FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

here is my IC setup, not to hijack of course. I'd suggest ditching the silicon bends if at all possible.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

looks good man!!
first thought was NOT to have the coupler elbows but the piping just wouldnt fit. if i run into problems (blowing off) ill just get 90 degree elbows and weld them right on.


little bit of everything rolled into one i hope!!

yesterday i pulled more of the dent out. i got about 90% of it pulled. did this to keep the bondo down to a minimum. it came out even better than i thought!

i also cleaned the underneath of the hood and sanded it for paint. gonna paint it tommorow and see if i still can!!!

ill break out the "OLL" cam for pictures tommorow since my good one is getting sent out for repairs.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

You think I am putting a lot of time into my car? You are going to full distance! I think yours will be much nicer than mine when completed! Keep it up and you will get there.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

hahah thanks man!!
things is when i bought this, i needed alot of work.(body and all) the only further i drove this car was accross the street. straight from a Uhaul dolly to my garage. the rest of its journey (when i owned it) was begin towed.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

What did you use to pull on the welded nails? I have a welder, so I might use this to fix the quarter on my sport.

Nice project btw, I can never find the time to document my build lol.

gmag69

All ya need is a pair of vice grips. Grab the end of the nail and pull.You should actually use a body hammer to tap arond the dent to level it out as you pull. You can get youself a cheap setof body hammers and dollies at Harbor Freight.(that's were I got mine.) Any local autobody supply place could probably hook ya up also.

Geno

RETed

People...this is a good example of what you should not do, unless your engine is hard-mounted with no deflection.

I can't tell which of the IC couplings are bump hoses, but you need at least one on each side.
Also, the rad pipe / hoses are bad, bad, bad - they are not able to handle the engine deflecting when it's revving.
There's a reason why the radiator hoses are looooong rubber hoses - they can handle the engine rocking back and forth.
Normally, the engine will rock side to side as you load it up.
This causes stress and strain on anything that's connected to it - the engine - and the chassis.
FMIC's and radiators are the usual culprits.
Eventually, the hoses or the clamps will tear or fail.


-Ted

Pnoidrummer

how do you guys clean your engine bay? just a wet rag or something?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Use Allmetal instead of bondo, much better.

micah

What makes AllMetal better? I'm curious.. I've also used a product called Fibrall , good stuff as well. But bondo is a decent material.

FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

the engine is hard mounted, the rest of the driveline is delrin mounted, it works and feels amazing. thankyou

FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

i clean mine whenever it gets really dirty after events or a bunch of street miles. when i last had the motor out, i cleaned it all with purple power cleaner and a brush and then pressure washed. For clean up now its a little purple power and some water, then i use the multi purpose pledge so that it repels the dust a little better, i learned that one from cleaning my motorcycle. Its not really a show engine or something, but i generally just like to keep it clean for my own edification

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I've found it easier to work with, never cracks, tends to 'hold' better than bondo, and it doesn't like to suck up water like a sponge. Granted, I don't think they quite intended bondo to be fixing the likes of that panel due to how much of it's going to be piled up in places, but allmetal seems to do better when you absolutely require laying it on thick.

gmag69

Actally you're only supposed to use 1/4 of an inch of filler on a repair. If you're using more then that the repair is not done right. I never use Bondo as a base I always use tigerhair myself. It doesn't soak up water like Bondo does like you mentioned and It gives a good base to apply your skim coat of bondo on top of. Bondo is really for skim coating to remove little imperfections in a panel not for major repairs.
Tom's Quarter is pretty close actually. It looked pretty good.

Tom: When you get ready to putty that quarter use the tigerhair first then skin with bondo. You should not have any issues with it after that.

Geno

breckboarder55

very nice! Seems like we have similar set-ups. (Roughly same turbo, IC set up is similar, modded hood latch, same manifold, E6K, exc.) I have pretty similar goals on using it as my dd, as well as power. But im done = )

If you havent allready, you should order the oil/coolant flanges (from the block to the line) for the turbo. (turbonetics is what I used) It took nearly two months for me to get those flanges in last year! Also, if you decide to use those flanges the one used to the coolant in might have to be modified to bolt to the engine.

FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

you can get them from ATP turbo pretty easily these days.

micah

I totally agree with that... I used bondo on teeny stuff... places I didn't want to use glazing putty to fill.. Like where the spoiler bolts on in those 2 spots in the rear.. where everybody leans on it and bends it down.. Like, less that 1/8" deep. door dings too..

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

gotcha!
the dent looks twice as good as when you left but i still feel that the tigerhair will be best for it.


what gmag69 said. after he left i didnt have anyone to really hammer on the QP while i pulled so i just pulled on it the best i could and it came out fantastic (sat in a chair and put both my feet on the tires and pulled!! ) youll be surprised how well the dent pulls out!!! just know youll have to paint it afterwards. i went right to the metal to weld the nails on. just good tacs will work or you will penetrate to far and when you pull the nail it will take some of the QP with it!!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I would never use bondo for anything more than the most simple of tasks. If used for intended purposes, bondo seems to do OK (still not a fan since i've always had cracking issues), but on those things where ya just can't get it closer all-metal has really proven up to the task (even though it's not what it's meant for, but hell, if I'm keeping the car I wouldn't mind, I'd never wanna filler something up to sell it though). But anywho, good advice all around

gmag69

I checked out that all-metal you were talking about. It looks like a pretty sweet filler. I'm going to have to give it a shot if I can find it around here.
It looks like the stuff this guy put on my '69 GTO back in the 80's when my dad owned it. He was having problems with the decklid bubbling on the rear pass side corner.This guy ground all the bondo out of it and laid this metal filler in there. I didn't even know it was there till I stripped the lid to redo it. Never bubbled again after he put it on there.What does this stuff look like cured? That stuff was like a dark gray. Looked just like metal. It was pretty sweet.

Geno

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

great build!!!!! i think thats the I/C im going to get, i dont like cutting my bumpers or long piping

subscribed!!! cant wait to see the result

RETed

Are you running a sacrificial anode in your cooling system?
This is one of the problems of running an "isolated" pipe in place of your radiator hose.
Since the pipe is not electrically connected to the rest of the chassis, it tends to eat itself quicker than the rest of the car - it's called galvanic corrosion, and the pipe eats itself from the inside out.


-Ted

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

dont know how i missed this!!
so how do you like it?? pretty good on the street??
im hoping to build boost pretty fast with a streetported S4 motorand 3 inch exhaust.

thanks man. i was in the same situation and didnt want to take out the support behind the bumper or run long IC pipes so i decided to run them this way. i might cut the bumper a little so that it gets a little more air flow but im not sure yet.

thanks for all the compliments people!! greatley app.

and yesterday i painted the under part of the hood to see if i could still paint. it turned out fine. today im going to take off the doors and paint the insides of them . Pics tonite~!!

micah

So, how is your hood latch modified? Lighter spring for an alum hood?

Also, I just painted the underside of my hood(s). Don't use PPG Omni. Man, that stuff sucks *****. Go Napa Martin Senior for cheap paint!

Unless of course you just rattle can'd it.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

the hood latch is stock. i kept all that the same.parts i just cant use a prop rod. i found on another forum where they used hood stuts. im going to go that route.

and i got ALL NAPA paint. the future father in-law owns ours in town so i got hooked up with a great price.