this is kinda weird?...tps? alternator? fuel filter?
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this is kinda weird?...tps? alternator? fuel filter?
Ok, so the car is an 87 na. It runs and idles fine and revs up till redline even better, BUT, when turned off then quickly after (like 5-10 minutes later) turned back on it idles crappy, fluctuating from 500-750rpm, while is doing this the volt meter reads 12volts. Now, after you rev then engine a couple of times not past 3k while driving on a gear, the idle will fix, and the volt meter will read the normal 15-16volts.
Is this a faulty tps?, is it a tps in need of adjustment?, is it a bad alternator...belt? is it vacuum?
Oh!, almost forgot, now that im here. When the engine is rotating between 1500-1000 rpm, it sounds really really bad...no backfire but a lot of misfire and shaking, after it starts idling it's fine but on cold starts while the engine is returning back to idle it will go from 3k, then a couple of seconds later 1500 and then the shaking begins until it idles....and on one more not the car misfires like crazy while decelaration.
i know....but at least it revs up fine
Is this a faulty tps?, is it a tps in need of adjustment?, is it a bad alternator...belt? is it vacuum?
Oh!, almost forgot, now that im here. When the engine is rotating between 1500-1000 rpm, it sounds really really bad...no backfire but a lot of misfire and shaking, after it starts idling it's fine but on cold starts while the engine is returning back to idle it will go from 3k, then a couple of seconds later 1500 and then the shaking begins until it idles....and on one more not the car misfires like crazy while decelaration.
i know....but at least it revs up fine
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Sounds like you may have a combination of things going wrong. Things to do: 1) Check timing,sounds like you might need a little adjustment. 2) Check your plugs, might be fouled up. 3) Check deceleration control system or misfiring while decel. might be due to clogged converters. 4) 100% certain in regard to the fluctuation idle is due to the TPS being out of adjustment. You will need a two bulb test lamp for that little 5 minute job. I made my own for less than 10 bucks. Little saudering skills needed though. It hooks up to the three prong green connection near the air filter. Let me know if you need more help with this. I can run you through it step by step or point you in the right direction in the FSm.Check the plugs Hope this helps.
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Damn....thanks a lot man, yeah I may need help to check the tps, so if you can send me directions or a link for a step by step process will be awesome. this is my email bactereated@aol.com , whenever you can man do me that favor. Thanks again.
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Drifter....
I'll come up with a write up on how to make that test lamp, what steps and what supplies to use. You will need a sauder kit however. Send it to you sometime tomorrow. Don't forget to check all the basics buddy.
Later
I'll come up with a write up on how to make that test lamp, what steps and what supplies to use. You will need a sauder kit however. Send it to you sometime tomorrow. Don't forget to check all the basics buddy.
Later
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Don't know how to thank you man, today I went to put gas and when I turned the car back on it started idling really low, i got scared I thought it was going to die, but as soon as I reved it the idle went back to it's normal sputtering lol.
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#10
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Well you can if you like hard starts and irratic performance, as well as a lot of misfire and shaking....
I know you are in FL so it probably doesn't affect you like it does us but you should have it plugged up..
I know you are in FL so it probably doesn't affect you like it does us but you should have it plugged up..
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The car only acts strange when the battery voltage shows 12v. That is what I got out of the first post.
A low battery/output voltage to the ECU WILL cause a car to act up a bit.
I'd find out first just why the alternator isn't putting out approx 13.5 at idle, then go from there is that does not remedy the problems mentioned.
A low battery/output voltage to the ECU WILL cause a car to act up a bit.
I'd find out first just why the alternator isn't putting out approx 13.5 at idle, then go from there is that does not remedy the problems mentioned.
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Yeah.......that's what I was noticing most, I'm gonna take the alt. on sunday and get it checked to see how much is pumping. But the thing is that the battery has never died on me and it only does this at idle when it has been warmed up and driven for a while.
I think the alt is getting hot and it's not charging the way it's supposed to. That's the only sympton I've noticed. When the car is has just reached a normal operating temperature and you turn it off, then turn it back on, it wont fluctuate at idle, BUT, if it has been driven for a while (enough for the alt to reach high temperatures), and then turned off and on, at that point the idle will fluctuate and the volt gauge will read 12, the slowly creep back up to 14-15 at idle.
I think the alt is getting hot and it's not charging the way it's supposed to. That's the only sympton I've noticed. When the car is has just reached a normal operating temperature and you turn it off, then turn it back on, it wont fluctuate at idle, BUT, if it has been driven for a while (enough for the alt to reach high temperatures), and then turned off and on, at that point the idle will fluctuate and the volt gauge will read 12, the slowly creep back up to 14-15 at idle.
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