ddub

Yah, what I'm doing here isn't exactly something I'd suggest to someone new or inexperienced with rotary engine building/modifying as their first DIY project. Your motor only has 70k? Just start with simple stuff, have fun, and learn. That's the best you can do for yourself, for now. Or pay someone else to do similar things that I have and spend a lot more than I did

swanton187

so far I'm sticking with the simple stuff of gettting gas millage like plugs, plug wires, o2 sensor, and cleaned my K&N....but I love the rotary and don't ever want a piston again

ddub

Looks like you're learning quickly

RETed

Hey dDuB, you might want to be careful with all the RTV!

I would try and get as much of that stuff "squeezing" out off the engine as much as possible.
If it's squeezing out on the outside of the engine, it's also (most likely) squeezing out inside too.
Those little "globs" can fall off and floating around in the oil and coolant passages - not good.
Once the RTV dries, you can easily rub them with your fingers, and they should fall off pretty easily.

Try to get the ones underneath where you sealed the "legs" of the housings - these will tend to fall into the oil pan and get sucked up by the oil pick-up (dunno if you sealed the oil pan up or not ).

Same thing with the thermostat neck - that stuff will fall off and can clog your radiator internals.

The ones external next to the exhaust ports will eventuall turn to dust from the high heat, so they are not too big of a deal.

I guess it's just a pet peeve of mine seeing them in pics...


-Ted

felixwankel88

looking great, its a bad thing when u can intsall a engine in 45 mins hehe , when is the megaaquirt harness gonna be done, when we gonna hear it fire up

ddub

Yah Ted, I went a little RTV craz heh. But everything that squeezed into the oil pan and such I removed by hand already, so I'm way ahead of you

Everything on the outside of the engine I said F it and left, I don't care too much about cosmetics (one reason why the blue irons I had from a core were left blue and not cleaned/repainted on the outside).

ddub

The rest of this week I'm working on the manifolds, fuel, relocated battery (per Ted's writeup), and intake most likely.

Next week the harness will most likely be built and it'll be fired up (if all goes well).

ddub

Making more progress!

So last night/this afternoon I did the battery relocation per RETed's how-to on his site http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BATTRELO/battrelo.html

It was extremely easy actually, especially with the nice write-up telling you exactly what parts you need. He suggests 30 feet of wire, which is a good amount and depending on the route you take with wire and where you put the battery, you might need. I only ended up using about 15 feet myself, little over actually, and still have a little over 15 feet I no longer need I bought 0 gauge (1/0) wire for this, he suggests no smaller than 2, and I used circuit breakers like he did rather than fuses, which you can if you choose. Well, how about some pics?





I used an Optima Yellow Top 51R because they are nice and small and not very heavy. The box is larger than the battery so after I was done I filled it with some foam padding I had laying around to make the battery be stuck in place and more secure.










Well that's enough, just showing that I really AM making some progress and not dicking around

All in all the relocating was quite simple, and to be honest, the HARDEST part of this whole project was feeding 0 gauge wire through the firewall... That wasn't very fun, but oh well.

Also mounted my alternator in the relocated spot today


And one of these days, the beast will live again...

BuujinBejiita

iTrader: (4)

yah that green gunk in the motor is a bad sign, when i blew my grand am up i check the oil and it was all that milky gunk, upon later discovery the damn intake manifold cracked, and of course it was right after my autoshop teacher told me that that happens to them but its very rare, tha bastard cursed me.....but great work man your a role model lol

ddub

Haha thanks, yah that oil/coolant gunk earlier on in this thread was pretty cool to see when tearing down the motor.

RETed

Boy, does that look familiar!

Nice job!

Wow, I dunno how you did it with such little wire, as I started out with 21 feet of 1/0 stuff, and I had 2 feet left over!
Man, I think I got shorted (pun intended) with the 21 feet of wire or something!

