fc3s.drifter

Suspension (Very Stiff)
Tokico Blue Shocks
Racking Beat Race Springs
Cork Sport Front & Rear Sturt Bar

Rims & Tires
Set 4 Black Rums From Turbo II with Toyo Proxes ra-1205/55/16

Brakes
Slotted Rotors (Front & Rear)
4-Piston Front Calipers From Turbo II
Rear Calipers From Turbo II
Stell-Braided Brake Lines

Power / Drivetrain
13b Engine rebuilt by Mazda Facorty
APEXi N-1 Exhaust
HKS Powerflow Intake
Mind Train Exhaust Header
Mind Train Hi-Flow Car
Limited Slip Diff From Turbo II
ACT Clutch
Racing Beat Light-Weight Flywheel

i also took out powersteering and added on just pully's

if any of you guys got any better tips. please share it with me, i'm kinda stuck at what to do next hehe =P

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

TII swap.

fc3s.drifter

yea i was thinking that. but kinda just wanna stay n/a for now till i blow this motor.

Optics

Make sure all the reliability is there on the stock parts... change vac lines, tranny fluid, diff fluid, brake fluid, coolant (flush while your at it... prestone makes some nice products for this), oil. I like all royal purple synthetic but anything new is better than the used stuff its replaceing . Coolant hoses, front ball joints, tie rod ends, make sure the rear control links and lateral links are in good shape, oil injection lines arent cracked / plugged (maybe run a little premix just to be safe, or ditch the system and always run premix... then you can run full synthetic oil ), have injectors cleaned, get an alignment, check brake pad life, make sure your six ports are working (if not changed to electronic activation), new front and rear wheel bearings, lube up your door hinges / sunroof tract, reground some of the major ground points (search), visual inspection on all the suspension stuff to make sure nothings bent / broken (the rear shock mounting nuts were really bent (close to breaking) with the oem fasteners on my car), make sure you've depowered your power rack the right way (as per the flying miata's writup), anything less and you are damaging the rack and risking your car on the road... or just get a manual rack.

For performance add standalone ems, itb intake, lower resistance plug wires, msd 8207 coils (very optional, but if you do get some kind of cdi ignition amplifier), pineapple six port sleeves and electronicly activated six ports, adjustable swaybar endlinks (maybe a beefier front sway bar), camber plates for the front and adjusters for the rear, replace dtss bushings, front a arm bushings, rear trailng arm bushings, diff mounts, subframe mounts, engine mounts, strip out sound deadening, relocate the battery, gear the rear to 4.33, electric fan, electric waterpump, aluminum rad, strip all emmisions / rats nest, and if your willing to open it up... bridgeport on the motor, and about a thousand other things that require opening up the motor to do (oil mods, etc).

After that anything visual / functional that appeals to you, new carpet, paint the dash, replace any broken interior pieces, s5 tails with difuser removed, s5 molding, wing of your choice, lightweight hood, repair any dents / rust, drop all the suspension and recoat the undercairage in with new undercairage coating, remove the engine and all accesories and repaint the engine bay (remove fenders / bumper to get at everything), remake the wiring harness to remove anything that is no longer being used / add in any accessories you have added (suggest having sterio / alarm / ems / gauges / accessories of your choice in place before this), new seats, short shifter, relocate alternator, pineapple racing oil pan, throw in some interior gauges, and go get a paint job .

And dont forget the most important part... post your buildup thread on rx7club and send a pm to aaron so he can add it to his projects sticky in the archive .

(I know i'm too lazy to make proper sentences... sorry)

fc3s.drifter

ahaha no these are really good tips. thanks a bunch =P

that nissan guy

iTrader: (2)

WOW.... either you think really fast or you have wayyyy too much time on your hands lol

Optics

Forgot to mention, for reliability the fuel filter in tank should be cleaned / inspected (can drop a walbro 255lph pump in while you have it open, suggest rewiring the pump at the same time). Some will say that the 255 pump is way over kill but f it, it doesnt hurt anything else, its cheep (relitively), allows room for many future upgrades, and replaces a possible 20 year old failure point with the world renown and quality controled pump of walbro... no i'm not a dealer, just a fan. If the in tank filter is clogged at all then maybe cleaning the tank is a good idea (can take it off and have it striped / sealed by a local shop for a fee).

The inline fuel filter on the firewall is easy to change and often overlooked, and very cheep.

Make sure your pulsation dampener isnt leaking and replace any old fuel lines with new oem (or ss lines using an inline a1000, swirl pot, and aeromotive fpr, and kg fuel rails if you really want to go crazy).

Can unbolt the oil cooler and have it cleaned by a local radiator shop. They bend the fins back straight and pressure test it for leaks, its around 50 bucks and 30 mins labour... unless you polish it, lol. This cooled me down about 10C (also polish it if you want, it comes out VERY shiny and blinging). Corksport makes some ss oil cooler lines with rub protection in all the nice places, and they only take about 10 mins to bolt on.

Can clean up your intake tract a little and if you remove PVC with the emisions and install a catch can to the exposed oil filer nipple. This would make sure your engine bay stays shiny and your rear tires stay sticky .

Make sure you have your HKS filter clean (not sure if they have instructions on cleaning, but if it cant be cleaned then a new element every 10k or so). Not sure if you built a cold air box for that intake or not, but if not you may be loosing power due to higher intake temps (see recent threads in this section for more detailed description and some math showing this).

