s5 tii 100k miles
very slowly loosing brake fluid from clutch master even when not driving
please help what can the problem be
most likely lines? or cylinder?

 

Check for leaks around the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, ALL associated lines, and definitely check the brake calipers. This should be fairly easy to track down.

How has your brake pedal pressure been?
This has been happening over how long of a time-span??

 

My break pedal pressure doesn't seem good.
There is quite a bit of pedal travel before brakes start biting well and I got new Hawk HPS.
I'm not sure when the issue started appearing I haven't driven that car all that much since I recently got it.
Since break fluid is see through and is leaking not so badly how will I notice where it's leaking from?

 

Touch and smell. Touch the clutch line that comes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. If there is a liquid on your finger, smell it. Compare it to what you smell when you open the clutch master cylinder.

(I meant to ask how your clutch pedal pressure was. Not brake pedal.)
Sorry... I don't know why I mentioned the brakes earlier. Forget anything I had mentioned about the brakes. Blah...

 

It's most likely the clutch lines if the car has a OEM one that has not been replaced; OEM are rubber ones.

Check the master cylinder too, take a dry cloth or paper towel and wipe underneath the cylinder; if there are leaks you would see easily through that or by smell.

I have recently replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and changed to SS clutch lines. A few hundred dollars but it's good pre-caution work.

 

I think I found where it is leaking from.
Between the clutch master and the firewall there is an area where the paint is corroded.
The paint there is wavy and cracked and if I am not mistaken break fluid would do that.
I looked around the lines and it looks dry so I would assume I gotta replace the master.

 

Yep sounds like the master is bad. You have two options, replace or rebuild. Its not terrible to rebuild but you will need a small hone to smooth the bore of the cylinder out and of course a rebuild kit which will have the piston, spring and seals. But if that scares you replace it as a whole and you could also swap out the soft line for stainless and replace the slave at the same time for about another $50.

 

I'm thinking to order both master and slave from Rock Auto.
They have a few different brands any recommendations which one to order - DORMAN, BECK/ARNLEY , WAGNER, BRUTE POWER, BENDIX?
To make sure I don't get the wrong one are all FC master and slave cylinders interchangeable?
Oh and also my line that goes from the master to the slave is solid metal.
Are there any other lines and if so where are they?

 

There are some big differences in price. I forgot which brand master cylinder I ordered, but mine was somewhat cheap... And I have had absolutely no leaking issues.

From what I have seen, the master cylinders are interchangeable series to series and model to model. The slave cylinders, however, between model to model (N/A to TII) are NOT interchangeable. I actually recieved an N/A slave cylinder for my TII transmission, and it did not fit right.

How is your line from the master cylinder to slave cylinder completely metal? There should be a hose that comes up from the slave cylinder, to the hard line, to the master cylinder. Below is what the stock hose looks like.


(This hose is currently on eBay for $3.00 - I believe Rotary Resurrection is the seller.)

You can buy stainless steel clutch hoses here: Racing Beat SS clutch hose or here: Mazdatrix SS clutch hose