2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

My Convertible Amp-Mounting-Under-The-Rear-Deck

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 01:17 AM
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From: GTA, Ontario
My Convertible Amp-Mounting-Under-The-Rear-Deck

I thought I'd share this here in case anyone else is planning to get some music goin' in their vert! When I originally started looking into adding a subwoofer and amp a few years ago there wasn't a WHOLE lot of great examples. I didn't have the know-how or ambition to do something as nice as RX-Heaven (I think his name is) so I just kinda ghetto-fabbed a lazy solution that worked fine for the last couple years. The amp was taped down with double-side tape which... worked... I guess.


But this winter the Drama Queen came into storage in my OWN garage for the first time and I've been tearing into her for the past couple months for various things... Decided I would fix some lazy **** and clean it up a bit so here's what I made to mount the amp up nice.

Started with a cardboard mock-up. It mounts in three places: 2 bolts at the front that you can see right in front of the tabs and one bolt/nut through a hole that's slightly to the right-of-centre on that back panel thing there.


Then traced it and cut it onto some medium thickness sheet metal we had lying around a friend's shop... pretty much the thickest I could find that I could still (barely) cut with a good pair of tin snips. You can see where that back arm goes OVER the rear panel and down to where the hole is for a bolt to go through from the back (it's a tight fit) and a nut from the front of it. Used a poly-bushing for that one as well but I trimmed it thinner.


Then painted it, drilled it, mounted it... You'll need some sort of rubber bushing to keep the bracket off the chassis since it isn't flat back there. I had some spare endlink bushings from a poly-bushing kit lying around so they worked. You will need some longer bolts for these two front holes than whatever was in there from factory. The one on the passenger side of the car does bolt into something from below so double-check your lengths and make sure you're going through to the rusty bracket underneath.
(The left-most bolt in this pic)



Put some stick-on foam pads I had lying around on there just to make sure it wouldn't rattle or anything...


And boom boom done!


Not the prettiest piece of metal in the world but it's damn solid. This is a medium sized 500W mono amp but pretty big by today's standards since it is about a 5 or 6 years old model now. You could go bigger using the same mounting points going by how solid this one is.

Only con I can think of is that you don't get to use your spare anymore but boo-hoo - live on the edge you sissy!

Got a lot more stuff going on in my build too - I'll be doing a fancier sub box eventually when I get the time for it.
https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-for...thread-959424/

Last edited by CS13B; Feb 17, 2013 at 01:21 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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Looks good

I tried putting a 10" JL sub in the same spot but didn't like all the rattle. I've since gone down to an 8" Boston Pro sub. Amp for that sub is in the trunk and I've got a Zapco amp for the components in the driver side well. I used the well for the amp and created a fiberglass molded sub enclosure so that I could keep the spare tire.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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From: GTA, Ontario
I have a shallow 10" in that box you see at the top... stuffed a bunch of blankets around the box and there was no rattle even playing as loud as the door speakers will handle.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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From: ORLANDO FLORIDA
Originally Posted by JustJeff
Looks good

I tried putting a 10" JL sub in the same spot but didn't like all the rattle. I've since gone down to an 8" Boston Pro sub. Amp for that sub is in the trunk and I've got a Zapco amp for the components in the driver side well. I used the well for the amp and created a fiberglass molded sub enclosure so that I could keep the spare tire.
Insulation would have fixed the rattle.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JJ42072
Insulation would have fixed the rattle.
I had/have dynamat in all the appropriate areas. Dynamat under the enclosure on the support/crossbeams, on the underside of the deck cover. Dynamat on the trunk lid, behind all the trunk panels and behind the license plate. The only other thing I could have done is polyfill behind the moldings that cover the vert motors.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by JustJeff
Looks good

I tried putting a 10" JL sub in the same spot but didn't like all the rattle. I've since gone down to an 8" Boston Pro sub. Amp for that sub is in the trunk and I've got a Zapco amp for the components in the driver side well. I used the well for the amp and created a fiberglass molded sub enclosure so that I could keep the spare tire.
That is probably the best vert sub I've seen.
How does it sound? I want to do that with a 8" w7 but am unsure if I'll be able to get it enough airspace.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:48 PM
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From: oxnard
I like this option, keeps the trunk clear
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Old Oct 1, 2017 | 06:28 PM
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From: Germany
May you can repost the pictures?
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 06:10 AM
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roTAR needz fundZ
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From: Freeland, MI
Originally Posted by StephanGJ
May you can repost the pictures?
Its from 4 years ago, i doubt it will happen
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Old Oct 3, 2017 | 09:43 AM
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From: Germany
Maybe i am lucky
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