Key on IGNT, dash lights come on, gauges dont work...
10-05-05, 08:09 PM
#27
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thanks for all the suggestions though...
another thing....When i wired the alternator (as per the instructions) i had to run one wire to constant battery power, the other wire to the white/black wire IIRC, but there was one more wire that the instructions didnt specify which was i think the black/white one...what should i do with this wire? ground?
another thing....When i wired the alternator (as per the instructions) i had to run one wire to constant battery power, the other wire to the white/black wire IIRC, but there was one more wire that the instructions didnt specify which was i think the black/white one...what should i do with this wire? ground?
10-05-05, 08:30 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by WannaSeeMyWankel
thanks for all the suggestions though...
another thing....When i wired the alternator (as per the instructions) i had to run one wire to constant battery power, the other wire to the white/black wire IIRC, but there was one more wire that the instructions didnt specify which was i think the black/white one...what should i do with this wire? ground?
another thing....When i wired the alternator (as per the instructions) i had to run one wire to constant battery power, the other wire to the white/black wire IIRC, but there was one more wire that the instructions didnt specify which was i think the black/white one...what should i do with this wire? ground?
I goofed on an above post. The idiot lights are supplied power by the METER fuse and the clock is supplied by the CIGAR fuse.
Headlights ....hard to say. The fuse in the engine bay has to be there. I figure your harness to the light switch is kaput....maybe. I don't have lighting problems in my past.
I'd go to the headlight relay up front of the radiator. I'd find that relay. Its plug has the following wire colors: two red wires, a red/green wire, and a white/blue wire. I'd leave the connector on the relay and jumper a ground wire to the back of the white/blue wire and see if the lights come on. They should. Your just putting a ground on the relay to pull it in, just like when you turn the **** in the cluster to ON. IF the lights come on, then check out the light switch in the cluster. Don't ground any other wires in that headlight relay. Just the white/blue one. Remember, leave the connector on the relay and just back probe the white/green wire with a grounded wire.
10-06-05, 03:37 PM
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ok....i jumpered the ground wire to the white/blue wire and i got the same result as when i turn the key to ON. No headlights, dash lights come on, and a click sound under the dash....by the steering column
10-06-05, 10:02 PM
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The relay works if it clicked. But the lights did not come on which is ODD. You supplied the ground for the relay, and there was already 12v at the relay coil, to pull the relay in, which it did.
But that same 12v that was there for the relay coil to pull in, is also used to power the lights. When the contacts in the relay pull in, that 12v goes across the contacts and goes to the headlights. Well, not exactly.
After the 12v goes across the contacts it first goes to the Dimmer Relay and from there on to the headlights. The Dimmer Relay does NOT have to pull in for the lights to work. It'll make the low beams come on without being pulled in.
So.....it's possible the contacts in the Dimmer RElay are kaput............or the contacts in the Headlight Relay are kaput..............or the headlight filiments are kaput.
The Dimmer Relay is the one with five wires in it. One Red/white ....another Red/Green.......yet another Red/Green.......another Red/Black and one wire White.
If I had a meter I'd do the jumper job like you did before on the Headlight Relay, and then I'd go to the Dimmer RElay and back probe its Red/Green wires to see if they have 12v when the Headlight Relay has a ground put on the White/Blue wire, like you did before.
It'd be helpful if you had someone turn the headlights to ON and at the same time you being at the Headlight Relay to hear it click or NOT click as the headlights were turned on/off. If the Headlight Relay clicks, then I'd suspect the Dimmer Relay and check the Red/Green wires on that relay for 12v when the lights are in the ON position..
It sounds kinda like the headlight switch is broken somehow. Or the harness/plug to the headlight switch is damaged somehow.
Then again, the headlight should have come on when you did that jumper job like you did. That seems to be a seperate problem from the dash lights coming on. Oh. Did you answer the question about what is mean by the dash lights? Not the idiot lights. Right. You mean the lights for the gauge cluster. 'Right?
But that same 12v that was there for the relay coil to pull in, is also used to power the lights. When the contacts in the relay pull in, that 12v goes across the contacts and goes to the headlights. Well, not exactly.
After the 12v goes across the contacts it first goes to the Dimmer Relay and from there on to the headlights. The Dimmer Relay does NOT have to pull in for the lights to work. It'll make the low beams come on without being pulled in.
So.....it's possible the contacts in the Dimmer RElay are kaput............or the contacts in the Headlight Relay are kaput..............or the headlight filiments are kaput.
The Dimmer Relay is the one with five wires in it. One Red/white ....another Red/Green.......yet another Red/Green.......another Red/Black and one wire White.
If I had a meter I'd do the jumper job like you did before on the Headlight Relay, and then I'd go to the Dimmer RElay and back probe its Red/Green wires to see if they have 12v when the Headlight Relay has a ground put on the White/Blue wire, like you did before.
It'd be helpful if you had someone turn the headlights to ON and at the same time you being at the Headlight Relay to hear it click or NOT click as the headlights were turned on/off. If the Headlight Relay clicks, then I'd suspect the Dimmer Relay and check the Red/Green wires on that relay for 12v when the lights are in the ON position..
