Zanity

iTrader: (1)

so i finally got my fc running good enough to drive after getting this new throttle body.
still have a problem though, the vacuum hose that goes on the bottom of the tb, well that part is broken and sealed.
so I'm missing one hose to go to the thermovalve thing.
more on that later though.

so i decide to take it for a half mile drive to the park in my neighborhood.
of course though, no hood, no seats, no plates, no carpet.
now there are hardly any cops in this neighborhood and only at midnight.
but as soon as we pull into the park, boom 3 cops less then ten feet away.
at this point my mind is going "oh shyte,oh shyte,oh shyte!"
they all stare and point and talk but no one decides to go after me.
guess someone died or something.
but yeah. i thought i was screwed for sure.

i have problems now though.
that vacuum leak previously mentioned prevents me from really going passed 50% throttle otherwise it loses power instantly and tries to die.
i think its that vacuum that's causing it anyways.

the car overheats fast too, seems like I'm missing coolant too.
i had over filled it and the reserve tank but after driving we noticed it was gone.
and it wasn't smoking so we don't think it burned it up.


so list of things left to do.

brake master cylinder
vacuum leak
buy and cut new carpet
figure out why it overheats
reassemble most of the interior parts

but i work everyday, school it up weekdays, and put in girlfriend time on weekends.
so it doesn't look like she'll be finished anytime soon.
not to mention i was sick for a few days.
but driving it did re-inspire me.

calpatriot

Before you invest in anything else, find out where the coolant is going. First thing I would do is take a sample of the coolant to a radiator shop and have it chemically checked for the presence of exhaust gases. If they are there, you have a blown coolant seal, and it may be that the exhaust gases are entering the cooling system at the break in the seal and blowing the coolant out through the overflow system. (Been there, done that).

A vacuum leak is more likely to cause problems at idle and low power than at high power (where the vacuum is low and it sucks in less air).

Does the car show any trouble codes?

Zanity

iTrader: (1)

when i get around to working on it again i'll do that.
it idles fine and drives at cruising speed fine.
we haven't checked codes recently but last we checked it didn't have any, which is actually a little surprising.

calpatriot

My experience (which is limited to working on one car, my 86 NA), is that the ECU does not always provide a code when something is wrong. Mine would drive fine sometimes and not others, and when it did not drive well it showed no codes. Eventually I figured out that when it drove fine, it *did* show a code. Turns out when it correctly sensed the O2 sensor was not there, the ECU went into limp mode and the car ran well. When it (incorrectly) decided the O2 sensor was working (it was actually disconnected), it tried to adjust the mixture based on the (non-existent) O2 signal, and the car ran terribly.

Is your problem present under all conditions, i.e. both warm and cold?

The O2 signal (or the green lamp test) should tell you if the poor running condition corresponds with an overly lean or overly rich condition.

If it is a vaccum leak, you should see a lean condition during the problem.

Your missing vacuum hose on the thermovalve might be part of the problem. That valve allows vaccum to close the double throttle diaphram when the car is cold. When it senses the car has warmed up, it shuts off vacuum to the diaphram, and the double throttle defaults to the open position. It is there to make the mixture more rich during warm up conditions.

If you start the car from a full cold condition and then watch the linkage, you should see the double throttle shaft move counterclockwise (closed) at start, and then back to a clockwise position (open) as the car warms up.

If the diaphram has failed, you may be sucking air in through the failed diaghram, but only while the engine is cold. The thermovalve has a hose on it that goes to the right and under the intake to get to the double throttle diaphram. Is this the one that is missing? Any hose connection which is open is a potential vacuum leak. Does anything change when you cap the hose?

450riden

If im not mistaken the A/T throttle body has a port on the bottom and 3 ports on the thermowax. I do not know if this changes how a M/T runs.

Zanity

iTrader: (1)

so, a new development.
the car will not start at all!
idk whats wrong.
it was fine and now it won't start.
plus the blinker got stuck on randomly the other day.
i dik touch for days and all of the sudden its blinking?
wtf.
had to pull the battery.
getting cold so can't get to it for a while.
i think its become possessed by the demon who possessed all my previous cars.