He posted a write-up for that project. It's here in the 2nd gen section, just search for threads started by him.

i have pro sports guages and there great especially for the price. They're very accurate too. They read the same temps that my haltech is picking up when i have the laptop hooked up to it. Good enough for me.

edit: lmao! i meant to say glow shift....at work and doing like 5 things at the same time. i own glow shifts and for ~$50 a guage i couldnt have gone wrong.

+1, seen them in person, very nice and accurate. Fully customizable, you can even add a Mazda logo :icon_tup:.

No. And the clear cover doesn't come off (without cutting or breaking it). You have to do everything from the back and be careful. I don't know how well the volt meter idea would work as it is in the stock boost gauge location. You would have to mock up a template to see how much clearance you would have. The writeup is here...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/writeup-jspec-gauge-cluster-938512/

^^ yea really, that is a sweet setup but if you're running an s5 cluster...

Actually, I just got out the measuring tape and found that the stock S5 circles are exactly 45mm. What are the chances right?

Of course there may be some mounting issues depending on if the measurement of the gauge is taken from the body of the gauge, or from the face with the lip included. Other than that I imagine it involves cutting the gauge faces since the fuel/temp and oil/volt(or boost) are 2 separate units, NOT 4. There is also a nice hole in the circuit board behind the oil gauge that I was planning to use to run wires.

That said I've got an NA cluster for a turbo car, and I don't want to lose the volt meter (the only decent stock gauge). So that brings me to a question on mounting preferences: Which do you prefer boost gauge on A-pillar or steering column?

I'm not sure where they take the measurement from but the body is larger than 45mm, just slightly. The face is definitely bigger (50mm maybe?) And that is where u might hit a snag. The stock outer gauges are pretty close to the edge of the cluster (boost/oil) if memory serves, but I don't have an s5 cluster to verify.

I didn't worry about swapping the volt meter because I have a turbo timer that performs that function, as well as NB O2. But as far as mounting goes the whole reason I did this was to get around mounting a cop beacon on my a pillar.

^^ d'oh! Just looked at your writeup and judging from the pics I certainly have my doubts now about using my s5 cluster...

I didn't think of a turbo timer being an option for the volt meter. It's less important when riding, more for diagnosis really right? Not to mention that it can give a readout from a wideband!? I don't really believe in the necessity of having a turbo timer, but I would buy one just for data reasons.

I'm gonna do some more research... Hope you don't mind if I totally copy your layout sharingan :biggrin:

... ok research done. I'm about 1/2 a second away from ordering a bunch of Prosport stuff along with an Apexi auto timer to take up the slack. I just want a little bit of input from either the Prosport rep or any of you guys who have used these gauges.

Why is there a bunch of difficulty using the stock sender location? If the threads are mismatched doesn't Prosport have an adapter kit? doesn't that work? and if worse comes to worse, isn't it possible to tap new threads into the stock location in the rear iron or will that put a bunch of metal shavings in a really bad place in your engine?

I think it would be a pain in the ass to tap that area being the access and its cast iron btw. it would be much easier to have the waterpump housing tapped and you would get better temps there too. you can see mine here. and it cost 5 bucks to have it tapped
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...o/DSC_3345.jpg

For me the "cost" would be free since drilling and tapping threads is cake.

I was just interested in seeing what could be done for the sake of keeping things simple. If I drill my pump housing I will have a couple extra feet of wire to route, and a redundant stock sender hanging off my rear iron. It doesn't jive wit me Occams razor ye ken?

Besides what about the oil pressure gauge? No fitment issues?

BTW: I know if you run only the pump and alt the stock belt slips at high rpm, but DAMN that thing is excessive dude...

I've got a S5 N/A gauge that I can tear open. There isn't much space between the OEM gauges/dials. I don't see how you could squeeze 45mm gauges in the stock locations.

What I'm thinking is that if I did a similar mod I could loose the OEM volt, buy a volt gauge and put it in my DIN slots. It's something I'd like to have but it doesn't need to be heads-up. Of the 4 small gauges the only one I want to keep is the fuel.

About the senders. For S5 the Prosport temp sender matches threads. S4 are the ones that do not match.

I had it tapped because at the time i couldnt get my hands on a m16 1.5 tap and that is the most common stock metric sensor thread size so I wanted to make it easier to swap out in the future.