It sounds kinda like the headlight switch is broken somehow. Or the harness/plug to the headlight switch is damaged somehow.
Then again, the headlight should have come on when you did that jumper job like you did. That seems to be a seperate problem from the dash lights coming on. Oh. Did you answer the question about what is mean by the dash lights? Not the idiot lights. Right. You mean the lights for the gauge cluster. 'Right?
10-07-05, 05:54 AM
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when i turn the headlights on by the ****, the relay doesnt click
by dash lights i mean the gauge lighting, and the backlights for the heater controls, the idiot lights don't come on
i dont think it's another relay that is the problem...like i said, when i jumpered the headlight relay, the headlights didnt pop up, they didnt come on at all, but the dash lights came on as if i turned the key on
by dash lights i mean the gauge lighting, and the backlights for the heater controls, the idiot lights don't come on
i dont think it's another relay that is the problem...like i said, when i jumpered the headlight relay, the headlights didnt pop up, they didnt come on at all, but the dash lights came on as if i turned the key on
10-07-05, 08:06 AM
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Jumpering that relay would make the lights come on but not up/down.
The key being on or off should have nothing to do with the dash lights.
Turning the light sw to ON should put a ground on that relay that you put a ground wire to. For some reason that isn't happening. Either the light switch is kaput or the harness to the light switch is kaput. I don't see how this problem would be related to the engine swap and using the turbo emissions harness. I'm at a loss to explain the lighting problem.
If I had a meter on the wiring I could figure it out.
The key being on or off should have nothing to do with the dash lights.
Turning the light sw to ON should put a ground on that relay that you put a ground wire to. For some reason that isn't happening. Either the light switch is kaput or the harness to the light switch is kaput. I don't see how this problem would be related to the engine swap and using the turbo emissions harness. I'm at a loss to explain the lighting problem.
If I had a meter on the wiring I could figure it out.
10-07-05, 11:04 AM
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input...anyone suggest yet to check the light switch itself ..could of swore i read something about them frying itself or bad solder connections..and ignition switch too..i'd check it too .never said if the head lights would pop up but not illuminate..G luck ..
10-07-05, 03:48 PM
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how could both of the switches go at the same time and cause some odd problem like that? thanks for all the help guys but this doenst make sense...
10-07-05, 07:21 PM
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That's why you need to buy a digital meter. If you jumper a ground to the relay that you did earlier you could then go to the Dimmer Relay and see if the 12v is leaving the Headlight Relay to the Dimmer Relay.
It's the same with the other problem your having. You need a meter to see if when you turn the headlights on, whether or not a ground signal is getting to the HEADLIGHT Relay or not. It probably isn't since you don't hear it click when turning the light switch to ON.
P.S. If the headlights won't go up/down the problem is probably the switch or the harness going to the switch since you checked both the headlight fuse and retractor fuse in the engine bay. Or it could be the *low* filiment is blown on both headlights. And you can't check the HIGH since your headlight switch does not seem to be functional.
It's the same with the other problem your having. You need a meter to see if when you turn the headlights on, whether or not a ground signal is getting to the HEADLIGHT Relay or not. It probably isn't since you don't hear it click when turning the light switch to ON.
P.S. If the headlights won't go up/down the problem is probably the switch or the harness going to the switch since you checked both the headlight fuse and retractor fuse in the engine bay. Or it could be the *low* filiment is blown on both headlights. And you can't check the HIGH since your headlight switch does not seem to be functional.
Last edited by HAILERS; 10-07-05 at 07:24 PM.
10-07-05, 07:39 PM
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the low beam filaments are definately good....brand new bulbs
high beams dont work with the flash to pass feature
gotta check that relay.....which one is the dimmer relay?
high beams dont work with the flash to pass feature
gotta check that relay.....which one is the dimmer relay?
10-08-05, 05:00 PM
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in line # 39 you posted those three pics...I followed the directions in the middle pic and I got readings that jumped all over the place with the battery connected and not connected...
10-08-05, 07:44 PM
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Tell you what. Put things back together.
Put your meter on the positive battery post and the negative post. Put it on DCV and see if your battery reads 11-12vdc.
Now if that's good, then leave the negative lead on the battery ground or put it on a known ground point if the leads won't reach. And put the positive lead of the meter up the backside of the DIMMER RELAYs RED/GREEN wire, with the connector on the relay.
Turn the key to On and do that jumper job you did a few posts ago on the HEADLIGHT relay. Jumper a ground to the WL (WHITE/BLUE) wire like you did before and it will click just like last time.
When you hear the relay click, the meter if connected to the Green/REd wire of the Dimmer Relay, should read 11-12vdc.
Does it?
If the meter reads 11-12vdc when you do the above, then move your meter to RED/BLACK wire and see if it has 12vdc. If it does, then the headlight bulb is kaput or the connector is off the headlight bulb.
IF you have 12vddc on the Red/Green but not on the Red/Black, then the relays contacts are kaput.
