Didnt you read my last post about making me feel paranoid?!! I'd use a laughing smilie but it doesnt work LOL

I'll definately give feedback on the spool time. I was advised by my tuner to not port the wg or I'd get more lag. He said I'd probably get full boost by 3500rpm or so but we'll see. This is all based on what he told me and he's a well known rotary tuner here in the bay area so I trust his word and judgement. BTW I'm going to be tuning with a AP Power FC instead of an SAFC2 for anybody who's wondering.

 

That was beautiful man, my eye watered up and everything. You bolt that proper turbo up yet?

 

My $0.02 on your HYBRID.(even though you didn't ask, but this is a public forum )

It looks good, but you have a 60-1 compressor not a V-trim. The 60-1 is actually BIGGER then a v-trim and flows substantially more. You will not get 400 to the wheels with a hybrid safely, even though the comp wheel can flow it. Look for 350 tops unless you run ridiculous boost levels over 20 psi and a ice / water intercooler, even then your over spinning the turbo and are really pushing your luck. The turbine if it is a P-trim is good for 600 HP yes on a small displacement engine, but not on a rotary especially with the stock turbine housing. The combination of the stock restrictive turbine housing, manifold and smaller TO4B .6 A/R compressor housing are the limiters on your overall power, but both will make it spool quicker, hence one of the reasons for the popularity of a HYBRID (aside from the money and ease of installation verses a full T4). Last note...... your going to have MASSIVE boost creep. You absolutely need to port the waste gate, and even after porting it many many people are having boost creep issues. BLUETII comes to mind. He’s essentially running the same hybrid (60-1 comp, p-trim turbine) and had to modify the HELL out of his waste gate system and add an external gate to get it to regulate boost to reasonable levels.

If this has the crappy spool issues of previous turbos this company makes, then it might not creep do to just really tight fitting rear piston ring (could be a band-aid to keep these from puking oil, which would make these late spoolers, and also would make them crap out within months).

Just trying to inform you and keep out misinformation threads

~Mike……….

 

^ I dont mind constructive criticism at all. I just know what I was told from my own reliable source, but we'll see how things play out once I start the boost and get it tuned (hopefully within the next few weeks).

I'll post a pic of it installed for anybody whos curious later tonight. The fit was very close and was almost hitting the LIM.

 

The only way porting the wastegate would cause lag is if you ported beyond the flapper, causing an exhasut leak.

Some things aren't so much 'tunerz KnOWLgeDgE' as just turbo common sense.

 

Ask and you shall receive.

I promise it'll be cleaner in the next few weeks after I get rid of PS/AC and get the Power FC and have my IC pipes polished.



Close up. Note how close it is to the LIM

 

why does my hybrid have 8 blades on the compressor?

 

Ooooo, its so shiny haha. At the next meet I must see the difference first hand. It definately looks like a fun project when/if my turbo ever craps out.

AC and P/S is quite nice.... with the koyo Radiator ive been driving around using the AC whenever I feel like and the temps raise maybe a degree or two... But this is California, so AC issnt exactly helpful unless you're driving to sevenstock.

Looks good! I can't wait to see some dyno sheets.

 

here's mine, almost looks the same, except mines isnt as shiny.

<img> www.geocities.com/aznkid2060/P1010183.JPG </img>

<img> www.geocities.com/aznkid2060/P1010184.JPG </img>

eric

 

Why not?

Almost all T04B wheels have 8 blades, with the exception of the 60-1 wheel (has 7 blades).

 

why is your comp housing angled differently from the stock one

 

I thought he already said because it was hitting the lim??? Anyways nice engine bay man! Keep up the good work and I'm pulling for you man hopefully the turbo kicks ***!

 

Chiming in kinda late, but I don't think the blanket will hurt anything on shutdown. The part of the turbo that's vulnerable to heat damage is the bearing cartridge, and it's not covered. The hotside housing itself is just a lump of iron.

