TurboIIRyan

I am removing my motor at the moment because it has seized up pretty bad and have decided to get it rebuild by rotary resurrection. This is the first time I have really dug into the engine this much and its fairly easy so far besides the stubborn bolts.

Along the way I have been removing things I dont need like the airpump, ac, ps, acv, etc... (including all the parts in each system), so far my box of stuff I'm keeping is real small compared to my box of stuff to throw away. Now I want to dig into the vac rack. I would like to remove it to have the 4 vacuum hoses everyone is talking about but I have no clue what to cap, what not to cap, and what to reroute.

I have read a lot of posts about this, and all of them are many pages long, referring to different threads, that refer to more threads, that dont really have a good write up on this. This has only added to the confusion.

If you guys could give me a step by step of what to take off, what to cap, etc... that would help a lot. It would also help a lot of other people who are confused as much as I am.

Hopefully this rebuild goes as planned, it'll be a beast when its done.

Thanks for any help!

TurboIIRyan

Anyone?

I want to remove it today

M's

Are you willing to run pre-mix? if so i can help you out. what abotu BOV? stock or aftermarket? then what about the PCV system?

I know hwo frustrating it can be to get info, on mine i just figured it out myself. It's actually not that bad.

I ripped it all out, i mean everything. And now I just run one line off the rear side on the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. Then i capped all the other lines on the upper intake. After that there is one line on the base of the upper intake where it meets the lower intake. I ran my bov off of that one and T-ed it into my pressure sensor. I think that's everything. I blocked off the oil meter system and that vac line. There were also two smaller lines on the rear of the manifold that i jsut redid, i think they go to the throttle body, i'd have to go out and look but i'm feeling too lazy to pull the intercooler today. Good luck man. And you actually should wait on everything untill you get the engine back. he's gonna remove everything anyways so why waste time when you'll have to do it again anyways?

TurboIIRyan

Well I'm just giving him the shortblock so I will be taking everything off myself, cleaning and polishing everything, getting it all good. The motor will be street ported and I'm getting a corksport exhaust, corksport ecu, walboro 255, safc, fluidyne radiator, electric fan and an fd alternator along with gauges and all that good stuff.... maybe a hybrid turbo upgrade as well.. This is my winter project, but I gotta get this motor out before it gets too cold.

I'll read up more on the premix idea but if its safe.. why not? My bov is stock, but I did the DIY BOV and it works perfectly. I had to do it because I made a custom 3" TID without a BOV return. May get an aftermarket soon. The PCV system is stock. And I still have twin scroll but probably wont with a turbo upgrade.

What would you suggest I do to prepare for this? What parts do I need to do this effectively? New BOV? PCV?

Thanks for the help

TurboIIRyan

bump,

please help.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The Haynes manual has a great schematic of the vacuum system. Taking a look, you can easily tell that most of it can be removed. You need the vacuum line to the FPR, and to the oil injectors if you leave them (which you should). You need one to the pressure sensor, and you might as well leave the crankcase vent to avoid spraying your engine bay with oil all the time. You should also leave the one to the injector bleeds. That's off the top of my head, so I might be forgetting something.

NZConvertible

I'm preparing a how-to for when I get around to doing mine. I've done a bunch of research so I know what I'm doing (it's called planning ahead ), so this might help you.

The only line from the vac spider that you need to keep is for the FPR, which runs from the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM to the FPR.

If you're keeping the oil injection you need to keep the line that goes to the back of the UIM. You should definitely keep the fuel injector air bleed line (lines?) that goes to the same place.

You'll need to run all new fuel lines from the fuel filter to the primary rail and from the return line to the secondary rail (don't get them mixed up). Use only high-pressre EFI hose and new clamps.

The charcoal canister and purge valve can be removed. The easiest way to deal with the two PCV connections on the motor is you run two hoses from them to underneath the car and just zip-tie them to something. They must remain open-vented.

When I do this I'm going to retain the twin-scroll system. If you do that you need to plumb the solenoid and check valve into the the line, making sure they're both oriented the correct way as per the schematic in the FSM. If you ditch the twin-scroll system you must either remove the flap from the manifold or leave the actuator in place to hold the flap open.

I'm also going to retain the hot-start assist system, which means keeping the solenoid in the FPR line. I'm going to mount the two solenoids together on the firewall or something. I'll figure that out soon. This is completely optional, but don't complain if you have stating/ilding problems when the engine's hot.

My advice is to study the EFI chapter of the FSM so you understand what you're doing. You shouldn't rip anything off your car unless you know what it is and are sure you don't need it.

Here's an edited version of the vacuum schematic, showing what you'll be left with.



Hope that helps.