My FC will not idle. It is a 89 S5 all stock electronics. Engine is rebuilt with less than 4k on it. It had timing issues, but I replaced the mis matched hub and pulley with a racing beat under drive and set timing to 0*BTDC at idle with inital set coupler installed. Car seemed to be running better set TPS to 1VDC at idle and car ran great for 40 minutes then at a light it died on me and has not held an idle since. After I checked the TPS again and it passed all FSM tests then it decided to not pass some then another time it passed everything. Suspecting it was a failing TPS I replaced it today with a "Working" one I bought. Used THIS THREAD to set my TPS. TPS passes all FSM tests, but the car refuses to idle. The narrow band AFR gauge shows no fuel reading at all at idle. The car has never been in open loop at idle as it's supposed to be it's either fully rich when it will idle on it's own of off the map cat glowing lean when it won't idle on its own and I have to keep it running at 2k via my foot. HELP I have no engine codes. I have cleaned all my grounds and replaced old ground wires with new ones. I don't know what else can be going on here. Compression is great.

 

Somewhere in all that I saw "cat glowing". Glowing cats means clogged cats. Replace with a plain straight pipe.

 

Are you sure the timing is right? Line up the main pulley at TDC, take the cover off the CAS and snap a pic.

Also, if you haven't ruled out vacuum leaks, start the car and spray carb cleaner around the manifolds with the engine running. If it speeds up, you have a vacuum leak.

 

Cat glowing is from running too lean. Its not clogged. It's a near new high flow cat. I live in Cali, straight pipes get you pulled over and huge tickets. Car has a corksport header and cat-back already.

 

Cat glowing could be clogged, or lean, or bad timing. I assumed clogged based on your description
"it's either fully rich when it will idle on it's own of off the map cat glowing lean when it won't idle on its own"

Yeah...

 

I guess proper sentence structure, and some commas would have helped. My bad...

 

The timing is good enough. I'm going to say you have a big fac leak, or you're not getting fuel at idle speed. I'm leaning more towards the fac leak because the car starts and runs on the primary injectors when held at 2k rpm.

Check all your intake hoses, couplings, and vac lines. If you can, grab a copy of the FSM and test the AFM for proper operation, or just try swapping it.

If the car ran great for a while, then started having issues, something popped off or broke. It's not a matter of improper installation.

 

Vacuum leak most likely as others have stated. That's usually the main cause. Un-metered air sucks. I'm assuming it's a T2 (as shown in sig pic)? The TID is a good culprit. I'd start there. Pull it off and inspect for cracks. A lot of times it won't be cracked, but the plastic is so hard that it seals poorly on the AFM and turbo.

 

If its a turbo, check the hose going from the charge pipe to the IAC valve. It likes to pop off under boost.

 

It's NA. It had a T2 hood on it when I bought it...

 

i'd think vacuum leak too, this is dumb, but did you check both hoses on the intake pipe? they are easy to knock off, and since its on the bottom, you don't see it... i've totally done that, more than once!

 

Yup checked all the hoses. It exhibits all the symptoms of a vacuum leak, but I cant find one anywhere. I managed to get out and keep it running by hand, but soaking every gasket point and every hose showed no changes what so ever. I swapped in an extra ECU N350 I had and that did nothing. Tested the AFM and it is perfect according to FSM standards... I wish I had a high enough cliff to drive this thing off of.

http://youtu.be/q_pdlsuDkLE

 

this one time [band camp] i had one where the air pump came apart, and the shrapnel jammed the ACV so that it had a HUGE vacuum leak, but it was all internal. after rebuilding the carb twice, i made a gasket with no holes for the acv, and viola! it was perfect. so then i had to find another air pump, and de-shrapnel teh acv [/band camp]

 

Took it to Lucky 7 today. After checking all my electronics were okay they turned the fuel pressure up to 80 psi and it started to idle. They assumed that Atkins ported the **** out of it and that I need at least some bigger injectors to keep up. Suggested I can make up for it with a SAFC and larger injectors, or doing it the right way and going Haltech. They turned the idle up to 1500 RPM so I could make it home. It was still super lean and lopy at idle, but it was way more drive-able and wasn't stalling on me. On my drive home I got the bright idea that since the car sat for so long maybe the fuel filter went bad, but I wasn't having fuel issues up high -it's still pig rich- which lead me to the conclusion that it may be a clogged injector or two. I stopped into Vatozone bought a can of Seafoam then pored it into my half a tank of gas. 4 blocks later it was idling perfectly. I pulled over turned down the idle and drove it home. It was either a clogged or stuck primary injector. It explains how once the secondaries came on it drove fine(once the secondaries come on the primaries cut to 50%). So, there's that... It's still too slow for a street port though. I miss my FB LOL

 

Research doing a 6 port turbo setup. You'll like the car much better then.

You can also wake it up with a set of miata gears in your FC trans housing. Or a diff swap to a shorter ring & pinion.

 

that's cause its 500lbs heavier!

i was gonna say, throw the weber on it! you could make as much as 187rwhp

 

190 rwhp Weber already sold. I should have kept it... So this morning it started doing it again. Replaced the fuel filter and issue remains. I've decided it's either an injector or the harness to the injector. I'm losing my mind and pocket book over this POS...

 

Another possibility is a bad fuel pump.

 

not with an FC engine....

 

My FB did 190rwhp on a 6 port. Come in mang, you know this.

 

I installed my wideband. Still on and off. One minute the car will idle fine the next it's 19:1 AFR's and wont idle without my foot on the throttle. Today I took off the intake manifold. All 4 injectors are between 15.0-15.2 ohms. I did find one weird result. With the key set to ON. I get 12v on one wire on each injector and nothing on the other. On the secondaries. I get 12v on all 4 wires. Is it supposed to be this way?

Also applying 12V to all injectors resulted in a clear click and an open injector. I'm at a loss here.

 

If you measured the voltage at the ECU plug w/key to on the light Green wires (all four of them) will have battery voltage (plug must be secured to the injector and the wires in the plug must not be pulled back in the plug causing a faulty connection). The Black/Yellow wires at the injector plugs will all have battey voltage w/key to on as well.

 

No. I measured at the injector plug with the plug pulled off the injector.

 

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i just had to laugh at your sig
you do realise heath ledger's dad,, kim,,was the original owner of rotormotion,, the big rotor shop where i came from
-irony-
RIP heath ledger

 

Back on topic. replaced primary injectors with known good working injectors I took from my friends car, and the problem persists.