Check the boots on your rear driveaxles for tears and if found replace accordingly.

A engine torque brace can make a nice difference in responsiveness (rb, or search for custom setups), and also make for a smoother ride and gear engagement. As can a lighter weight flywheel (not sure of the one you have on now, but mazdatrix makes a very very light alluminum one... for a price. And i know it sucks spending money on the same part twice, lol).

Next time you do any clutch work a turbo TObearing is a drop in upgrade, and not much more than the NA one, but much beefier. SS clutch line is also cheep and easy to install.

Other performance items to consider are lightweight driveshaft, kaaz lsd unit, miata gears in the tranny (I wouldnt recomend this particular one), nitrous, advancing the timeing (can run methanol and really go crazy here), and of course theres always sticker tires .

If you get to that point and still arent satisfied with performance then its time to get one of those turblown manifolds and a gt42 turbo, ect. ect. ect. If the chassis isnt to your liking with then a roll cage and some bilstein / olins suspension components would be the next step (along with foam hardening / 5 point harnesses, stripped interior, lexan windows... basicly nothing streetable).

And thanks nissan guy, I like to think i think fast, but then again i'm at work and today i do infact have waaay to much spare time, lol.

Hope this stuff gives you some ideas / inspiration to keep wrenching fc3s.drifter

** Edited to defend my stance on the walbro on an NA **

Optics

Theres a thread in the archives called "building a beefy NA", lots of good ideas in there. I'd suggest reading almost every one of the archived posts and aaron cakes site for some ideas. The mazdatrix site and fc3spro.com have alot of great info as well. There are alot of small things that can make their way on the todo list by spending some time searching those places.

USS CJ

you REMOVED ps from a "drift" car.


smart.


wait...


retarded.

Optics

Maybe he's a body builder and manual steering was just as easy for him (I dont know where "tacoma" is, but I know it sure sounds like its packed full of guys with arms bigger than my waist that wrestle bulls while I'm watching TV)... or maybe he liked the precise feedback of a manual rack that the ps system dampens. Or maybe he's trying to reform his drifting ways and get into some real road racing and wanted to eliminate the weight / failure point, or maybe he's getting into drag raing and removed it for the same reasons.

The 20 year old power steering system on this car can, for some, leave something to be desired. Especially if some of its components are in less than perfect shape, and repair bills for the system drain money from the mod fund.

As long as its not interfering with concentration while driving removing it isnt a bad choice, more of a personal preference. As long as you depower the rack the right way and dont just take the pully off, then it leaves very nice feeling steering, unless you spend a lot of time in parking lots.

Turbo2FC3S

iTrader: (1)

Your suspension setup is FAR from being "VERY STIFF."

Tokico Blues are pretty crappy shocks to use if you're trying to road race the car in any way. They are just stock replacements and should mainly be used on street cars that have blown shocks and that are just daily driven.

Racing Beat Springs are also pretty crappy. The spring rates aren't that much stiffer than stock, so they're very soft and dont offer the response you need for racing.

The only thing thats really making your car handle good is the tires you're running. But even then, they're really thin for your car and the sidewall is kinda big. On a FC, I would at least run 225/45's. That is what I would run up front, and in the rear, I'd run 235-245's. Obviously if you go wider, then you'll have more traction, but that all depends on your rims.

There is still A LOT you can do to your suspension like coilovers with aggressive spring rates, camber plates, sway bars, adjustable end links, bushings, rear camber adjuster, under braces, roll cages, there's still quite a lot that you can do. your suspension setup to me seems pretty much like a stock setup. I've ran Tokico Blues, I've also ran RE Amemiya Adjustable shocks with RE Amemiya springs that have much stiffer spring rates than Racing Beat and that setup still doesn't compare at all to what i'm running now. If you really want to be competitive, you NEED coilovers for sure.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Make sure to add driver mod to that list... : The car sounds like a blast, you should be satisfied with the performance for the most part. What do you think you can improve on the car? Have you ever tracked it? Mod it to fit your driving style, not so your mod list gets bigger...don't mod it to the point where you can't figure out whats making you faster/slower. What are your goals with it? road racing/autox-ing/mountain racing/ or errr...making smoke/drifting? It all depends on what kind of driving you do with the car.

fc3s.drifter

thanks guys for all ur wonderful tips =P now i got a better idea on where to go with my 7 thanks fellas =P

Jizneremie33

for drifting you would definatly like some stiffer suspension. I have 450ft. lb. springs in the front and 350 in the rear with kyb agx's on full stiff, and I consider it to be to soft. Driving style greatly dictates suspension modification though

Rotary_Knight

iTrader: (4)

This may be a bit late but I'm offended by this. I have no PS and been drifting for a couple years like that. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know once you get up to speed the steering is light as a feather. And I've done road racing without PS too on a track with tight turns. Sure your arms are a bit sore but you cant be a *****, man up!

niburu

iTrader: (1)

um...no

hatemy7

stance coilover suspension best $900 i ever spent

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

swap in a pport 20b

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

how did you like the pulleys?

red_s5_fc3s

+1

RX7KENN

LOL whats this forum coming to...

13b_cookie_monster

iTrader: (14)

just do you're brakes and suspension and try it out as is... but do a tune up with plugs, wires, transmission drain and fill, differential, coolant, oil change... then see how it feels... then upgrade with what you think is necessary... i run on drift specs and they're not as bad but I got to wait to try them out at a event