Long Lasting Rebuild....
01-05-07, 03:12 PM
#26
Rotax?! WTF is a Rotax!?
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So with my rebuild should i be worried?!
- Atkins Rebuild Kit (Minus APEX seals)
- Mazda OEM Apex seals and Apex Springs
- JHB Cerment Housings (now i believe these are from before the bad batches that JHB had (see kevin landers post in the GG/BG section)
- Reused my Irons (they were in good condition came from a motor with 160KMs)
- Street Ported Motor
- Hybrid Turbo (pushing 8 PSI right now)
- Got bigger injectors 720cc Secondaries
- Rtek 1.7 ECU (also have emanage but its not installed yet)
- Walbro 255LPH Pump
- Koyo Radiator
-Removed the AC and all that **** so more flow going to the RAD, however i do have a FMIC setup that i have to install
- Greddy VSPL FMIC kit (not installed see above)
So should i be worried? and also whats this about the Viton Seals being bad? any truth to this?
- Atkins Rebuild Kit (Minus APEX seals)
- Mazda OEM Apex seals and Apex Springs
- JHB Cerment Housings (now i believe these are from before the bad batches that JHB had (see kevin landers post in the GG/BG section)
- Reused my Irons (they were in good condition came from a motor with 160KMs)
- Street Ported Motor
- Hybrid Turbo (pushing 8 PSI right now)
- Got bigger injectors 720cc Secondaries
- Rtek 1.7 ECU (also have emanage but its not installed yet)
- Walbro 255LPH Pump
- Koyo Radiator
-Removed the AC and all that **** so more flow going to the RAD, however i do have a FMIC setup that i have to install
- Greddy VSPL FMIC kit (not installed see above)
So should i be worried? and also whats this about the Viton Seals being bad? any truth to this?
01-05-07, 03:34 PM
#28
Passing life by
The viton seals are fine; I only use them in race motors. Good choice on the seals.
I do not believe in the cermit but I only have limited experience with it as I chose cryogenics.
I think your setup will run great. As always everyone will have there own opinion and bias.
I do not believe in the cermit but I only have limited experience with it as I chose cryogenics.
I think your setup will run great. As always everyone will have there own opinion and bias.
01-05-07, 03:39 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by micaheli
I had a conversation today with a reputable shop that rebuilds engines... I won't list their name because they are great people and know their ****. I just need to get a second opinion about it.
Basically the conversation was about Atkins Rotary rebuild quality... My last 91NA got a rebuild and I loved it. However, I only got about 25,000 miles on it, it was great and pulled hard. The individual I spoke with basically said that they see a LOT of engines blown after only 10-30k miles from Atkins... His argument was that their viton oil rings weren't designed for the kind of movement that rotors make and end up leaking WAY before the OEM counterpart. Also, the atkins seals, made of a softer steel, are more porous.. lots of gaps in the steel under a microscope... they don't make as efficient of a seal. He also stressed the fact that they shouldn't be using used rotor housings and that you can't get a decent rebuild to last any longer than 30-45k miles on a used rotor housing. The ONLY way to get another 100k miles out of an engine is to replace the rotor housings, bearings, and use an OEM rebuild kit.
I'm trying to get the most out of my money when I get an engine... I had assumed that my 2500 dollar budget was going to be sufficient, but its starting to look more like 3000-3500. Looks like I'll have to sell a kidney.
Any thoughts?
Basically the conversation was about Atkins Rotary rebuild quality... My last 91NA got a rebuild and I loved it. However, I only got about 25,000 miles on it, it was great and pulled hard. The individual I spoke with basically said that they see a LOT of engines blown after only 10-30k miles from Atkins... His argument was that their viton oil rings weren't designed for the kind of movement that rotors make and end up leaking WAY before the OEM counterpart. Also, the atkins seals, made of a softer steel, are more porous.. lots of gaps in the steel under a microscope... they don't make as efficient of a seal. He also stressed the fact that they shouldn't be using used rotor housings and that you can't get a decent rebuild to last any longer than 30-45k miles on a used rotor housing. The ONLY way to get another 100k miles out of an engine is to replace the rotor housings, bearings, and use an OEM rebuild kit.
I'm trying to get the most out of my money when I get an engine... I had assumed that my 2500 dollar budget was going to be sufficient, but its starting to look more like 3000-3500. Looks like I'll have to sell a kidney.
Any thoughts?
and then theres power. the better the chamber sealing the more power you make. is going to seal up with some worn out rotors and ratty rotor housings?
also unless you're doing something weird, you should be using oem stuff, its gonna last the longest
01-05-07, 03:39 PM
#30
i just don't know how they can impregnate the cermet into a surface like chrome and expect it to stick. i also do not believe in cermet coated rotor housings or rotor faces. it works fine on porous materials like the iron housing wear faces though and a completely ceramic apex seal.
01-05-07, 03:43 PM
#31
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Karack
i just don't know how they can impregnate the cermet into a surface like chrome and expect it to stick. i also do not believe in cermet coated rotor housings or rotor faces. it works fine on porous materials like the iron housing wear faces though and a completely ceramic apex seal.
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