arghx

iTrader: (3)

get the oldschool SAFC, save the money. There's no need for an AFC Neo, it's just a newer looking display. They do the same thing, although the Neo does have a few more gridpoints.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

used SAFC 1 (I like the interface better than the SAFC 2) + used fuel cut defender should be like $150-$200. For your purposes you won't notice a damn bit of difference from the AFC Neo. Put the rest of the money toward fixing all the little bullshit problems this car seems to have.

CyberPitz

Gotcha, the Neo seems to be the type of thing for VTEC engines. As long as there is nothing added that I will miss, I'll take it. I just go with the newest and greatest to prevent future problems. If there IS no difference, heck yeah.

Mr.FC3s

A MBC can lower boost levels. I have seen this done on a DSM

CyberPitz

MBC can lower boost...

I'd actually like ReTed to come in and explain how it's not possible. I've heard it isn't and never really knew WHY.

CyberPitz

Some new information...

I've learned the injector sizes are stock. The only thing different is the 1000cc up front and it's not hooked up. Well then. Makes me even MORE scared.

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

so how many injectors are hooked up on your car altogether.

The S-AFC basically like in the control the air flow of your vehicle. It monitors the cars sensors and adjust accordingly. I know the neo has an easy mode and pro mode on it to make tuning easier or more sophisticated if you like. It also has a initial start up adjust as well. Never used the safc2

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

alright read the article. that extra injector is for use when running higher boost so you car wont blow. should be a wire to hook it up. Mine had 6 injectors on that baby when i got it

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

No, the wastegate actuator is set to open at 5.5psi. A boost controller restricts pressure to the wastegate actuator making it think boost is lower than it really is. Only way to lower boost would be to make the wastegate actuator open at a lower psi with a weaker spring.

Mr.FC3s

thats weird because on a bone stock TSI with the only mod being a 16g an AMS MBC was able to lower the psi. at one point we had the boost set to only 2lbs

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

You're wrong. Maybe you had the MBC inline with the boost gauge?

RETed

You fail.
Now GTFO.
This is why DSM owners are all fucked up.


-Ted

CyberPitz

Well, the injector isn't hooked up, from the looks of it. I'm running stock as hell injectors. Something tells me I'm lucky for not blowing my motor yet. I'm getting this fixed ASAP.

What are your recommendations for running 12 PSI from a stocker turbo?

Mr.FC3s

Ted I hate DSM's as much as you do.

And no I will not leave.....Seeing as how I love RX7's more than any other car out there.

CyberPitz

Time for a new surprise!

I was taking apart the lower portion of my dash looking for something on the passenger side, and I found ANOTHER one of those MBC's. This one has hoses going through the firewall and into two separate nozzle things. I wish I had a camera, but one attaches to the turbo, while the other goes to the LIM? Either way, I need to remove that and reconnect those two nipple thingies and hopefully get some more things resolved with this car!

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Get rid of most of that guys modifications and run an Rtek. They're lightyears better than an Safc. Or, if you're going to run heavy modifications and you've got the means, have someone install some sort of real standalone, just stay away from the E6X.

CyberPitz

I already have me a SAFC. I just need something to control a little fuel and such, nothing major awesome. If I start getting higher in the power, then I'll probably go with a standalone or such, but until then, I'll just run as stock as possible with some up'd boost.

What do you guys feel is a safe boost level to hit with stock injectors? I'm thinking 8 is what I remember hearing, but I could be wrong.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you should rewire your fuel pump before boosting at all

CyberPitz

I'm not sure I should have to rewire, as recently they just installed the walbrow 255 and rewired before me getting it...*That means nothing, I know..* is there a way to test to make sure we're getting voltage all the way through? Where would I hook the voltmeter up?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

Check the voltage at the positive wire for the fuel pump both at idle and under boost. The (+) wire for my '87 TII is black/white right before it goes into the pump.

You should be getting +12v under load.

I just rewired my Walbro this weekend and it made a huge difference. Here's a link to my thread with the diagram for the rewire. In the end I ended up ditching the resistor relay and just running new 12v through a relay to the pump. Worked like a charm.

CyberPitz

Link to thread? I'll have to find some way of measuring the +12v while under boost...someone will have to be in the back hatch measuring lol.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

hehe I forgot the link - https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/quick-electrical-question-about-fuel-pump-rewire-diagram-included-please-look-789895/

you can use a set of alligator clips and longer wires to have a friend measure from the passengers seat.

CyberPitz

Awesome, that will now be added to the huge list of things to do :P

One of the nearer things I want to do is get an O2 sensor, so I can verify I'm not gonna blow something up. Too bad it requires fab work in order to get it goin right. I hear that the SAFC 2 works with the narrow band, though...

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

You could look at the NGK A/Fx wideband, it's an affordable true wideband O2 meter and easy to install, just need to weld in the fitting on the downpipe and you're all set.

CyberPitz

I guess I might as well go get a stock turbo II exhaust to begin with..then somehow find a way to get that fitting welded. I don't know anyplace that welds/anybody with a welder. *Shakes fist at Joplin*

Isn't there a specific location to get it welded, like a foot down from the stock O2 sensor?