miscellaneous gasket questions.
09-27-04, 01:45 AM
#1
seven-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: city of houston.... y0!
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
miscellaneous gasket questions.
so i have an S5 block with and S4 hybrid turbo/manifold(still out of car). i'm double checking to see if i could get a NON turbo header gasket and slap it between the block/manifold. the problem i'm having is if i could do that, then which gasket do i get?
n/a S4
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-461A-N326
or
n/a S5
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-461A-N350
or am i just gonna take it like a man and bendover with this... an engine->turbo manifold gasket.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-4610-N386
could it work? the n/a gaskets look like the same thing to me, minus the cost of your **** virginity.
but at least your not an FD guy out there looking for a second job because of these little bastards...
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-4610-N3A1
lol! "two required"
n/a S4
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-461A-N326
or
n/a S5
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-461A-N350
or am i just gonna take it like a man and bendover with this... an engine->turbo manifold gasket.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-4610-N386
could it work? the n/a gaskets look like the same thing to me, minus the cost of your **** virginity.
but at least your not an FD guy out there looking for a second job because of these little bastards...
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-4610-N3A1
lol! "two required"
Last edited by Sir Rupert Hobo; 09-27-04 at 01:50 AM.
09-27-04, 01:52 AM
#2
seven-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: city of houston.... y0!
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
while we're at it, i'm geussing there is no other place that sell these?
http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=13-7110-N3Y4
http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=13-7110-N3Y4
09-27-04, 06:07 PM
#5
seven-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: city of houston.... y0!
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah, i should, but you gotta figure, there's always that one chance that you'll get some new guy who'll just want you to spend more
just wanted to see if anyone tried it first.
just wanted to see if anyone tried it first.
09-27-04, 06:47 PM
#6
It's a Hammer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richland WA
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I made my own gaskets out of a sheet of make your own header gasket material. It was about $8 total for DP, Turbo & Manifold. You do need a hole punch for the bolt holes.
Trending Topics
09-28-04, 04:59 PM
#8
Emerald Triangle for life
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't use generic felt gasket material for rotary gaskets. It just doesn't last. (Trust me. The gaskets I got at NAPA went in less than 200miles...)
I made my first set of metal gaskets out of 1/8" copper sheet that I got out of the local metals scrapyard. I cut the outer shape with a cheapie recip saw using medium metal blades and then cut the inner shape with a Dremel. (Took forever!) These days I use a set of bi-metal hole saws with the centering bit replaced by a short length of pointed rod stock. The bolt holes are easy with any drill. When you're done, heat it with a propane torch until it just starts to glow and dunk it in water to anneal and you're ready to install.
I made my first set of metal gaskets out of 1/8" copper sheet that I got out of the local metals scrapyard. I cut the outer shape with a cheapie recip saw using medium metal blades and then cut the inner shape with a Dremel. (Took forever!) These days I use a set of bi-metal hole saws with the centering bit replaced by a short length of pointed rod stock. The bolt holes are easy with any drill. When you're done, heat it with a propane torch until it just starts to glow and dunk it in water to anneal and you're ready to install.
09-30-04, 12:46 AM
#9
It's a Hammer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richland WA
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought the copper gasket off ebay and they didn't work. The home made gasket have been working good for about 3 months now. They are metal sided on one side. I doubled up and sandwiched them together with the metal on the outside. They work great, you need a material that will compress to seal good and they do but the copper was too hard.
09-30-04, 12:48 AM
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just get scrapfc to make them for you, his gaskets are cheap and top notch quality.. i have a Turbo - manifold gasket and dp - turbo gasket that he made out of copper, and they're awesome..
Last edited by Impreza2RX7; 09-30-04 at 12:55 AM.
09-30-04, 07:43 PM
#12
Emerald Triangle for life
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Impreza2RX7: Thanks for the props! I'm glad to hear they're working for you...
The single most important thing for preventing leakage is to be sure the surfaces are true. If you're blowing stock gaskets all the time, it's probably because the flanges are warped or you're not torquing to spec. No gasket (Especially a less-conforming metal one) is going to work properly until the real problem is addressed.
However, if your flanges are true and smooth, your fastener torque is right and it's still leaking, then it's time to have a chat with the folks who sold you those copper gaskets. They may be uneven or insufficiently annealed.
BYW, I'm getting out of doing the engine-manifold gaskets for the moment. It's just not cost-effective with the tools I have. The smaller ones are fine, but I would have to charge $50 to make any money on the engine-manifolds and I'm sure no-one wants to pay that.
The single most important thing for preventing leakage is to be sure the surfaces are true. If you're blowing stock gaskets all the time, it's probably because the flanges are warped or you're not torquing to spec. No gasket (Especially a less-conforming metal one) is going to work properly until the real problem is addressed.
However, if your flanges are true and smooth, your fastener torque is right and it's still leaking, then it's time to have a chat with the folks who sold you those copper gaskets. They may be uneven or insufficiently annealed.
BYW, I'm getting out of doing the engine-manifold gaskets for the moment. It's just not cost-effective with the tools I have. The smaller ones are fine, but I would have to charge $50 to make any money on the engine-manifolds and I'm sure no-one wants to pay that.
Last edited by ScrapFC; 09-30-04 at 07:46 PM.
10-01-04, 08:20 PM
#13
It's a Hammer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richland WA
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ScrapFC
The single most important thing for preventing leakage is to be sure the surfaces are true. If you're blowing stock gaskets all the time, it's probably because the flanges are warped or you're not torquing to spec. No gasket (Especially a less-conforming metal one) is going to work properly until the real problem is addressed.
However, if your flanges are true and smooth, your fastener torque is right and it's still leaking, then it's time to have a chat with the folks who sold you those copper gaskets. They may be uneven or insufficiently annealed.
However, if your flanges are true and smooth, your fastener torque is right and it's still leaking, then it's time to have a chat with the folks who sold you those copper gaskets. They may be uneven or insufficiently annealed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