Acutally, the key does not have to be to ON to do this. Won't hurt, won't help.
Put your meter on the positive battery post and the negative post. Put it on DCV and see if your battery reads 11-12vdc.
Now if that's good, then leave the negative lead on the battery ground or put it on a known ground point if the leads won't reach. And put the positive lead of the meter up the backside of the DIMMER RELAYs RED/GREEN wire, with the connector on the relay.
Turn the key to On and do that jumper job you did a few posts ago on the HEADLIGHT relay. Jumper a ground to the WL (WHITE/BLUE) wire like you did before and it will click just like last time.
When you hear the relay click, the meter if connected to the Green/REd wire of the Dimmer Relay, should read 11-12vdc.
Does it?
If the meter reads 11-12vdc when you do the above, then move your meter to RED/BLACK wire and see if it has 12vdc. If it does, then the headlight bulb is kaput or the connector is off the headlight bulb.
IF you have 12vddc on the Red/Green but not on the Red/Black, then the relays contacts are kaput.
Acutally, the key does not have to be to ON to do this. Won't hurt, won't help.
10-11-05, 04:52 PM
#43
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Battery is at 12.71v
when i jump the ground on the headlight relay, it clicks
i check the voltage at the red/green and it has about 2.30v
when i jump the ground on the headlight relay, it clicks
i check the voltage at the red/green and it has about 2.30v
10-11-05, 06:39 PM
#44
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Something is goofy. On that headlight relay where your doing the jumper to ground to pull the relay in, do this: Leave the connector on that relay and back probe either of the RED wires in that plug. Each should have 12vdc.
If they don't then the headlight relay in the engine bay is kaput or there is an open in the wire b/t the relay and the engine bay fuse box.
If you have 12v on the RED wire, then do your jumper job on that relay to pull it in, and then with your meter, check the R/G wire at THAT relay. It should show 12v. If it does not, then the relay is bad/kaput.
OR, if you had a piece of electrical wire with both ends stripped, you could pull the plug off the headlight relay and put one end of the wire where one of the Red wires is and the other end of that wire in the socket where the R/G wire is. The headlights should come on just doing that jumper job. That will work if you've proven the RED wire has 12v on it.
If they don't then the headlight relay in the engine bay is kaput or there is an open in the wire b/t the relay and the engine bay fuse box.
If you have 12v on the RED wire, then do your jumper job on that relay to pull it in, and then with your meter, check the R/G wire at THAT relay. It should show 12v. If it does not, then the relay is bad/kaput.
OR, if you had a piece of electrical wire with both ends stripped, you could pull the plug off the headlight relay and put one end of the wire where one of the Red wires is and the other end of that wire in the socket where the R/G wire is. The headlights should come on just doing that jumper job. That will work if you've proven the RED wire has 12v on it.
10-12-05, 08:50 AM
#45
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ok...with the relay jumpered...each of the red wires has 1.8v-2.5v
when i jumper the red to the red/green on the plus itself, the gauge lights come on inside the car, somethink clicks under the dash, and the headlights come on verrrrrrrry very dim...barely coming on....and none of the taillights or markers light up
also...with the key on, the ecu has no power at the ignt wire
when i jumper the red to the red/green on the plus itself, the gauge lights come on inside the car, somethink clicks under the dash, and the headlights come on verrrrrrrry very dim...barely coming on....and none of the taillights or markers light up
also...with the key on, the ecu has no power at the ignt wire
10-12-05, 07:32 PM
#47
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Hey. With the key OFF and the relays all connected up, back probe the two Red wires on the headlight relay one at a time and see what the voltage is. Make sure your meters negative lead is on a good ground, like the battery neg terminal or the alternator body and the positive lead is in the back of one of the red wires. It should read a full 12vdc. Does it? Can you do that in the next couple of hours.
Later on pull both plugs off your MAIN RELAY and do that jumper job you did earlier with the jumpere wire in one of the red wires and the other in the red/green. See if the headlights are a lot brighter.
This would be more fun if the car was in front of me. Not as much fun online. Part of the problem seems to be the headlight switch harness, but not the whole problem. More like something isn't connected up right.
All the harnesses the same year/series????
Later on pull both plugs off your MAIN RELAY and do that jumper job you did earlier with the jumpere wire in one of the red wires and the other in the red/green. See if the headlights are a lot brighter.
This would be more fun if the car was in front of me. Not as much fun online. Part of the problem seems to be the headlight switch harness, but not the whole problem. More like something isn't connected up right.
All the harnesses the same year/series????
10-13-05, 12:03 PM
#48
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Is the battery ground wire on the STARTERs long bolt on tight? At times it almost sounds like the battery is hooked up backwards, but that can't be, but maybe the negative wire is not connected to the starters long bolt very well and or that same negative cable isn't attached to the chassis just below the left strut tower very well.
10-13-05, 04:14 PM
#49
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MAIN RELAY:
key off...the two blue wires have power, black wire has ground
key on...all wires have power except ground wire, which is also good
key off...the two blue wires have power, black wire has ground
key on...all wires have power except ground wire, which is also good