LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yes thay are linear.

davidxp6

dont forget the tokico illumina series. i am running that with my tein springs right now, its working out pretty good.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Ah yes, I'll slot them in between the AGX and the Blues, those are the "adjustable" ones, right?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

I say go with the coilovers you mentioned, but in a lower rate, like 8k/6k balance, ditch the rear sway, go dtss eliminators. Invest in some decent tires.

= total Adjustibility.


If those are too stiff, go for like 6/4 balance. You can always get springs cheap online.

Upgrading bushings are optional imo. But its a good idea to get off those oldass bushings.

http://splparts.com/main4/parts/FC3S...on/default.htm

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

My bad, I never really looked at them closely, I figured they were more similar to the eibachs....

The illuminas are good, some argue that they have better dampening than the agx's but they have fewer adjustments (5 vs 8). And the adjustments are more difficult to make on the illuminas, at least in the rear because you have to remove the speakers and adjust them from the top, as opposed to the agx's which are adjusted on the bottom w/ a ****

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Both the Iluminas and the AGX's don't really have much adjustment range despite the number of adjustments. Find some shock dyno's online, they will tell you all you need to know.

Zer0Suvivers

hah someone agrees for me to get the coilovers.. and i will see if i change the spring rates.. im sure it wont be a prob

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Almost halving your spring rates for a shock valved for 12kg/mm springs could result in a ride so stiff that you might as well use steel tubes as shocks instead.

Be sure to get the coilovers re-valved if you decide to go to 8/6's to avoid the problem.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

I cannot emphasize enough that you don't want cheap coilovers. They are cheap for a reason. Mismatched spring rates, shock valving that is all over the place, adjusters that don't do anything... if you're just looking for the slammed look then fine, but don't expect it to handle worth a damn.

Black91n/a

Here, read this: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123666252

That shows why cheap coilovers are cheap.

Zer0Suvivers

ok look. they just dont change the springs. they re valve it to make if fit my needs. so its not just swap and go. the coilovers havent even been made yet..

i know everyone says not to go cheap. but someones gotta be the guinea pig for these new coilovers.. even some of my best friends say not too. but ya know thats how the small companys started out.. by testing a product. and having someone be a guinea pig for it.. so yeah. its a risk im willing to take..

even if they suck as coilovers.. its still better than my super crappy blown struts and all that.. so yeah.. i am going to try it. and i will let everyone know how it comes out. i will post pictures and videos showing the ride quality and the coilovers themselves... until then. grit your teeth and enjoy the ride. lol

anyways its going to be a little until they are made anyways.

Black91n/a

So then, what was the point of this thread anyway? You asked for advice then ignore it? I guess there's no point in me giving any more when it's just ignored. I hope for your sake that you don't get burned too badly when the shocks suck and they die quickly, which they will.

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

He's got it right, what do all the road racers and auto-xers in this thread know about grip driving? Koni or Bilstein doesn't sound nearly as mad tyt3 as Zokoku or whatever the hell they were called.

Can't wait for the "these things handle so well" thread followed by the "I spun out into a curb, what did I break?" thread.

Zer0Suvivers

no i appreciate the advice.. through this thread ive learned some stuff..

like the shitty coilover thread u showed me. and it shows how ksports are crap. and are the same no matter how u adjust them.. because they just tossed on springs. on the same valve setup they use.

but when i get the coilovers. they will have dyno sheets. they will be revalved for the springs i want. and are completely rebuildable. and im going with 8k/6k springs. to they are going to valve them and dyno them to make sure they came out right..

and just because i decided to go with something new. and cheap. doesnt mean i will go like that with everything.. and if u think they will fail quickly then fine.. my friend got some really nice koni coilovers some nice race ones.. and it hasnt been a year yet. and hes got two leaking..

grip isnt just about shocks and springs anyways.

but so far. it looks like im going to get a master bushing set, get dtss eliminator bushings.. larger front swaybar.. i think i will get some anti roll bars. front and back. and when i can. some high quality tires.. but im still searching on thoses.

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

I really wouldn't worry about the sway bars, most guys are running stock ones at best. If you have some extra money, buy tires. 16" sizes are generally pretty reasonable.

Zer0Suvivers

anyways. moving on. im hoping to eventually get some tires.. like 235 wide all around. possibly on some
falken; Azenis RT-615.

and what aftermarket radiator would u recommend? koyo? fluidyne? i know its off topic. but still.. and dont be like. well u wont listen u will go with some other shitty brand. blah blah.

Zer0Suvivers

like 16" rims??

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

Get the Koyo.

And yes, 16" rims. There is quite the price premium on 17" stuff by comparison. The RT615s are a good tire, especially for the price.

Zer0Suvivers

yeah thats what i figured.. i was either going for 17s or 16s. so yeah.. now time to look for some nice 16in rims.

and btw i want this car to look good too...

as for rims.. i dont want something everyone is running. like bbs. though they are nice. and look good on our cars.. i want something else..

Zer0Suvivers

ok u guys win.. i cant wait for them to be made..sooooo.. now.. still in the like 6-700$ range.. and this is just for shocks and struts... but im looking for somewhere i can get them quick. because the cars just too bouncy for my roads.. and with the rain its worse... but i still dunno what to go with.. in terms of springs.. either rb.. or eibach.. still. everyone says something diff about each.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Your best bet is probably a set of Tokico Illuminas or Bilsteins with some Racing Beat springs. If you can find used springs you can save some money.

I worry that there is likely going to be other stuff you have to replace. Strut hats go bad on these cars as they age and they probably need to be replaced. So factor that in as well.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I would go for Tanabe GF210 springs and either Biltstein or Koni's.

Tanabe's are currently the stiffest available spring on the market for the FC now, but they're not really that stiff (3.0 kg/mm, 2.0 kg/mm)

Zer0Suvivers

i will more than likely replace the strut hats when i do the suspension. and after that. im getting a master bushing set. and replacing everything on the underside.

-Six-

iTrader: (10)

I can vouch for that first hand. Bought some cheap Skunk2 full coilovers, horribly dampened and rode like **** and seemed like they were already blown out by the time I took them off; less than 10,000 miles and less than one year of use. I had the APEXi World Sport kit on the same car, and it was leaps and bounds better, albeit a bit more expensive (but still reasonable). I can understand doing things on a budget and upgrading as needed/possible, especially if you are using the car as a DD. However, there is something to be said for doing it right the first time, spending a little more, but being able to leave it alone. (You could get away with $600 suspension now, but if you decide to put better stuff in later, you are spending easily another $1500 = $2100 total cost)

Zer0Suvivers

yeah.. definately understood. ive seen it happen to my friends. but im thinkin about goin with. the kyb agx.. as for shocks.... 1 of the 3. eibach, rb, or the tanabe's