I've looked locally and told that none of the shops have vendors that can supply parts for the Mitsubishi alt on 2nd gens. They do the work on other makes and models, just can't get the parts for mine.

I'd love to get 100 or more amps out of the OEM alternator. I'm willing to ship my alternator if someone knows a shop that can do the work.

I know what's going to be said already. Do a Taurus alt, FD alt, alt relocation to the a/c and p/s bracket, etc. None of those work for my application. I have an FD alt and can't really use it without causing other problems. I have TMIC and the FD alt is too fat to fit under the TMIC without problems. The alt rubs on the hood and has sheared off material from the hood. Not to mention the annoying rattle it creates.
I've tried putting shorter belts on the FD alt but can't get them on.

For now I"ve gone back to using my S5 alt and the FD is on the shelf. The car isn't back on the road yet and I may not do as much of a stereo. I'm older and those things aren't as important anymore...but it would be nice to keep options open.

 

Stock belt is a 15320. I've had the problem you described and fixed with a 15315. Also have the TMIC AND strut bar. both of which limit how far up you can push the alternator up to get proper tension on the belt due to the larger size of the FD alternator body.

You have to loosen the adjustable mounting bracket bottom bolt to swing it out of the way and completely take off the 14MM main mounting bolt to get enough wiggle to get the smaller belt on. A bit more hassle, but it works.

You can rebuild an FC alternator to get higher AMPs. But result is you need to also get a smaller pulley as you need to get higher rev's to keep the voltage/amps up when at idle.

Are you using extra thick engine mounts? Very very odd that the FD alternator hits your hood.

Sidebar, how bright are your idiot lights with key on? Normal or dim?

 

I've done that trick with one size smaller belt. My problem with sound is mostly the alternator making contact with the TMIC. And then the TMIC rubbing on the hood. My old hood scoop was cracked across the thin top and it amplified the rattling. What is rubbing on the hood on mine is the bracket for the throttle cable. I've had it bolted to one of the alternator through bolts that hold the case. I have to be very conscious about making sure I push the bracket down some when working on the engine.

One possible problem with mine is that I'm not using an OEM coupler from turbo to charge pipe. I went to Lowes and got plumbing coupling. That may have my TMIC sitting a little differently.

I never noticed a difference in my idiot light. BUT it's been over a year since I've driven my turbo vert that had the FD alt on it. I've got the rebuild running, but not running well. I've got an exhaust leak among other problems. I've simplified everything for now. Running no stereo system, I put the S5 alt on. Point being I'm not using the FD alt ATM and can't remember how the lighting was when I was using it.

What I wish is that someone would design an alt relocation bracket that used the P/S location but allowed you to keep your A/C if you had the A/C only bracket.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-...item2c5a99579b

Does no one here look on ebay? s5 alternator upgraded to 140 amps.... $145 shipped and no core charge. Sell your stock one after and you can get $50 back.

 

Ah, stock hood might be the difference. I'm running an Fiber Images Carbon Fiber hood on my S4 TurboVert.

My FD alternator isn't hitting the TMIC. The bracket that holds the wire loom off the oil injector rod is pressing the loom a bit against the TMIC. But the TMIC bolts down fine and inlet and outlet hoses line up fine.

Anyway, just know that you need to find a smaller diameter pulley if you go the up Amp rebuild route. Otherwise your battery will be discharging at every stop light.