Just to confirm the thread pitch on our senders is 1/8" NPT

I can squeeze 45mm gauges in the stock locations because... the stock circles are 45mm around. I used a tape measure.

The problem according to sharingan is that Prosport embellishes the truth a little and says 45mm when it is actually 48mm, not to mention that the face of the gauge is significantly larger than the body.

It may be possible to trim the stock circles a bit to allow the gauges to fit through, but clearances are tight, and In my case I have a spare s4 cluster to dedicate to the cause, so I think I'm just going to rip off sharingans setup.

BTW: just ordered Prosport gauges and Apexi turbo timer... I'll keep yall posted. Wish me luck!

Just thought I would clarify: 45mm, 52mm, 60mm gauges all refer to the body or the size of the hole required to mount them in, then the bezel is what keeps the gauge from falling through the hole. So I went and pulled the 45mm gauges and measured them so you guys would have the exact dimensions for your tight fit location.
The body on the 45mm gauges is 44.60mm and the diam of the bezel is 50.20mm
So to mount three of them across you would need about 150.75mm or about 6 inches. Hope that helps.

Prosport rep said exactly what I was going to. The actual body of the gauge will fit the hole, the problem will be the bezels being wider.

What could be possible is similar to what Bomberman said. Trim the OEM openings but trim them away from each other. The bottom right is the water temp and there is some room towards the tach. Trim it towards the tach and the bezel might be enough to cover the off centered hole so you wouldn't have gaps. Other possibility is to simply reconstruct the gap with a little fiberglass resin and paint it flat black.

This might be a nice little indoor project while waiting for warm weather and the rebuild to be completed.

^^ indeed, I have both an s4 and an s5 cluster so I think I've got a few options when it comes to mounting...we'll see.

That said... and maybe I should be starting another thread for this... I'm not too sure if the s4 cluster will work with my s5. While the plugs fit just fine the circuit boards look totally different, and there are pin/ plug location discrepancies. Does anyone know how this would work? Or am I asking to be 0wn3d by wiring gremlins...:scratch:

^^ bump on my question from before...

Also I got the gauges today and found that they fit the stock circles PERFECTLY It's almost like they were made for it...

BUT due to the clear plastic cover getting in the way of mounting them they cannot actually be used without some serious work to remove the cover. Also since the gauge face sticks out a bit they can't be mounted in the top two locations due to clearance issues.

One small complaint I do have is that the Adapter Kit does not allow the water temp sensor to fit in the smaller size fittings due to the threading being too short, so while this may work for the oil pressure sensor, I won't be able to use the water temp sensor in the stock location even if the adapter fits. LAME:cursing:

Nice, good to know!
As far as the top two locations, that is the beauty of the aluminum panel I made. by cutting out the stock material and mounting the panel on the back side of the cluster you gain 3-4mm of clearance; just enough to keep the gauge face from contacting the clear cover. Plus, even if you had the space there's no way to get them in the holes unless you remove the clear plastic cover....which we've already covered:icon_tdow

Now what you could do is try to take the face off the gauge which would leave the bare face/needle exposed....but good luck mounting that, plus I'm not sure if that would damage the gauge.

Another option would be to cut out the section just like the S4 cluster and use the stock piece to make an adapter panel that will give you the requisite clearance. Looks like its time to bust out the dremmel ;) I can search for the part numbers of the bits if you need them.

Its not the adapter kit, its the sender. if you have the S5 iron it will fit directly , no adapter required. If you have the S4 iron, it won't fit. period. no matter what adapter you have, because the sender is just too big for the hole.

One thing I don't get about your aluminum bit is that it appears to be sandwiched between the cluster and the cover. Wouldn't this make a funny kinda offset gap when you screwed it all together? or is it thin enough that it doesn't matter?

I'm going to home depot tomorrow to buy some aluminum plate btw :nod:

Exactly. 28 gauge isn't all that thick plus it was trimmed so that it only sticks out from between the two sections at the 2 mounting points, further minimizing the "offset"

Any update ? Pics ?

Here are mine....not done yet either. The gauges are spot on too. My peak boost is 22PSI and the gauge reads that every time

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=22931

My Prosports have been fine so far....................



http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/a...7-13202531.jpg

mine too :-)

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...310_185041.jpg