I think I might just do that. I've been meaning to put together a table of differences between the NA and TII harnesses, but #1. I haven't got around to it yet, and #2. My roommate took off for a couple of weeks with the 87-88 FSM. I can still do the 89-91 table.

I think I may even have the 86-88 FSM in pdf somewhere.

I'm kinda bored tonight, so I may just do a writeup this evening.

 

i have done a gxl t2 swap with na tranny runs great but i have a high idle ,ihave done all the bac checks and tps ,it will only run at 1500rpm i do not have the cruise control hooked up so i am wandering if i need that cable from the t2 it may sound silly but if you could help me get my idle down without it dying i would appreciate it

 

My setup is a no-frills emmissions hater. My car is set up for performance only (i.e. no A/C, P/S, etc) by choice. The only electrical items on my car are:

Injectors
TPS
AFM
knock sensor
O2 sensor
water thermosensor
intake air thermosensor

With just those minimum devices and everthing else blocked off, I've got a puuurfect 750RPM idle.

Will your car not idle below 1500RPM, or will it not go below 1500RPM period?

If it won't idle correctly any lower than 1500RPM, check for vacuum leaks. That's the #1 culprit. You may need to adjust the air/fuel mixture - located on the passenger's front strut tower for 86-88 and integrated into the AFM on 89-91 cars. You'll have to remove a blind cap on the 89-91 cars.

If the idle won't physically drop below 1500, you may have something holding the throttle plates open.

A can of carb cleaner sprayed around intake gaskets, TB, etc may locate your vacuum leak if you have one.

 

very nice! i like it but would still like to turbo my na engine and beef up the drivetrane just so i still have the high compression.. Very clean looking, I like the blue tape

 

my 87se-tII is almost done and It's NOT that much harder than a normal engine NA to NA swap

 

Ok, hi, im visiting from the drifting portion of the 240sx community. i am pricing things out, and debating an S13 silvia coupe vs. a Turbo FC. The '88 FC i found is $800, N/A, and if i did the TII swap, how much head ache and $$ will be spent? i am also considering an SR20DET swap for the S13, and am bugeted for that. I would jump right in to that realm, only it would require more mods to make my S13 look and perform how i want it to vs. the FC. (Silvia front ends are like a grand, plus 500 for a K-Style bumper, 3000 for the SR clip, then coilovers, paint, seats, car, etc...) The FC may be a better choice.

Can I make a reliable turbo-ed FC drift car for under $9000? I am very mechanically competent, adn my dad is a mechanic, plus i have our house/garage/tools/HIM to help with this project, whether it be S13 or FC.

Plus, I saw some dope cars in Japan (I just got back) My favorite drift cars over there were a boro S13 coupe, a red FC, and a bust R32 Skyline GTS-T. i have 2 of the 3 options here in the states...

thanks for dealing with the NooB Q's, I feel like a jerk hating Noobie questions on the FreshAlloy boards, and here I'm like "Duuuhhh.....I dunno....."

 

Ok, I forgot to add: Im interested in the 92-95 13B-REW (FD3S) motor. Hehehe. Is that not a direct swap? Sorry if that is an ignorant question but with 240's, '88-'02 SR20DETs are all direct swap, bolt in jobs. Ok, thanks again.

 

Dorifto,the 13b-rew is not a direct swap.The motor mount are in different locations on the motor.It hes been done but it requires some custom work.It's best to stay with the13bt TII engine any within the specific year groups(87-88 and 89-91) because they made quite a few changes in 89 including the ECU,so that makes it more difficult to pu an 89 TII motor in an 87-88 car as I believe some of the wiring to the ecu is also different between the two year groups.For you since you don't have an RX-7 yet I would suggest that you just find a turbo car to start with you would probably be better off.

 

Thank you so much for the info. Would relocating the motor mounts just be cutting and re welding into a new position? i would not mind doing that... but i suspect that there is more involved...Does the 13b-rew harness plug in or adapt easily to the FC chassis? Is the driveshaft or tranny different? Im thinking, since we DID get the 13b-rew in the states, i could just use that wiring harness and that ecu, plus that tranny, couldn't I?