 

Thanks Brian. My AC doesnt work and I've already with driving with no belt on the PS so I might as well get rid of it and clean up the engine bay a little more. Yea hopefully I can hit the dyno before the end of the month.

Hurry up and finish the break in!

Yea it was off about a 1/2" so I had to clock the compressor housing to get it to match up with my IC pipe.

Thanks man. I'm rooting for you too. Get some numbers down!

Yea I dont think the blanket will hurt anything either, only benefits I feel.

 

Holy F*cking **** the car pulls hard! I've never been thrown back in my seat in my car like that before. I just did a couple of 1st and 2nd gear pulls. No lag at all. I hit 0.7kg/cm2 at the top of 1st and just under 1.0kg/cm2 at the top of 2nd with the AVCR off. I didnt want to try full throttle in 3rd gear and up. Looks like I'll be pulling the turbo again and porting the wastegate.

Do you guys think I should install my 1000cc's right now or just wait until I get the Power FC. I have 720s with the SAFC2 corrections set back to 0% right now just for safety reasons.

 

Update:

I ported the hell out of the wg and grinded the top of the flapper door and and the inside of the back plate. No more creeping now.

One issue though. I found out that the flapper was not being allowed to open fully even before the wg porting. This was due to the fact that I had to clock the compressor housing. When I did this the wg actuator rotated with it kinking the arm slightly against the hole the arm comes. I clocked it back closer to how it was originally and the flapper door opened fully but now was getting stuck open. Tried shifting the brackets holding the actuator but either way there was an issue.

Finally I got decided to just swing the entire actuator assembly towards the ground letting it only being held on my one bolt. WG actuator operates fine and opens an ungodly amount. Only thing now is that the door slightly rattles at low rpm and is slightly open at times due to the door rattling. Need to figure out some way to get some more tension on the actuator rod. Anybody else have this problem? I only know of one other person who had rattling from the wg flapper door after installing a hybrid. Other than that when I can build enough boost it flies.

 

You could always do what the BNR guys have been doing, and drilling another hole in the arm closer to the actuator and using that hole instead of the stock one.

 

Sounds good I'll try that when I have a chance. How much closer 1 cm? I'm assuming the force from the wg actuator will let it open like normal with extra tension? Thanks sonicrat.

 

I think you lose a little bit of how far it opens, but usually the wastegate hits something before the arm is fully extended, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. HH and Jrat both had threads about this earlier, I did mine about 1.25cm or so down.

 

I would see if you get a friend to look up your AFR's for you with a dyno somewhere. I take it you havent had time to get it tuned yet? Thats going to be the best bet to tell you if you need the larger injectors. Unless you have a wideband, then of course take a peek at that guy and see if its rich or going to pop with some WOT runs.

 

Cool thanks. Actually I dont think I have a problem with the flapper hitting anything. With the way the actuator is positioned and the flapper arm pryed outward slightly in conjunction with the massive grinding it does I dont think the door hits the backplate. I can double check to be sure with some pressurized air when I activate the wg. Thanks again.

 

nice to hear your turbo is kicking ***! I still can't get mine to go to 15psi even with the prefec-b II all the way at 100%. Probably my lower compression and non ported engine. Anyways when you drill the hole in the wastegate actuator arm further down it really helps put alot of tension on the flapper so this should help out your problem big time. With the added power of the hybrid that stock actuator just can't really handle it that well. Anyways get some numbers so I can drool

 

thats me -_-

i gotta drill the bracket that holds the wg actuator as well, it rattles still.

eric.

 

I'm trying my best to get everything set before I dyno. My tuner just got back in town so hopefully I can get a street tune this weekend. I should really do another compression test but last time I checked after 1000 miles on my REMAN I had 125psi on both rotors with stock ports. Only about 4k miles on the engine now.

 

yummy new engine I'll be there soon enough. 125psi, that is insane! Nice numbers!