More S5 wiring questions, no tach, no spark, no go.
02-14-05, 04:54 PM
#27
Finally felt well enough today to go out and do this hailers.
Everything tested out to spec, showed 151/152 ohms for N/P and T/Q. There was no sign of any wire shorting out to a ground. My only question is- right before the red/green wire reach the ECU plug, they combine to one red wire. This looks stock, but I cant assume anything with the last owner of this car.
I can pull the cas, spin it by hand, and get nothing now. If I move the wiring going to the ecu from the firewall, the fuel injectors will randomly fire while spinning the cas. Sometimes they even stick open. But no spark. I am using the "working" N374 that came with the car, it is the only one that works with this wiring atleast.
I have gone over every wire in this harness and theres something I must be missing
. Time for a new harness I guess.
Everything tested out to spec, showed 151/152 ohms for N/P and T/Q. There was no sign of any wire shorting out to a ground. My only question is- right before the red/green wire reach the ECU plug, they combine to one red wire. This looks stock, but I cant assume anything with the last owner of this car.
I can pull the cas, spin it by hand, and get nothing now. If I move the wiring going to the ecu from the firewall, the fuel injectors will randomly fire while spinning the cas. Sometimes they even stick open. But no spark. I am using the "working" N374 that came with the car, it is the only one that works with this wiring atleast.
I have gone over every wire in this harness and theres something I must be missing
. Time for a new harness I guess.
02-14-05, 05:36 PM
#28
Ok! After a bit of experimenting..... I figured this out.
If I disconnected the battery and reconnect it, then spin the cas by hand, I get spark and firing of the fuel injectors.
If I then reinstall the cas, go and crank the car over with the starter. I get no spark. Only firing of the fuel injectors. If I pull the cas out and spin it, I get no spark.
Something is shorting out somewhere. What could possibly be happening? Could this possibly have anything to do with the body harness wiring..... Theres lengths of extension for patched together to feed the tranny sensors...
If I disconnected the battery and reconnect it, then spin the cas by hand, I get spark and firing of the fuel injectors.
If I then reinstall the cas, go and crank the car over with the starter. I get no spark. Only firing of the fuel injectors. If I pull the cas out and spin it, I get no spark.
Something is shorting out somewhere. What could possibly be happening? Could this possibly have anything to do with the body harness wiring..... Theres lengths of extension for patched together to feed the tranny sensors...
02-14-05, 08:50 PM
#29
HAILERS
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;That is odd. The cas also controls the firing of the fuel injectors. Got one, should have the other. I'm at a loss. I'm on the verge of asking you to take a sparkplug lead in one hand and put the other hand on the chassis and crank the engine over.....then ask you if you got a jolt or not.
A dragging starter can pull the voltage way down and cause a meek spark at the plugs. Maybe pull the plugs out and crank the engine while watching for spark at the plugs that are now laying on the fender near the left strut tower?????? The starter will have no load at all to speak of if you do that.
A dragging starter can pull the voltage way down and cause a meek spark at the plugs. Maybe pull the plugs out and crank the engine while watching for spark at the plugs that are now laying on the fender near the left strut tower?????? The starter will have no load at all to speak of if you do that.
02-14-05, 08:58 PM
#30
I will go and pull all the plugs and rest them on the strut tower and try cranking it.
Whats also bugging me is the fact that I found a counterweight sitting in a box in the car.... I think who ever installed the aftermarket flywheel/centerforce clutch, did not use it/ Yay for more work!
Heres a question.
When I put the key in, turn it over, I can hear the fuel injectors fire, then I will stop cranking, and for 1-5 seconds after the key has now been moved to the on position, the injectors continue to fire. Is that normal?
Whats also bugging me is the fact that I found a counterweight sitting in a box in the car.... I think who ever installed the aftermarket flywheel/centerforce clutch, did not use it
/ Yay for more work!Heres a question.
When I put the key in, turn it over, I can hear the fuel injectors fire, then I will stop cranking, and for 1-5 seconds after the key has now been moved to the on position, the injectors continue to fire. Is that normal?
02-14-05, 09:07 PM
#31
HAILERS
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Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Originally Posted by The Spyder
I will go and pull all the plugs and rest them on the strut tower and try cranking it.
Whats also bugging me is the fact that I found a counterweight sitting in a box in the car.... I think who ever installed the aftermarket flywheel/centerforce clutch, did not use it/ Yay for more work!
Heres a question.
When I put the key in, turn it over, I can hear the fuel injectors fire, then I will stop cranking, and for 1-5 seconds after the key has now been moved to the on position, the injectors continue to fire. Is that normal?
Whats also bugging me is the fact that I found a counterweight sitting in a box in the car.... I think who ever installed the aftermarket flywheel/centerforce clutch, did not use it
/ Yay for more work!Heres a question.
When I put the key in, turn it over, I can hear the fuel injectors fire, then I will stop cranking, and for 1-5 seconds after the key has now been moved to the on position, the injectors continue to fire. Is that normal?
I'd bet a large amount of money that what you are hearing is the bac valve. It is NORMAL for the bac to be cycling when the key is to ON. Remove the bac's plug and I do believe the *fuel injectors* will be heard no more. It's the bac cycling at approx 120 hz.
.
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