I have changed the thermostat, flushed the radiator,

this started when i blew a heater hose, since i replaced it, it has been overheating within 15min!

Any ideas?
also after i replaced the hose, the oil guage, and speedo have stoped working?!


HELP ME PLEASE!

only other thing i can figure is the water pump, but i hope its not.

 

Did you do anything else at the same time as replacing the heater hose?

 

Did you put in an OEM Mazda thermostat. They seem to be the only ones that work correctly. Check the radiator for cold spots, indicating a clogged radiator. Also, are you losing any coolant?

 

Get a coolant pressure tester and see if it holds pressure. If it doesn't, find the leak. Don't waste your time doing anything else.

 

did you install the thermostat the correct way?

And if your water pump it bad, you will see water leaking down the front cover. There is a tiny hole in the housing that water will fall through if it makes it pastthe bearing.

 

did you bleed it properly? any air in the system will give you problems

 

It could be the wiring that goes to the thermo switch. If the switch doesnt open and let coolant circulate then you could have a problem.

 

for emphasis

 

.

 

That is incorrect. That's not what the switch is for. I believe it's a temperature switch to activate the auxillary fan that some cars were equipped with, although I may be wrong about that.

The thermostat is mechanical, and it should open up by itself, when immersed in hot water. There's nothing electrical about it to fail.

 

Radiator cap? If thats bad, it won't cool, had that problem, got to keep it under pressure to cool.

 

What's the proper way to bleed air from the system?

 

ok. i don't know if it is leaking, i did not anything to else to the car when i changed the hose (except accidently unplugged the speedometer cable)
and yes half the radiator is cold while the other is hot ( this is the hose side hot, and the right side cold)

When i flushed the radiator everything was flowing great!?
how could i tell if it is clogged?

 

Listen to SonicRat

 

I am going to emph this some more! Air trapped in RAD! Run it with the upper cap off rev it for a wile watch the gauge get it to circulate. I have had them run perfect all day and start up next day and overheating due to air trapped in system. If you have air in it the coolant wont flow properly through the rad as well will cause the pump to cavitate.

If the pump is bad the water will leak from the weep hole.

If there are no leaks and the system won’t hold pressure then don’t wori about it like SonicRat said the coolant seals are gone.

BLEAD THE SYSTEM WELL!! And then do it again.

I forgot how the WTS afects the ECU something with timing and fuel amount I balive but the other sensor you are refering to is on S5's and I have seen the sensor on some verious JDM S4's that turns on the AUX fan at 207F. But yes that is right, none of the sensors have didaly to do with the cooling systems flow itself.

 

I forgot how the WTS afects the ECU something with timing and fuel amount I balive but the other sensor you are refering to is on S5's and I have seen the sensor on some verious JDM S4's that turns on the AUX fan at 207F. But yes that is right, none of the sensors have didaly to do with the cooling systems flow itself.

 

Exactly like my symptoms when I had a clogged radiator.