my email is ikoor@aol.com , only reason im posting it is case i know everyone heres nice :) and wont use it ina a bad way, plz if you have any intetion of getting ride of thoes rims tell me i always wanted some bbs wheels on mine!

I don't know, $275obo for all 4 with tires, all of the center caps, and the tool to take the cetercaps off sounds fair. This isn't the for sale forum so I do appologize for this, just trying to answer a question many people are asking.

Hey usfdr i cant wait for your build i want to do a 20b conv too. Are you going to add stiffer springs for the front suspension? Good luck with your build Im getting ready to purchase my motor from nippon as well. Were did you get the street port done and the rebuild?

Yeah, I'm going to do a complete suspension upgrade. I had a guy here in tampa rebuild the engine for me the place is called Maztech. I can't wait to get it back so I can get on with the conversion.

Thanks,
Usfdr

usfdr
keep up the good work your on the right path to having one bad ass unique rx. and as for the sway bar issue just get two small pieces of 3/4in thick alu. and drill two holes in them matching the footprint of the stock swaybar mounts. unbolt your swaybar put the spacers in. longer bolts may be needed.

Usfdr one question, "wht all did you get when you purchased your motor"? did you almost get the whole front clip or did you get the motor only and had to get the turbos and ecu seperate? just curious

Hey wankel, I was thinking about that very same thing. When I get the engine in I'll see if it will work. Thanks

jamesdeanrx7, what I got with the enigne is complete engine, twins, ECU, complete engine wiring harness with all of the sensors (except AFM still looking for one), and the main wiring harness that still had most everything pluged in ie, coils, igniter boxes like the 3rd gens have, fuse box, automatic tranny ECU, and a bunch of other boxes and sensors that plug into it. Thats what I got.

Part of the engine was put together today. It should be finished tomorrow. I've been taking pictures of the build so I'll post them when we're done. I should be test fitting it later this week.

:eek:

I'd like to go on record to state that when I was at K2RD, we didn't bother with the stock JC3S ECU, because we felt we would have a lot more success with the Haltech like of EMS units.&nbsp Securing a stock ECU and good condition engine harness is next to impossible - we were not willing to spend over $3,000 on the motor.&nbsp We did take a peek at the electrical schematics for the stock ECU and engine wiring, and the stock ECU is integrated a lot with the stock automatic transmission.&nbsp We were not willing to mess with a "slush box", as we were planning to use an OS Giken twin-disc "street" clutch with the stock FC turbo 5-speed manual transmission.&nbsp If you don't get the wiring right, the stock ECU barfs.

now has managed to get the 20B up and running mated with the stock JC3S auto trans and the stock ECU.&nbsp This is quite an accomplishment, as we wouldn't have messed with such a big mess.&nbsp now's writes and notes are posted in the 20B section.&nbsp I believe this is one of the few 20B/auto trans conversion done into an FC3S in the world.



-Ted

usfdr do you know whre to get a manual for the 3 rotor so i can know where all that electrical stuff is cuz ive never seen a 3 rotor up close before
jd

oh ya are you using the factory injectors or modified cuz im just like you I want to do it as cheap as possiable and still have mad ponies,ps,ac,heat. I with you on that and still being able to stomp exotic cars. I live in las vegas so there is plenty of porches ferraris and a couple lambos so i want to rub there face in the ass fault lol...

hey thats a good buy , but its a little cheap the only reason im telling you this is cause im not spenting that much on rims , i have the junkyard bible , and it says their orginal mazda bbs rims and are worth $886 apice not lieing im just reading from a book!

I have the complete manual for the 3 rotor but its in Japanese. Its only good for pictures and even then every thing is drawn in there are no actual pictures.

Damn well when i get a manual there are lots of japs in vegas that can translat it for me lol... good luck usfdr i would really like to see you build dairy and talk to you when i do mine IM selling my conv to a friend for 4000 so i can buy a cheap t2 with blown engine i hope or none at all then start with the project keep in touch

Here are some pics of the Engine before assembly.

Another

And Another

Last one. I'll post some more later.

usfdr> I am the guy who put the 20b in a 1988 AE with
the stock computer, and it's not easy to figure out!
Would I do it again?,,, NO.
Would I recommend it? only if you don't want to spend the
extra money for a stand alone.
As for was it worth the trouble of figuring out,
I would have to say yes, the car goes like stink, even with the
auto trani. The auto has the ability to be shifted manually and
now that I have that feature working it goes even better.
I do plan on putting in a manual someday, I know I
can make the stock computer work with out the trani,
because I have already tried it with the auto disconnected.
If you get to the point of doing this project I will help in
any way, with the exception of doing it for you:) lol


matt

usfdr> just curious,, what number is stanped on your housings?

Matt

why did you all even take that thing apart? :) it looks perfect, even the water seals

now Hey I really appreciate any and all help that you can give me. I should be there pretty soon. I'm waiting to get this engine back together and then I can really get to work. Its not that I don't want to get a stand alone its just that I don;t have the money to get a decent one and then get it tuned. Also, I figure I have everything I need, minus the AFM, to get it going so I thought what the hell.

Oh, the number on the housing is B661.

jacob yeah, I know the engine was perfect. Every part could have been reused. It didn't need to be taken apart at all. But it was so I decided to rebuild it. Had I left it together I would be driving the damn thing right now. :cursing: Oh well, I'll get it back and going here soon.

ive put over 3k miles on my 20b fc, including a 1000mile round trip to sevenstock, and 5+ hours on the dyno. the cost to build mine was right around 10kusd including the suspension, tires etc. i also went with the stock turbos, actually i went with stock everything i was curious to see what they would be like.

your project is at the part where you need to solve the problems, my 20b hit the hood and the sway bar, your mounts are lower so maybe you wont have to cut the hood but you will need a sway bar. what kind of radiator are you gonna run? this seems like the hard part, getting to run cool. its stuff like that thats the hard part. also i didnt see the ignitors in the pics, i'm assuming you have those? if not you need them

mike

My engine is 1/8" above the steering knuckle, and still doesn't clear the hood. Lower engine mounts are not going to help unless the steering rack is relocated, the oil pan is modified, or the engine is moved closer to the firewall.

Hey j9fd3s I really can't answer these questions until I get the engine inside the car. I will be sure to do so once it is in. Also, I do have the ignitors for both coils. Probably further down in the box so you can't see them.

Evil I hope to have some good luck well see.