I have the 13b NA is the $50 for a K&N filter worth it? I know on my other car I bought the FIPK and it is great. Just don't know how much it will help still using the factory airbox. (not rdy to go the homemade CAI yet)

And like many other my high beam headlights don't work. Can anyone explain a way to test the dimmer relay? I can't find out very much info about it or a way to test it and the switch in the FSM. I guess I could replace the relay, and then the turn/high beam switch after that.

Thanks,
Pete

 

drop in is prob. better cause all the heat will prob. drop power more than a gain,(cone filter) unless you do the custom cai. ive yet to do this also.

 

If you've opened up the exhaust, then I would say by god YES.

If you're keeping your car stock, just use a drop in. If you're planning on putting in a performance exhaust, stick the cone filter on it and make (or buy) a cold air box if you're really serious about it.

On my 84 SE (also 13b NA) I put replaced the cats with a straight pipe and gained a little power, not much. Later, I threw on a K&N cone filter, and it was like unleashing the beast in the car. Without the exhaust though, the filter wouldn't have done that much to the car, I don't think. Likewise the exhaust by itself didn't do to much, but both together is NICE.

 

It's worth it, cause 1) it comes with a million mile warranty, and 2) it's reusable.
By the time you've cleaned and reused it the 3rd time, you're already saving money over buying stock air filters.


-Ted

 

What Ted said. I put a drop in my car some 8 years ago. Bought it and a cleaning/re-oiling kit at the same time and haven't had to worry about air filters since.

 

anyone ever see the rubber surround for the paper filters completely melt into a pile of goo in the bottom of the airbox?

I have never seen anything like it, bit I guess i will use carb cleaner to try and get the liquid rubber cleaned up.

I have only had this car a week. It took me 1 second after working on it to realize the prev owner(s) were complete dumba@!#. R134A mixed with R12, plastic bags around the shifter instead of boot, no sealer on the shifter gasket. Looks like they never changed the air filter, burnt out HL and FL.

About $1000 in reparis so far, and since the dimmer relay seems to test fine looks like i am going to have to buy the $300 switch from mazdtatrix to get my highbeams to work.

 

http://www.wcnet.org/~vbkrolak/vkfolder/vinspeed.htm

For a Cold Air Box

 

to test the relay you should see around 2 ohms at the coils/common (the spades are marked). also only place you can get those relays are from Mazda. 45 bucks a piece.
Mine just went out, I'm thinking of just buying the standard relay from Kragen, and wiring in my own ****. No RX-7's at the junkyards where I live either.

 

I have searched through the archives, as well as normal posts. Seen plenty of people recommend fixes for S4.

FTP works fine, turn signals work fine, low beams work. High beams do not work, FTP with lights on does not work(according to manual pull high stalk back 2 times for FTP) I have removed the turn switch and took it apart, it seems to be fine, all the contacts are fine.

The dimmer relay, I have seen people suggest remove the relay bridge the red/white and the red/green. Only problem is I have 2 red/green both light the headlights, can't tell if one is highbeam and one is lowbeam. The FSM online is for a 89, i cannot find one for a 91 and evidently they are different, as my dimmer is 2nd from the center, the one in the center is the HL relay, also my cluster/switch looks nothing like the FSM from 89. I am going to go to the dealer and see if i can look at thiers hopefully this weekend, looking for a fix before then as i have to get it inspected in the next 2 days.

My relay has the following white, red/green, red/white, and red black

FRONT ^

W RW

RG RG RB

And is labeled H432

Any help?

Thanks.