arghx

iTrader: (3)

Well guys after having the car down for about six months, it finally started. My stock turbo blew on me and I knew it was time to do the deed. This is an 1988 Turbo II. Here are some [low quality] pics:











Here is the engine mod list:

-- Aggressively street ported s4 motor, built by Bruce Turrentine. has an FD oil pressure regulator.

-- T04S turbo. .96 A/R P trim hotside, 60 trim .70 A/R compressor. This turbo is very common on an FD. It's a little like a BNR stage 4 but obviously has a way bigger hotside and a slightly larger compressor housing.

-- Undivided turbine housing on HKS cast undivided manifold, with a real HKS 40mm wastegate (10psi spring) and stainless steel wastegate line currently with no boost controller for tuning

-- 720/1680 injectors, KG secondary rail, -6AN stainless steel fuel lines, Supra TT pump, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (you can barely see it in the pics, but I mounted it to the stock charcoal canister bracket)

-- Apex'i Power FC and Commander with Banzai Racing adapter kit. The car started right up with this and I only needed to run two wires besides the trailing coil wiring.

-- Innovate LC1 wideband, Innovate XD-16 AFR gauge, and a Datalogit (which allows you to to hook a laptop in for tuning) all wired up. I can post the wiring diagram I made again; it's somewhat complicated to get it all hooked in.

-- Exhaust is a modified Corksport downpipe with a V band flange and a Racing Beat 3" catback. I still need a custom midpipe made.

-- Fluidyne aluminum radiator and stock cooling fan. I had to cut a chunk of the fan shroud out (you can't really tell in the pic) and bash the **** out of the AEM cone filter to make it all fit.

--Greddy front mount kit, originally designed for the stock turbo, which I cut up to fit the T04S. I will be taking it to a shop to weld a few sections that currently have couplers, like the one right near the turbo. Right now all these couplers would leak horribly under boost or blow off.

The car still needs:

-- some kind of ignition amplifier. I will run either an MSD 6A or a Jacobs box probably. I'm wondering if I really need to amplify the trailing side. I will also upgrade from four BUR9EQ to some kind of race plug.

-- electronic boost controller of some sort. I'm still not sure what I will get... my main concern is something that will be able to automatically make adjustments in cold weather. I had an MBC that spiked horribly on my stock turbo with ported wastegate.

-- Nitrous intercooler sprayer, eventually. That will be pretty sweet on a track or a dyno.

And God help me, I will be tuning this thing myself unless I absolutely cannot get it to drive properly. It will be running 20psi with 110 octane. I have a 55 gallon drum and a pump in my yard. I've read a shitload about how to tune the Power FC and I think I am up for the challenge.

BlueTII

You may want to flip the PFC upside down, this is how we recommend installing it, it gives you a little more clearance, besides that car looks great, glad she fired right up for you. You may also want to get a PS2 cable and follow our how to for installation, this saves you from having to pull the carpet and floor panel up everytime you want to hook up the datalogit.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Good Luck Ray, Im about at the same place and lookin 400 rwhp but with REW Its in and running but lots of details to clean up

Look forward to seeing it.
Oh Im probably going to let a professional tune my car. Let me know if you want to go that route
Johny

arghx

iTrader: (3)

What did you make that bracket out of? I'm reluctant to drill any holes or do anything to the case of the Power FC, and honestly I haven't gotten my interior back together yet. I still need to purchase the PS/2 extension cable and then I am going to mount my datalogit in such a way that I can remove it if I need to use it on another car or something.

I was honestly thinking about mounting it kind of horizontally under that little metal bar where the stock ECU used to go. I've got a friend who may help me with some custom stuff. I haven't even driven the car yet. I will probably get it towed to the exhaust shop to make the midpipe so I don't get a ticket for being so loud.

EDIT: also note that I have an 87 engine harness installed that I bought off the forums, so I am using an 87 resistor pack. My stock one was too chewed up.

BlueTII

We just use the stock ECU bottom bracket only. You do not have to drill any holes in the PFC, gravity is on your side. Also Apexi supplies their JDM velcro if you feel like using it

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I thought about using a stock ECU bracket but I wanted to sell the thing and I figured it would be harder if the bracket were removed.

BlueTII

Whoever buys it should have the bracket one their old ECU (N/A is the same), if not you are still giving them the top one. It is just held on with a couple screws.

It really is not that big of a deal I was just giving you an idea to secure it a bit and not have ot flopping around.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

In case anyone was wondering, this is at least $5-6000 worth of stuff. But every single part was new except the front mount and exhaust. If you are willing to do custom exhaust and intercooler it would be cheaper, plus you could find almost all this stuff used.

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

pm'd you

boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

looks real good, keep us up to date on how it runs.

WE3RX7

iTrader: (8)

Looks good.

My only thing with that setup right now is the choice on the BOV - the Type-S, at least in my experience, is NOT happy at anything above 14psi.

We used it on an '87 T2 running 16psi, and literally, the the "top hat" section start chucking the bolts, we lost two on just one run, it separate and starting leaking.

Just my two cents.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Now the fun begins.

I got a midpipe fabricated today and took her out on the maiden voyage. And well, it's currently in some random parking lot right now because it left me stranded about 2 miles from home. It started heating up so I pulled over when it got to 210 with no sign of stopping. I never bled the air out of the cooling system so that's probably what did it. Traffic is so bad right now that I'm going to go back in a few hours and limp it home.

I also think I have a bad thermosensor. It was reading 45 degrees Celcius on the FC commander, which is about 110 Fahrenheit, when my autometer gauge was reading 210 and my stock temperature gauge was reading halfway up, which is a bit warm for an s4. The car is running REDICULOUSLY rich (like my LC-1 is pegged at 7.3:1 AFR), and the inaccurate, low temperature readings have got to be one of the reasons why it is dumping so much gas in. According to the PFC map it is putting at least an extra 30% fuel in at that temperature reading. Oh and I also checked my TPS the other day and it was reading 8 ohms at wide open throttle even after I set it to 1 ohm at idle, which is out of spec. There didn't appear to be any breaks in the resistance when I checked.

Another concern is that there appears to be some smoke coming from the turbo (can see it from under the hood), and I know I have a restrictor in the oil feed line. It was definately a new turbo... I bought it off someone here on the forums who told me it was new, but the polished compressor housing was perfect looking when I got it and had no signs of wear. I also built oil pressure in the turbo by turning over the engine for five seconds 3 times before I started the car up for the first time. Maybe the downpipe's v band flange was warped and it's just an exhaust leak?

Either way, it looks like I likely need a new TPS and a new thermosensor at least. Then I have to start playing around with the fuel maps. The funny thing is, the car starts up every single time. It's never flooded, yet it runs rich as hell. If it stalls, it starts right back up, but it will not idle in any way (I have no BAC and idle control is disabled on the Power FC).

any input would be welcome. Oh and as for the blowoff valve... I'll worry about that when my car is capable of boosting, but thanks for the heads up.

EDIT: the is not a new motor. It is fully broken in and was running strong on the stock turbo for a while.

Jelloman457

iTrader: (1)

Looks real good wiring looks fun