Try and see if you can make some kinda "cover" for the + exposed terminals, especially the ones on the circuit breaker.
I have a piece of radiator hose split down the center and zip tied into place to keep stuff from accidently falling on the terminals.
You can make fancy plastic covers for them if you got the time and resources later on.
Most race techs (i.e. NASA in NorCal) will fail you with any exposed + terminals.
The split rubber radiator hose was one of their tricks to pass their inspections.



-Ted

ddub

Hehe, it better look familiar! Your how-to guided me well

Thanks.

I'm actually not sure how much wire I was even given lol. I ordered 30 feet and had 15 left over, so assuming they gave me 30 feet I used 15, but I guess they could've given me more or something. Who knows

Yah I was thinking about the cover, just because I didn't want them exposed like that. I'll figure something out, I like your hose idea haha.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Heres a relevant question, does your battery kill switch have to be external/exposed for racing? I know at PIR here (portland international raceway) I need a kill switch with my relocated battery.

ddub

According to what I've heard at pacific raceways up here in WA, yes. But I don't know the official rules, I don't care about the drag strip a whole lot, only been there a couple times with the 7, and I haven't been to any auto-x's yet so I don't know a lot of the rules.

88IntegraLS

the couple times I raced in woodburn, they didn't even look for my relocated battery despite it not being in the engine bay. I raced both times w/o a kill switch.

*edit* when autocrossing, I've never had trouble passing tech either. The box I made is fully sealed and the battery is held down with a metal strap bolted to the floor. They always were more concerned with it being bolted down tightly than if the box was airtight. They didn't look for a kill switch. This was with the eugene and salem clubs.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lets just say well over 2k thats not all parts but paying a few bucks here and there for people to help me out etc... And my engine is still in my damn garage on a 5 gallon bucket. My rebuild is starting to get very depressing.

ddub

Hmph...

This whole ordeal is taking longer than expected, but mostly because I keep adding things to it which take longer.

Anyways, my Megasquirt n' Spark unit came in on Friday and I began working with that and soldering the wire to the connection for the MS so I can build my new harness. I didn't want to use the same colors for everything because that would make troubleshooting quite hard, obviously. After 3 hours of driving around and searching locally, I ended up with 11 different colors of wire for this job. This was plenty in my mind, because only a couple/few colors are going to be repeated which isn't bad at all.

MSnS




I mounted it to the stock ECU bracket so I could keep it in the same location with ease.


All the wire... I ended up with something like 500-550 feet of various wire... I think I'm set on wire junk for QUITE some time now




This is where I ended soldering last night, everything except 1 wire and the grounds were done.


Finished


And in the casing for the connector.


I gave about 5 feet of wire per strand. I figured that'd be enough to get me into the engine bay and some of them to where they need to go. More wire can easily be added to things that need it, since I have so much!

I still need to do the 2nd connector for the modified spark piece, which I'll probably finishing up tonight.

Things are finally coming together, maybe I'll actually get to start my car next week... But who knows.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

nice drew
now put the damn thign in and start it

felixwankel88

drew your one CRAAZY **** u rule

0x0000FF

awesome work! really great documentation!

ddub

Heh, thanks. I started this thread and project just to be my documentation of the new engine... but it kind of turned into the documentation of everything going on for my FC between the old engine getting pulled and the car starting again (2-3 months later).

jediknight7

would you recomend the zep cleaner for endplates and/or manifolds? i know the stuff is probaly bad for the rotor housings

ddub

Not sure how it'd react with the endplates and such, I didn't use it on them. It's fairly strong so it might remove the nitride coating on them, but I have no clue.

88IntegraLS

Look who's megasquirting!

Get used to running way over your planned completion timeframe. It's the curse of ambition.

ddub

Oh I've gotten more than used to it, I no longer care as long as I make progress. However, every single day I get the group of people that msg me on AIM saying "Is your car done yet?" "Any progress?" "What's left?" and so on and so forth.

Oh well, I just keep telling them to not worry, it'll be done eventually.

For the MS harness I have the main relay, fp relay, Innovate LM1 "permanent install" with relay, and the CAS/coil wiring left. Everything else has been wired up and test fitted for length.