2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Main electrical system problem.

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Old May 4, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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Main electrical system problem.

This what does work.
Battery is good and connected, terminals are clean.
Headlights, taillights etc.
Stereo on accessory only.
turn the key to run, nothing comes on . . . at all. Main fuse is good too . . .
I'm very bad with wiring issues . . .
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Old May 4, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Maybe your ignition switch plugs are not connected to the front harness. The first jpg shows the three ignition switch plugs.

The plug with two wires, one black and the other black/white carrys the feed from the Main Fuse. That would be the BLACK wire of those two wire.

Turn the key to ON, and the BLACK wire feeds power thru the switch to the B/W, B/R and L colored wires to feed the interior fuse box's fuses. It also feeds the B/G wire that is the wire for the starter solenoid. That B/G is a single wire plug of the ignition switch plugs.

Headlights have nothing to do with the ignition switch or Main fuse.

I've no idea why your stereo or what ever plays unless it's on the Batt bus of the interior fuse box (not igniton switch related at all).
Attached Thumbnails Main electrical system problem.-starter.jpg   Main electrical system problem.-fuseboxthree.jpg  
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Old May 5, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Yeah its weird it acts like a short because of you click it over to RUN you can see the warning lights and S-AFC flicker for just a second. On a good note we towed the car home last night so i don't have to worry about it getting broken in to or impounded. I replaced the ignition switch with another one, but the symptoms remain the same.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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If the warning lights and SAFC light up for a moment, then it sounds like a battery cable terminal at the battery or the battery cables negative cable not being bolted down to the bell housing/starter long bolt one.

Or a failed battery internally. Swap batterys.

Or simply do this. Find the three ignition switch plugs. Pull them apart. Find the plug with two wires, one BLACK and the other BLACK/WHITE.

Also find the ignition switch plug that is BLACK/GREEN (possibly BLACK/RED on some cars, but if black/red make sure it's the black/red that is all by itself in a single wire connector. NOT the red/black in the two wire connector.

Get a piece of wire bare at each end. Put one end of that wire into the pure BLACK wires terminal. The other end momentarily into the BLACK/GREEN wire. Starter will turn over if the clutch is pushed in, proving you have power on the BLACK wire that feeds everything.

That BLACK wire comes from a single wire connector six inches below the engine bay fuse box. Fed by the MAIN FUSE.

So try that and write back if the starter turned over or not. Car will not start. Just the starter will turn over proving you have power to that point in the car. Well worth doing.

All wire colors were on the plugs on the FRONT harness, NOT the color of the wires on the ignition switch pigtail.

Removal of the short a/c duct below the steering wheel will be required. Two phillip screws.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:10 AM
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I'll replace the positive battery cable then, because the battery and ignition wires are in good shape.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 03:39 AM
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Naw. Just check the end fittings on the cables, don't replace the whole cable.

But I'd do what I suggested with the green/black jumpered to the pure black wire to see if it is indeed a lack of power to the ignition switch. And or see if the connector that feeds power to the pure black wire of the ignition switch is any good (the single wire connector six inches below the engine bay fuse box).
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Old May 9, 2009 | 07:03 AM
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Replaced a large section of the main positive cable and the positive cable that runs to the fuse block, and tidied up the starter wires, all is well.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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Never mind its back again -_-. I'm going to stare at a wiring diagram for a while . . . I'll try what you suggested Hailers.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Seems to be a bad connection either at the battery posts or at the engine bay fuse box. Can't tell from here.

Put the key to ON and make the car fail again. Leave the key on when it fails, then go to the battery and wiggle the wires to regain the power. Something like that, to ID the problem.

That Glen Weaver seems to be the place to go in AZ for RX engines.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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Sell it now!!!

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