You blocking and guide coating it or just gonna prime it again and paint it?

 

ok heres the pics as promised of the motor. some are blurry but we couldnt get any better pics with the cam we had.



believe it or not these housing are USED from japan2la (thanks again!!) and were PERFECT!

 

all new seals, springs and such used. atkins apex seals were used...





and last a pic of the iron port


today i finished up primering the car. i started sanding all the high spots down to get the primer to lay even so i dont get much orange peel effect. i think its turning out good. i didnt feel i needed pics of the primer shot again. i might primer the doors and hood so that i can really clean the gun and not have to switch back and forth between the paint and primer. cleaning the gun is a PITA!

 

my best adivce when you spray the color coat....

spray more than what youre planning on. that way before you put clear you can wet sand the color coat to have much less orange peel, and that way when the clear goes on, there's less time wetsanding the clear cause you can use a finer grit sandpaper. the color coat is where the majority of the orange peel comes from, but still also comes from the primer too.

 

 

Motor MMMMMMMMMMM.

 

 

sorry, but i was trained by an older gentleman who paints restored muscle cars for a living.

 

Get your money back. Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint.

If you are having to sand off that much paint, you didn't do your job in the stages preceding it. I suggest taking more time with a finer grit. There are no acceptable substitutes for wet-sanding IMHO.

 

you'll still have orange peel.... take a fluorescent light to even the best laid paint before wetsanding anything.

off topic, sorry OP

 

ok ok ok.

Before this thread gets jacked - I'll set your comments straight.

1: Orange peel in the final finish is not caused by a rough base-coat. An extremely dry basecoat (i.e. applied improperly) will cause the need to apply more clear to smooth it out - but "rough" base is hard to achieve because:

1a) Base coat is extremly thin. In fact, 3 medium wet coats of base is equal to half of a SINGLE coat of clear (2k urethane) in mil thickness. Because of this, creating orange peel or texture is next to impossible. If you don't believe me - try filling in 240 grit scratches with base sometime, then try it with a coat of primer (2k urethane).

2) There should be no orange peel left in the primer before you apply the base since it should be sanded. At least, I'd hope its sanded Otherwise, sure, appling paint over unsanded primer that still has texture will leave texture in the top coat - but I'd be more worried about it peeling off then I would be with anythign else.

3) Whatever orange peel remains in the top coat (there's always some, I've to see a show quality finish ever created without wetsanded and polishing....its just impossible) will not be lessened by sanding the base since - as I already went over - base will not create it. The thick materials create it when they lay down. Thick materials being primer, and clear coat.

4) Sanding the base coat in a metallic colour will cause the need to re-coat and re-orient the cololur since you'll disrupt the metallic. In a solid colour, it can cause cut-through's if you aren't careful and can also lead to a possible re-coat before clearing.........

5) the only reason to wetsand a base coat AT ALL would be to remove some airborne particles from the surface since if you don't they'll be trapped under the clear. Other then that, don't touch it.

And resume thread.......

 

i was hoping you would chime in classic!
whats shoudl i be sanding the primer with before applying the base (color)? the sheet i got with the primer said 600 or equal to. can i go as far as 400 without scratches showing or should i use 600? i dont need a "perfecect" paint job but id still like it nice!

 

P400 grit will be fine.

If you're worried about it though, and since you're going red (I thought I read that you were?) you may want to consider using a sealer before the base.

It's bascially a mix of primer and urethane colour that is *near* your paint colour (much closer then the primer) and because its thicker than base, will fill any over scratches (missed spotswhile final sanding) and hide any little cut-through areas in a single coat or very close to a single coat. Ask your jobber or your friend what ratio and products to use since it differs from one paint company to the next.

It lets you use less base to acheive full coverage, as well as provides a good smooth ground layer in the event of coarse scratches being present in the primer.

I use it alot with low hiding colours such as red, or jobs that have multiple different colours of primer.

 

actually im going black.

 

The darker the color, the more a primer sealer will benefit you. Get the darkest primer sealer you can get. PPG makes a black sealer. Can't remember the code off the top of my head...

 

okay, sorry its been so long again...i get lazy and dont want to sand!
anyways today i sanded the rest of the car down and got al the primer flat. i used a paint stick and just wrapped the sandpaper in it to keep it flat as possible. tommorow.........COLOR!!

keep an eye out tommorow nite for pics and updates


i also started sanding down the hood and doors. i know i should primer them first but all my interior is on the front porch and my GF wants me to paint the porch and get all the interior off it!!!!

 

I'll be watching for them.

 

allright. so i layed a semi thin layer of black on the car and found scrathes all thorugh it. now im not sure what the hell im going to do. this is why i dont paint for a living! so frustrating!!! any advice now that im already this far!?!?!? its only a thin coat. am i going to have to go back to primer?? could i sand them out?? any recommendations as to what grit to get them out? wet sand or dry? they arent horrible scrathes but they are noticable when you use the glare of the lights and look down the side of the car. i got SO pissed i walked away. but i did snap a pic!!!

 

Ya didn't break your camera again did ya? If they are not real deep scratches I'd probably try wet sanding with some fine grit paper. You don't want anymore scratches then ya have now.

Geno

 

nope, hahahah...im SO pissed!! the only way you can see them if you look down the side using the lite from the garage.....should i wet sand with 600 grit?

 

I'd go finer than that. I'd try 1000 grit at first. If that doesn't take it off go to 800 grit. and so on. Get yourself a bottle with a squirt top on it and keep it wet all the time. You'll want a pail of water and a small sponge also. I don't know if NAPA has them or not but there are sponges made just for wet sanding. They were plastic coated to keep them from ripping But a thin kitchen sponge would work too. You just don't want ripples in your finish from your fingers. Don't get to pissed. It's fixable. Just takes some time.

Geno

 

lol, time...yeah thats for sure!! thanks for the help man!! good thing im back on first. i can actually get somehting done.

 

I hear ya man. I'm on 2nd and can't get anything done. Hope to get something done tomarrow as long as it doesn't rain. we'll see.

Geno

 

well, me and a friend decided to do it the hard way. we sanded back down to primer with 400 grit wet then 600 wet....if there is scratches left in this....lets just say i wont be happy!!

heres what it looks like agian........




now i have to finish wet sanding with 600 on the other side and then wash it VERY well and let sit and dry for a day or to.....ill tell ya...its ALOT smoother this time!!

 

Wet it down and look at where the scratches were.You should be able to see them as long as there is a shine on it from the water. Painting sux but it pays off in the end.

Geno