clutch works fine, but the pedal may be a bit "floaty" or "mushy." Air in the system, perhaps?
Does anybody have any other tips for a self-admitted rotary newbie?
I'll spend some time looking for FSM's, too. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rudy
It has about 130000 miles on it, and is bone stock, except the radio.
I'm new to rotary engines, and new to turbochargers... so... yeah. Maybe a little overeager.
I went down to San Antonio, and took a look at it yesterday, and everything seemed just fine. The turbos spooled all right, no smoke, everything seemed to work. I took it for a short test drive, had no problems. Gears were silent and smooth. No warning lights, brakes and clutch work.
I told the guy I wanted to buy it, and went back today. Again, no obvious problems, everything seems alright.
However, after I got it out on the freeway for about 20 minutes or so, I started noticing a few things that didn't happen yesterday. First: the "ADD COOLANT" light and buzzer turned on intermittently. The temperature was fine, though, so I slowed down and checked the coolant. The level was fine. I added more, just in case.
When I turned the car off, I had been driving on the freeway for about half an hour, basically at constant speed ~70 mph. I forgot to wait before turning it off
! I had trouble starting it back up, and ended up doing a clutch drop start, which worked alright.Now, the boost meter doesn't show any boost! Yet, I still feel like the car is pushing harder when I press down on the gas, like the turbo is still working, but the meter stays rock-bottom or goes up to about -50 mm Hg (about 3/4 of the way between "idle" (-200) and zero).
The car still runs without smoking, etc. The idle may be a bit low. When I started the car in neutral, it went up only to ~1.5 krpm instead of 3, but the engine was still warm... it did start up, though.
I guess I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic... does anybody know any good rotary mechanics in the Austin area?
Is it possible that the boost meter went bad? How about the coolant level sensor?
Also, it seems to have a tendency to grind going into 1st gear, even when stopped (it didn't do this at all when I tested it yesterday
). The shifter seems to be a short throw shifter, I can feel the lever working when I shift. The clutch works fine, but the pedal may be a bit "floaty" or "mushy." Air in the system, perhaps?Does anybody have any other tips for a self-admitted rotary newbie?
I'll spend some time looking for FSM's, too. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rudy
2) Why are you worried about letting the car idle a bit before turning it off? Do you do this on ANY other car that you own?
3) You got raped by that mechanic. I got a full vacuum line replacement, the wheel bearings repacked, and a full tune up (sparks, filters, fluids, the whole nine) for about $1k. That was with Gotham Racing, don't get fooled by some guys again!
4) If you were going to sell it, how much?