Can anyone tell me how to loop the power steering lines? More particular which to lines and where. Even a short walk through would be extremely helpful.When I searched I saw pictures on an FD, but I could not get enough information from that. Also, when I search the only thing i'm finding are links to a page thats demonstrates turning the rack into a manual, or either people saying just swap it for a manual rack instead of looping lines. Can some please give me some assistance with this.

Thanks,

 

I've searched for the same info and came up short.

Basically the way I understand it is that you drain most of the fluid but not all of it. I've been told.....but never tried it, that you can simply plug all the pressure lines and not even worry about looping it. Again, i've never tried it.

 

The simple answer is: Plug everything at the valve body (Where the u-joint assembly from the steering column meets the rack) and then cut off the metal lines that connect the valve body to the middle of the rack body somewhere close to the fittings on the rack body (The middle of the long, roughly stick-shaped part of the rack) and affix a short length of rubber fuel hose
As long as you have this "loop line" connecting the two sides of the rack body, PS fluid can be squished from one side to the other when you turn the steering wheel and the hydraulic piston attached to the middle of the rack wants to act as a "master" instead of a "slave".

 

Are these the places to be looped? Highlighted in red on the pick.

 

NO.

There's a fitting on either end of the long cylindrical piece on the right hand end. Between these is the piston that gets removed when doing it properly. You need to connect one side to the other so that when you move the steering wheel, the fluid isn't trying to be pumped into a confined space, giving you essentially a locked rack.

Do yourself a favour though, do it properly, it'll give better feel and less effort.

 

does anyone have nay pics of whats being attached together becuase I still do not get this. I guess im just an idiot. Im not trying to do anything other than connecting the two lines. Im not trying to go through everything like in the walk through I saw. Pics would be a great help though, even a like above informing me of what lines.

 

Here you go. This should explain it well enough.

BTW, Black91n/a is a least partially correct: Steering effort and feel is improved by doing the job right. On the other hand, I did it the quick and dirty way a few years ago and haven't regretted it.

 

One of the best parts about doing it properly is that it gives better feel. When you weld up the pinion shaft like TitaniumTT's writeup on the teamfc3s forum it eliminates the last sources of slop in the system and makes it that much better. You won't know how much better it is untill you try it.

 

Thanks, just what I needed.

how much difference in steering effort is it in this than just running with the belt of? I have had my car like this for a little bit because there is a leak in the high pressure hose. Im use to it at the moment, but it is heavy as hell at times. Im just wondering when I loop the lines will it be at least 25% easier too steer.

actually you don't have to answer that. I just decided to fix the power steering and leave it on.

 

Belt off is no way to go, it'll be WAY harder than if it's done properly, because now you're having to pump that fluid back and forth to and from (through?) the pump.

 

2 words: Half Assed

Do it right: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

 

In my 1st post I said I already read that and I am look for an easier (half assed) way to do it lol. Anyway, I decided to stick with power steering. Thanks for your input though

 

if i would go with manual steering i would actually get a manual rack but good choice with staying powered its a pain sometimes when it is manual

 

How i looped my lines.

 

Yea, that does nothing, you might as well just plug those holes.

You need to loop the lines on the body of the rack, because as the rack moves back and forth there's a piston attached to it that wants to pump fluid in and out of the rack, and if you don't loop them and there's still some fluid in it, then the rack will go solid once the piston reaches that fluid and can't compress it or move it out of the way. By looping the line you're connecting the two sides, so as one contracts it pushes the fluid to the side that's expanding, so that there's no problems.

 

How did you plug the holes on the valve body? Find new bolts or plug up the hole in the stock bolts?

 

Welded them shut.

Why do so many people 1/2 *** things? The best part is they give feedback on halfassed things.
"Stay power, de-powered sucks" When they haven't even done it right. Tards

 

For me, its more of a time related thing. Right now I need to get it done. I would absolutely love to do the full depower, but school takes up a lot of time and I don't have the time needed to get a full depower done.

Secondly, they have it all wrong. Powered sucks nuts and is worse no matter what type of depower you have done.

 

I removed my PS unit entirely, but my lines haven't been looped yet. I don't have anything plugged, and I'm curious as to whether the car will freeze if water (vapor?) gets in there. It most likely will, but I'm attempting to source a manual rack anyway.

To answer your question though, it is at least 30-45% easier to turn without the PS pump than with it. This is not an exaggeration, I can turn the wheel when the car is at a standstill. It's difficult, but I can do it. When I had the PS pump connected, it was all I could do to turn it when the car was moving slowly, it was nearly impossible to fully turn the wheel at a stop.

 

That's becuase you're manualy pumping fluid through all the cavities in the rack as well as through the pump and all the lines. By removing the pump and looping the lines you're removing some of the resistance. By de-powering it my way you are removing all possible resistance (and slop) and the only means it is heavier than a manual rack is the lack of mechanical advantage that the manual rack has. 20:1 as opposed to 15.2:1

 

I personally would prefer the tighter de-powered rack over the manual.

 

I think I would too. A good friend of mine has a manual but I haven't driven it. We are starting a swap now so it'll be many many months before I can report back on the difference between a 15.2 and manual. The 15.2 done my way is SURPRISINGLY EASY at a dead stop with 225/40 sticky tires & a smaller diameter wheel.

 

I just cut off and crimped the hoses. Works fine, is fast, but is a bit ugly, I don't really care though, it serves the purpose just fine.

 

Bringing this one back. I'd like to loop my lines for now. TTT's write up is great, but I don't want to make any irreversible changes. I want to be able to go back to power steering if I need/want to. If I get a junkyard rack as a spare I'd like to follow TTT's more thorough work...but for now looping will have to do.

I'd love to be able to get threaded plugs to...well plug, and threaded hose adapters to loop the lines. That way if I ever need to sell the car I can put the power steering back together. Does anyone know what size and thread I'd need. It'd be nice to be able to have everything on hand and be able to do the job start to finish without going out for parts.

Rotarysurfer, what size are those brass fittings you used?

 

I got all 3 holes plugged off. the 2 lines in the center of the rack are looped but a bit diffrenet. i took a T. huge vaccum type T ran a line to each end then on the center of the T i put a hose about couple inches long and ran it to a crotch rocket brake resevor. there very little resivors and have screw on lids. now i took the lid and drilled a hole in the top and put a AN fitting in it then attached a breather filter to it. why i did it this way idk just experiment, see if making it breath helps it turn easier.