more help new motor still wont start :(
01-11-03, 02:06 AM
#1
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more help new motor still wont start :(
ok im really getting mad now.... i put a low intake manifold gasket on with new lil orings so i wouldnt leak coolant.... i couldnt get the car to start so i pushed started it at about 15mph.... it would jump up to 2000rpms then slowly keep going down till it died even if i gave it gas it would juss putter down and die? any ideas what would be causing this?!?! thanks for the input!
josh
josh
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01-11-03, 10:29 AM
#8
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compression is mid 70's to low 80's yes im getting fuel maybe..... how much vaccum do you guys get when cranking over before it starts im getting maybe .5 - 1 inch of vac on cranking i would thought i would get more...
01-11-03, 11:32 AM
#12
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Check timing, ALL vac. lines and make sure you're getting fuel. I guarantee you're missing some critical element and with the complexity of the TII's engine bay, that's quite easy to do. Just retrace all of your steps and check everything with a fine tooth comb.
You also have to remember that there are plenty of reasons why an engine won't start, you'll have to provide a bit more information and give us some more of the cars symptoms.
You also have to remember that there are plenty of reasons why an engine won't start, you'll have to provide a bit more information and give us some more of the cars symptoms.
01-11-03, 11:55 AM
#13
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ok details....
1. i tried reusing an old lower intake manifold gasket bad idea.... sucked up coolant into my motor...
2. tore it all back down and put a new gasket it on it.....
3. didnt have a lim to uim gasket so i reused my old one with some RTV
4. dont have any emissions so i have a bunch of lines blocked off
5. had sparkplug wires hooked up wrong but no fuel so didnt hurt nothing
6. set timing by having the front pully lined up to the notch to the most right and stabed the CAS in there lined up perfectally on the top most part like this
[ <---
7. fuel lines hooked up backwards fixed that
8. only getting .5-1 inch of vaccum on cranking...
9. when i did get it to push start vaccum was weak maybe 5inches at 2k rpms
10. when it was alive at 2k rpms i tried giving it throttle ABSOLUTELY NO CHANGE IN RPMS with throttle WIDE open
11. new spark plugs
12. going to take a shot gun to it today if it doesnt start...
1. i tried reusing an old lower intake manifold gasket bad idea.... sucked up coolant into my motor...
2. tore it all back down and put a new gasket it on it.....
3. didnt have a lim to uim gasket so i reused my old one with some RTV
4. dont have any emissions so i have a bunch of lines blocked off
5. had sparkplug wires hooked up wrong but no fuel so didnt hurt nothing
6. set timing by having the front pully lined up to the notch to the most right and stabed the CAS in there lined up perfectally on the top most part like this
[ <---
7. fuel lines hooked up backwards fixed that
8. only getting .5-1 inch of vaccum on cranking...
9. when i did get it to push start vaccum was weak maybe 5inches at 2k rpms
10. when it was alive at 2k rpms i tried giving it throttle ABSOLUTELY NO CHANGE IN RPMS with throttle WIDE open
11. new spark plugs
12. going to take a shot gun to it today if it doesnt start...
01-11-03, 02:13 PM
#16
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Originally posted by importboi22
6. set timing by having the front pully lined up to the notch to the most right and stabed the CAS in there lined up perfectally on the top most part like this
[ <---
6. set timing by having the front pully lined up to the notch to the most right and stabed the CAS in there lined up perfectally on the top most part like this
[ <---
01-11-03, 02:27 PM
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See Felix WAnkel above. The cas has a dot on the lower gear and a tear drop mark on the body of the cas. Align them, then stab the cas.
The cas gear will rotate when you stab it. That will throw the previously aligned marks off. So what you do is take the black cover off the top. Align the marks on the bottom and while holding that position, look in the top of the cas. Just mentally note where any particular gear tooth is in relationship to a fixed point on the cas body. Then you stab the cas with the lower marks aligned. The gear will rotate, but now you can look in the top of the cas and align the tooth you picked out earlier with the stationary point you picked out earlier. Get it???????
The cas gear will rotate when you stab it. That will throw the previously aligned marks off. So what you do is take the black cover off the top. Align the marks on the bottom and while holding that position, look in the top of the cas. Just mentally note where any particular gear tooth is in relationship to a fixed point on the cas body. Then you stab the cas with the lower marks aligned. The gear will rotate, but now you can look in the top of the cas and align the tooth you picked out earlier with the stationary point you picked out earlier. Get it???????
01-11-03, 03:48 PM
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it started!!!!!!! IT STARTED!!!!! ran for about 30 seconds and died... but it dont matter it started!.......... i had a lil coolant and forgot about it so im tossin in some coolant and see if she will start and run happily!!! 
01-11-03, 04:24 PM
#22
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No, the coolant isn't a issue. Could have run it for several minutes and it wouldn't have killed it. Not advising that, but that's not the problem, whatever it is.
Did retiming the cas help it or was it something else????
If this is a new rebuild, it will have lower compression for several hours of initial running. Low compression results in easy flooding. Flooding means the car does not start. Make a fuel cutoff switch or have your buddy pull the fuel pump plug off, you crank the engine with your foot to the floor, when the car starts, your buddy instantly reconnects the fuel pump plug>
Did retiming the cas help it or was it something else????
If this is a new rebuild, it will have lower compression for several hours of initial running. Low compression results in easy flooding. Flooding means the car does not start. Make a fuel cutoff switch or have your buddy pull the fuel pump plug off, you crank the engine with your foot to the floor, when the car starts, your buddy instantly reconnects the fuel pump plug>
01-11-03, 05:22 PM
#23
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motor seized.....
well i got the motor started.... but it seized... the oil cooler lines were warm.... so my ONLY thought would be that front bearing everyone talks about when you remove the front pully...... first time i had the motor sittin on the flywheel second time i didnt.... would this cause the motor from spinning and *** it up? thanks for the input..
