2jzfc

During tear down of my 6-port 13b I lost the end play spacer and now that I'm needing to measure end play I cannot. So my question is this, which spacer should I buy?? I know this is a difficult question to answer, but does anybody know the factory size spacer? Or did each engine get a different spacer from factory depending on the end play at time of assembly? I'm thinking about just ordering every size from Atkins or Mazdatrix but it's going to be over $80 from either site after shipping. That's a lot of wasted money if you ask me... I mean, I guess I could always return the ones I don't use, if they allow that... Or buy one, test it and if it's off buy the next one based off the measurement? Any ideas as to which one I should start off with would be great.

PinkRacer

There's not one factory size. I took apart 4 S4 N/A engines and got 4 different spacers out of them.

For reference here are the options for 1979 - 1992:

Stamp Part Number Thickness (mm)
S 8871-23-129 8.12mm
T 8534-11-518 8.10mm
X 0839-11-506 8.08mm
K 8519-11-517 8.06mm
Y 0839-11-508 8.04mm
V 0839-11-502 8.02mm
Z 0839-11-509 8.00mm

Aaron Cake talks about end play spacers at about the 44-45 minute mark of this video. He notes a V spacer is common.

The larger the end play spacer the more end play you will have. You could start with a V or even a Y and work your way larger as you go, or you could grab a drawer full of them. I ended up having to go for a larger one. I had V, Y, K, and X to choose from.

2jzfc

Yeah I called up Atkins and spoke with somebody on the phone, he suggested to start with a K. But then I spoke to a local rotary engine builder (Rotary Doctor) and he explained nine times out of ten when he rebuilds a 13b with used plates and housings he is typically a Z or V. I'm going to go a head and order a V and go from there.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Better to follow the FSM, then use a digital vernier to check sizes, then subtract to come up with the proper size needed.

Sorry if this isn't the easy answer you're looking for.

edit: no, that's really too much work, now that I checked the FSM again. Well, not too much but you'd have to measure quite a few parts since you don't have any spacer at all.

Get an "S" to make sure you have too much end play, then use a dial indicator to see how much over you are. Then use that to get a thinner spacer.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Start with a V spacer. If you buy new Torrington bearings at the same time, you'll probably be able to stick with the V. Almost every engine I see is a V from the factory.

2jzfc

Yeah I bought the master rebuild kit from Atkins, so just about everything is new. I did buy a V spacer and I'm at around .0020 so that seems to be the one to use!

Also, Aaron thank you VERY much for all of your videos I think I watched your engine build video 20+ times and followed it as I built this engine. You are the bee's knees..

PinkRacer

Aaron's calming voice has walked me through more than one build, I'll tell you that. lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What the video doesn't show is the mad scramble to find another inner coolant seal because one of the ones supplied in the rebuild kit was split. Thankfully there was a spare around the shop. Now I always keep several spares and check the ones supplied with the kit. Equals less swearing halfway through the build.