Thanks again for the help.

 

How much work did you guys do on your swap, im just starting mine, ive got the motor almost out, just need to actualy "pull it", the entire wiring harness is out (and for sale along with the n326 ecu) i pulled the entire dash so i can lay the new dash harnesses and do some cleaning

thats pretty much all i have done so far, now i need to buy T2 stuff and start putting in it

 

The FC motor mounts are on the intermediate housing.The mount on the 13b-rew are on the rear housing so it requires an adpter to be made to attach the 13b-rew mounting locations on the block to the mounts in the FC.A TII transmission will work fine.You'll have to use the ecu and harness from a 3rd gen.It can be done but you can get alot of power out of the 13bt and the single turbo is less complicated than the twins of the 13b-rew.I think I heard there may be some issues with the twins fitting in the FC chassis as well.It has been done but it's not easy.There is someone on here that has done it but I can't remmember thier name.Maybe try doing a search.

 

Just wondering where you found a TII engine for 400 bucks. What all did that come with?

 

I got the engine from a local who did a J-Spec swap just because he wanted to do it. The motor puls 15in of vacuum and in the original car would light up the rear tires in 2nd with no problem.

It was a complete longblock with no accessories. It did come with the turbo and intercooler and such.

I'm pulling the engine back out this weekend to do a port job and freshen the apex seals.

 

Well, all I have to say is damn you. Damn you to hell. I need turbo! Must go faster...Nice work tho, bravo. I'm quite jealous.

 

The engine mount positions are off by a LOT.&nbsp Basically you need to fab or weld something in to adapt to the FD engine.&nbsp The other option is to redrill the FD center housing and adapt the 13BT oil pan (with "minor" fitment problems with the front oil cover) to use the stock 13BT engine mounts.&nbsp One of the BIG "problems" with running stock FD engine mounts is their replacement costs - ever priced a set of stcok 13B-REW engine mounts from the Mazda dealer???

Stock 13B-REW engine harness?&nbsp That's not too bad.

Grab the ECU and engine harness.&nbsp Nevermind about the transmission - the FC turbo transmission is basically the same thing.&nbsp You'll need to run the FC clutch system, as the FD clutch system was a (STUPID) pull-type clutch which is next-to-impossible to retrofit into the FC (turbo) trans.


-Ted

 

HEY I NEED HELP WITH THIS ECU STUFF IM SWAPING OUT MY 90 NA MOTOR FOR A 88 TURBO AND THE TRUBO HARNESS DOESNT FIT MY CARS, IT SAYS SOMEHTING ABOUT USING THE STOCK HARNESS OR SOMETHING WHAT DO I NEED A S5 ECU AND HARNESS OR SPLICE THATCRAP????? PLEASE HELP!!!

 

how do i addd the knock sensor ?

 

Hey...I am planning to start a TII swap pretty soon too. But I am having trouble finding parts for it.

rebuilt 87 turbo engine with porting, turbo and manifolds, injectors, wiring, sensors, waterpump etc. intercooler, ecu, knock control unit, boost sensor, throttle cable,

Thats what i can get right now....So basicly just the complete engine....I stilll need all the drive tran stuff. Anyone know places i could get this stuff? I am having no luck finding anything...I have searched a few junkyards and no luck but gonna keep trying that...anyways just info if you know where i can get this stuff . thanks - jeremy

 

#1 all caps suggests that you are shouting

#2 you probably would have gotten better response by starting a new thread.

#3 You should be using a 89-91 turbo motor so you don't have to rewire the whole car.

#4 going backwards with an engine swap is illegal in many states.

#5 if you really are going to try and use a 88 motor in your 90 car you will need all 88 stuff like harness, ECU, knock box, etc.

#6 the proper harnesses for the car will have the wiring for the knock sensor, however if you are convinced you must go ahead with your foolish swap, then you will need to wire in with a custom harness and change pins/plugs or swap every single harness and most of the electrics in the car.

 

You would want to post in the for sale/wanted section to find parts.