Rotary aviation seals and race springs.

Also, why cant you use a T2 center iron and oil pan and FD front and rear irons and housings? Why wont and FD manifold fit?

 

Only if you want your rotorhousings to look like you took a grinding wheel to them after 10-15k miles.


INtake ports are moved about 2-3 inches on the FD irons versus the FC. You also have no place to put the motor mounts on FD irons, and the FC oilpan would probaly leak if you put it on an FD block.

 

Feel your pain man to blowing an engine. I have went through four engines now. 1 to improper rebuild(don't drink and rebuild), 2 to improper tuning and stupidity and 1 to component failure out of my control(rotor bearing, last owner who rebuilt it was a ******* moron and reused worn beyond limit bearings).

It is always a hard hit to the wallet when the engine lets go. Take RR's advice and let the man rebuild it for you. He is a cocky son of a bitch but the man does fantastic work, a professional businessman and knows his ****. Knows his **** to the T. Plus that's a hell of a deal for a rebuild. ****, doesnt even seem like he would make much of a profit for that price.

Get somesort of EMS on that car when it is back to life. I have a brand new(**** you not) S4 FCON with GCC that would work fine on your set up. I ran mine with 4 720cc and just adjusted the GCC to deal with the pig rich conditions. I was running a hybrid TO4B and it was fun. If you want it give me a shout, I will let it go for cheap.

Anyway get it rebuilt and mod smart.

 

Wow...thanks, I think?

Lol, that's almost signature material there.

 

I figured you would get a kick out of that. Keep up the honest work.

 

Ive heard good and bad about RA seals. Can somebody show me proof of ra seals doing that while premixing properly? I have never actually seen enough proof to discredit them, but after seeing my friend's rotor with the big dent in it that didnt blow any seals i'm willing to use them.

 

Let it sit for a couple of days, and try not to think about it. Then, after a week or two, you will be ready to get it running and back on the road. Thats how i usually handle it. I have had to do this several times, thats the down side to having owned 8 FC's...

 

Mazda did a lot of experimentation to make the rotary viable for street use back in the early days. They started off with soft seals that broke really easily. They tried all kinds of seals and alloys. They had to strike a balance between the seal wearing out too soon because the seal was too soft, and the housing wearing out too soon because the seal was too hard. Either of the 2 parts wearing out results in compression loss, and the need to tear the engine down.

So...it is no better to have a very hard, harsh seal that tears up the housing and requires a teardown, than it is to have a very soft seal that wears out too soon and breaks, and requires a teardown. In fact...which would you rather replace...a 2-300 dollar set of seals, or a 1000 dollar set of housings?

Bottom line, the seals and the housings are both designed to be wear parts. With mazda seals, the seals wear out before the housings in most cases, meaning that a budget refresh can get you back on the road for a grand or so. With some of these aftermarket seals I have been able to tear down after 20-50k miles, the seals might survive, but the housings are going to be trash, and the engine STILL has to come apart. Pick your poison.

I have the remnant of an engine built 2 years ago with new rotorhousings and RA seals, if you would like to see. Engine was premixed for the most part, to my knowledge.

 

I would like to see as it would be a deciding factor in my engine build as i would luike the engine to go 60k before being overhauled at least (not a daily car either)

 

well guys I have decided on a few things, I am going to rebuild the engine while I am in Puerto Rico for vacation. I am leaving next monday. I have heard nothing but good things from RR, but getting all the parts for free in PR I will just buy a set of housing once I get there and only build the short block and then I will ship it here and trasfer all of the accesories he has an e-shaft and once I get here I will take apart my engine and give him the one that is in car, my friend gets discounts at mazda so I will get a full set for the rebuild it. Now the big decision is if I should sell the megasquirt to pay part of the rebuild and get something else later or keep it and go in the hole for the full amount of the rebuild.