looking for an engine
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 92
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From: Easton, PA
new engine
hey guys my 88 SE has a blown motor so i'm going to swap in a J-SPEC Turbo II from another series 4. i'm tring to make a list of all the things i need it would be a big help if anyone who has done this has a list or knows where i can find one. also i'm not sure where i'm going to find an ECU and wiring harness, if you have sugestions.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Easton, PA
looking for an engine
hey guys my engine for my 88 se is gone, and i want to get a j-spec turbo II for a series 4. anyone know of places, i know corksport. are there any that sell it cheaper?
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
At the top of the page is a little button that says 'search', you're bound to find at least 400 threads on the subject, most of them including me as I've done exactly that. ECU and Harness? Check out http://www.rotaryresurrection.com or ebay. I'd normally be nice enough to provide you with what you asked, but this has been covered too many times, and seeing as you're new it's better to get in the habbit of searching. 
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Frankly speaking...you don't need the turbo harness. In fact things should be easier if you use the harness you have. There are but four, maybe five wires that are different, and four of the five can be ignored.
The one wire you'll NEED to alter if you use a N332 Turbo computer, is the one for the switching actuator on the turbo. The pin on the ECU the turbo uses for this switching solenoid, is the pin the N/T uses for the split air solenoid. You just have to cut the two wires at the plug where the split air plug is, and attach about two feet of wire to those old wires so it will reach the switching solenoid. Big deal.
And the brake booster vacuum feed line has to be altered. Just find a hose that will connect b/t the new source of vac on the turboii to the old source of vac. They are about a foot apart now. Not a big deal.
Which brings up something that has always confused me on these conversions. They always talk about a check valve from the turbo to the brake boost feed line. Rubbish. And having to buy a turbo clutch slave cylinder. Pure cods wollop.
If you keep your old harness, you'll have no problems with the alternator plug. You will have problems in this area if you just change the harness that runs on the right hand side of the engine bay.
If you use your present transmission you have a problem in that the starter won't work with the turbo flywheel. You'd have to swap flywheels.
You NEED a turbo boost/pressure sensor for the TurboII ECU to work right. Just put in a want ad for a boost sensor for a series four and TurboII ECU for a series four, like a N332 ECU.
Put in a ad for a turboii fuel pump also. A bit of a must. The car will run without it, but its not sufficient for heavy boost.
So skip the wiring harness, but buy the fuel pump and boost/pressure sensor (turboii sensor is different than N/T, and make sure its not a sensor from the series five. Deadly combination that series four ECU combined with series five boost sensor.
Later after the car is up and running, buy a knock sensor control box. The knock sensor should be a part of the engine, but the control box is located above and to the right of the passengers feet. One wire will have to be run to the knock sensor on the engine, a source of 12v, a ground and a wire to the ECU. Big deal. Car will run just fine without it....but you need to install one eventually for saftey.
Ooops. You have to think about the exaust. You need a downpipe. I think its best to buy the Mazdatrix downpipe with presilencer. Item 16207 at http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-extii.htm I got a aftermarket downpipe with the engine I bought at the wreckyard and installed it with the straight pipe and catalytic converter. It was noisy at best. The Mazdatrix presilencer muffles great. Nice tone. Quiet. A lot quieter than the N/T with dual exaust from header to tail pipe.
The turbo engine should give you appreciatable increase in hp....but you know that if you go much farther than stock you'll need the turbo transmission and rear half shafts.
Conversions have costs that are not apparent at first thought. The conversion is a lot of hard yakka. Bon Bini
The one wire you'll NEED to alter if you use a N332 Turbo computer, is the one for the switching actuator on the turbo. The pin on the ECU the turbo uses for this switching solenoid, is the pin the N/T uses for the split air solenoid. You just have to cut the two wires at the plug where the split air plug is, and attach about two feet of wire to those old wires so it will reach the switching solenoid. Big deal.
And the brake booster vacuum feed line has to be altered. Just find a hose that will connect b/t the new source of vac on the turboii to the old source of vac. They are about a foot apart now. Not a big deal.
Which brings up something that has always confused me on these conversions. They always talk about a check valve from the turbo to the brake boost feed line. Rubbish. And having to buy a turbo clutch slave cylinder. Pure cods wollop.
If you keep your old harness, you'll have no problems with the alternator plug. You will have problems in this area if you just change the harness that runs on the right hand side of the engine bay.
If you use your present transmission you have a problem in that the starter won't work with the turbo flywheel. You'd have to swap flywheels.
You NEED a turbo boost/pressure sensor for the TurboII ECU to work right. Just put in a want ad for a boost sensor for a series four and TurboII ECU for a series four, like a N332 ECU.
Put in a ad for a turboii fuel pump also. A bit of a must. The car will run without it, but its not sufficient for heavy boost.
So skip the wiring harness, but buy the fuel pump and boost/pressure sensor (turboii sensor is different than N/T, and make sure its not a sensor from the series five. Deadly combination that series four ECU combined with series five boost sensor.
Later after the car is up and running, buy a knock sensor control box. The knock sensor should be a part of the engine, but the control box is located above and to the right of the passengers feet. One wire will have to be run to the knock sensor on the engine, a source of 12v, a ground and a wire to the ECU. Big deal. Car will run just fine without it....but you need to install one eventually for saftey.
Ooops. You have to think about the exaust. You need a downpipe. I think its best to buy the Mazdatrix downpipe with presilencer. Item 16207 at http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-extii.htm I got a aftermarket downpipe with the engine I bought at the wreckyard and installed it with the straight pipe and catalytic converter. It was noisy at best. The Mazdatrix presilencer muffles great. Nice tone. Quiet. A lot quieter than the N/T with dual exaust from header to tail pipe.
The turbo engine should give you appreciatable increase in hp....but you know that if you go much farther than stock you'll need the turbo transmission and rear half shafts.
Conversions have costs that are not apparent at first thought. The conversion is a lot of hard yakka. Bon Bini
Last edited by HAILERS; Apr 28, 2003 at 09:38 PM.
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