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My Custom blockoff plates for removal of 6pi system. *pics*

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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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My Custom blockoff plates for removal of 6pi system. *pics*

Please any comments/questions.
Below it is the old gasket from the exten manifold to the Lim. I made another gasket (traced and cut out) of some gasket material, that looked to be the same material as the old gasket. I later found out that mazdatrix sells the oem gasket for like 3 bucks, so i just bought that instead. If anybody wants to use the gasket I made (donno why you would) ill mail it to you for free. It fits the manifold perfectly.
Anyways, that spot in the middle is where the ACV stuff goes. Should i just block that off? or put it back on. What does the ACV do anyway? I couldnt find any real information on it in the FSM like I could the VDI system and 6pi systems..
thx!
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 10:56 PM
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BTW i made the blockoff plates out of 1/8" aluminum i had lying around. And Im going to put some high temp gasket sealer on them before i bolt them down, That should prevent anykind of vac leaks, etc.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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you should grind them down at least a little make them look like they belong there it looks like someone threw the aluminum at the intake and it got stuck there....
TwEaK
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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Bust out the grinder and make those things a little more contoured. They look pretty ghetto right now.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:04 PM
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Yo, I did grind them down a little bit, i guess ill do it some more though, I didnt really think it matterd cuz you cant even see them
Anyways, about the ACV.. is there any reason i should block that off?
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:13 PM
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Unless you're keeping your emissions/etc, then there is no reason to keep it.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:39 PM
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so I should just block off that bigass thing? Would it be practical to make a custom plate for that? if so id probably need to use thicker metal
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:44 PM
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1/8th should be just fine. Yes, block it off. Remove the studs and use 10mm bolts to hold it in place, it looks better.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:53 PM
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You can tap out those brass inserts from the block side of the LIM.

I suggest doing that.

A better way, IMHO, would have been to tap the remaning hole and just drive a bolt into it, and if you are into porting, smoothing the end of it into the passageway.

If you decide to keep those two holes, they wouldnt be a bad spot for water injectors
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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Originally posted by Tofuball

A better way, IMHO, would have been to tap the remaning hole and just drive a bolt into it, and if you are into porting, smoothing the end of it into the passageway.

If you decide to keep those two holes, they wouldnt be a bad spot for water injectors
What holes are you talking about? I hope you dont mean where the sleaves were, why would you inject water? wtf -_-... Also why would i want to put a bolt into where the sleeves/actuator rods were. That defeats the purpose or removing them (restriction..)
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:59 PM
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Because you can shorten the bolt down to hardly even stick out. And water injection is a trick used to cool the charge as it kind of flash vaporizes (not to mention cleans pretty well) It's generally used on turbo cars.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 12:38 AM
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oh, i thoguht putting water into your engine was = no thanks
im kinda new, sorry ;(
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 12:43 AM
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Generally, it is :O

But if it is atomized and applied in a properly metered amount, then it is quite benificial, doing things such as increasing your active mix octaine rating (allowing you to run higher compression, boost, timing, or much, much leaner air/fuel mixtures, safely) (Bastardized explination, I know)

Anyway, the screw will rid you of a hole that goes nowhere in your intake. Smooth out the end of it while your porting your manifold
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 01:37 AM
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When I took out my 6pi system, the only holes that went into the manifold were where the sleeves/rods went in. So, what I did was tapped it and put bolts in Worked real nice and easy.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 01:57 AM
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
so I should just block off that bigass thing? Would it be practical to make a custom plate for that? if so id probably need to use thicker metal
You can buy the ACV block off plate from mazdatrix as well for 6.50 or something cheap like that. And it will actually look good on the engine.! Form fit those buggers!
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 02:09 AM
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I used expoxy putty to smooth out the runner and to fill up the hole. It's been in for 2 months now and its holding up great.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 08:35 AM
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Ronac: Yeh, thats the way to do it
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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Originally posted by Ronac
I used expoxy putty to smooth out the runner and to fill up the hole. It's been in for 2 months now and its holding up great.

I did this aswell, but after awhile the epoxy blew out, and I had a major vacuum leak, and I'm lucky it didn't go into the engine.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 10:15 AM
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What size of tap/bolt did you guys use to tape the hole? I think ill do this instead.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 08:39 PM
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
What size of tap/bolt did you guys use to tape the hole? I think ill do this instead.
ill just block it off with my plates.
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Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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just j/b weld some dimes i nthe holes
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