I was just checking my engine outside again and discovered this spot near the exhaust port on the rear rotor housing was leaking.





In the picture its the hole to the right of the stud sticking out above it.

The front housing seems to be weak in that same spot but there's no hole-yet.

1)What's this black sealed hole for?
2)Is this break normal, is it fixable? 3)Is this housing garbage now?

I also tried pushing the apex seal down expecting it to push in and it to spring back up.

1) Are my apex seals stuck?

Rotary >Pistons

 

Just trying to get more info so I know if I'm wasting my time to try running this engine.

If not I'll be rebuilding it using both my blocks.

Rotary >Pistons

 

i don't see anything wrong.

the ports are for EGR and air injection from the ACV, they're normally clogged with carbon on older engines.

 

So that's just carbon in the holes then.

As far as the apex seals not feeling like they have a spring to them, is that normal or should they push in fairly easy?

If they should spring back I'm guessing its due to carbon so they're stuck , I'll use zoom cleaner or something similar to clean the carbon out if I decide to run it.

Rotary >Pistons

 

That's how carbonized it looks inside.

The apex seals look clean, the rotors look full of carbon.



Rotary >Pistons

 

You had compression on all 6 faces in your other thread. Exactly how much compression is unknown, but there aren't any signs of a blown/stuck seal. Pretty much any engine is going to have carbon unless it's constantly running a water auxiliary injection.

 

the seals are a little difficult to push in, yes they should spring back out.

as for the rest, looks like a typical 100k mile engine.

 

I'm likely going to compression test it and run the engine after I get the end play issue fixed.

I'm hoping it gets at least 95psi

Rotary >Pistons

 

Looks like ****, just rebuild it while its already right in front of your face.

 

Lol I love your comment, have you built one before?

I'm leaning more and more towards doing a rebuild so I know its the best it can be.

Rotary >Pistons

 

My dad showed me how wankels work when he rebuilt one when i was 14? 15? By then i was already big into dirt bikes, atvs, racing go-karts and what not so i understood the importance of specs specs specs!! I rebuilt and ported a 12A when i was 17? but had to sell it before i could ever run it, i did find out it ran after someone else bought it off me!

You got the engine right there, do you really want to go through all the effort of installing it just for it to possibly pop shortly down the road? Then have to pull it out and rebuild it? Seems like a gamble considering its certainly not a low miles engine.

There is some very good videos you can watch to show you how to properly inspect each part to find out how usable everything is. I had the OLD atkins rotary rebuild tape, god was that boring but surely most helpful.

Crack open the block, make templates on cardboard or something to place each part on so you know exactly what spot it came out the motor. Clean the living **** out of all the parts, then break out the measuring tools and find out whats still in spec/ worth using. From there you will have a good understanding of what its going to cost you in parts to assemble it again.

Do it right or do it twice. I have always done it twice because im an idiot, dont be me.

 

Yea I still need tools to get everything apart, mainly the big 54mm/ 2-1/8" socket to take the engine apart and something to stop the flywheel with and I need many other tools as i only have your basic tools.

My main problem other than tools is workspace.

I'd have to convince my mom and her bf to let me do it downstairs somewhere in the basement, which is fully carpeted.

Rotary >Pistons

 

The thing I hate about rebuilds is they're expensive. From what I see they're 500$ for the most basic kits which don't include any near bearings or side seals, etc. Then they jump up around 1k and include those things. That's if you're doing it yourself.

About the carpet, just put plastic garbage bags down in your area.

My girlfriends moms boyfriend has been a heavy-duty mechanic for well over a decade and when he rebuilt his first engine, albeit an old V8 when he was in the army, he said it cost him thousands in tools alone just to do the job properly. After reading RotaryEvolution post in another thread about the tools needed to complete a rotary rebuild I would just get it done professionally.

 

Either way built myself or by someone else its going to be rough either way since my budget sucks.

I was considering sourcing most of the rebuild parts myself (since i can do it over time), and to reduce cost to the builder to labor.

If rotaryresurrection or anyone else would rebuild it for labor etc (me providing rebuild kit; apex seals etc).

Basically I'm on a limited budget, I will get this project done , it'll just take a while.

Its nearly impossible for me to save $1300, so I can slowly accumulate the parts I need and more easily afford a rebuild.

Rotary >Pistons

 

a hammer and chisel will work to take the rear nut off but to put it on you need the proper tools, or at least a good 1/2" pneumatic impact gun and the large socket. the nut will be pretty much toast by the time you get it off.

 

I hope I figure out something soon, as I'm at a standstill.

If I send it out for rebuild they want a short block, if I take it apart I'll likely need to do it all on my own unless a builder will make an exception.

I have two blocks so obviously I don't want to send both , I'd like to check both and get the best usable parts.

I probably can't do it at my house because mom/her bf have no garage and don't want me making a mess.

Maybe rent a storage unit for a month and build it there? Just a thought.

Rotary >Pistons

 

steam clean it.

 

Never heard of that being done to clean an engine

Rotary >Pistons

 

then u r missing out big time

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...thread-949720/

 

The real question is , is this engine worth installing?

I've yet to compression test it

Rotary >Pistons

 

if it's got 3 piece original seals now is the best time to refresh it.

 

what exactly was it supposed to be leaking?

 

Probably does have original seals, what makes the 3 piece seals bad?

The problem is if I refresh it, it may take awhile because of my budget. So no matter what route I take there's a big drawback

What the leak was from what I was told is a port for the emissions acv/egr that's just clogged with carbon.

Rotary >Pistons

 

most turbo engines rarely lived past 135k miles, mainly because the seals are fairly well worn by that point. that engine looks like it's on its last legs.

 

Yea you're probably right.

Do any buildersc(including you) do builds for just labor charges if the person provides everything needed?

Reason I ask is because it'd be easier for me to do it that way.

Rotary >Pistons